Bart Hoedemaker
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Posts posted by Bart Hoedemaker
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More cilinders is a smoother running engine. Look for instance at BMW V12. But I guess it al depends on the purpose of the build. Like the V12 Merlin Airplane Engine ( Spitfire e.d ) is a rough running engine, but delivers massive torque.
I think the friction is irrelevant, maybe a loss of a few hp.
You can't say more cilinders is more power. Because the bore and stroke can variate.
You can have 4 liter V12 engines, and 11 liter V8 engines.
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I have to say, with all older cars, even if it's a standard motor, here in this climate they all run best with thicker oils. And climate here in NL, is about the same as in New York region.
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Yes, in this hobby, wife management is very important.I consider myself as something as an expert, since I've been married twice. If your wife says you have too much junk, you need to get some really large rubbermaid bins, and put your stuff in them. A wife will complain endlessly about a garage half full of stuff but not utter a peep about a garage completely full of large rubbermaid bins, especially if the bins are blue.
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Could put some more welds here GMAC.....
Just use Rhino liner or por15 for floors...
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sick build
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Yep, Rotary, less moving internal parts, than piston.
But if you want to go for a screaming piston engine, and top end power. It's 90% about the heads " breathing capacity " and 10% block part. Most important here is the short stroke and high compression ratio.
You also want a good fuel mixture, notice " stand off injectors " on F1...
The rest... all engine parts have to be lightened the most as possible.
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I think I need sunglasses.....
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The RB series is a totally different engine, than an american V8. The characteristics are totally different to.
V8 is all torque, and with more displacement comes more HP. Still the american V8 has bad HP to engine size, compared to Euro or Jap cars.
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Hahaha. Yeah that's why...
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Yeah, But there are many brands...
Mainly here, it are all roots superchargers available here, and I hate that lol.
Yes, I would prefer to drop a V8 RWD conversion in my calibra, but the gas prices are insane.
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haha why is the recommendation to everyone just swap in a V8?? =P I understand that power to cost is something you always are looking at, but like I've said before, if I wanted a V8 I'd just buy an american muscle car XD.
Though I admit having a V8 in a chasis as light as a 240Z would be nice =P I'd rather stick with a Chevy Nova to be honest though =P
If you go for a small block yes.
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Get a new fuelpump and filter.
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Just speculation, but I have heard others boosting to 15 psi (ruffly 2 atmospheres) that a supercharger will drain 40 hp at peak, but there are alot of variables. As for the wheel on the sup, i thing you should refer to how much air is being pushed (cfm) now by it and use it for a starting point, reduce it from there.... as for injectors, you can try over pressurizing the ones you have for more flow, I would use the basic rule of thumb of 1cc flow of an injector to 1hp, use that to gauge if you need to add ONE BIG injector to the mix of all the rest you have. I assume you would be using a stand alone ecu. Why wouldn't you start an exotic swap like this with a C20XE. duel overhead cam = more power. Are you using a centrifugal supercharger with intercooler?
Not a roots type, but a screw.
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Okay, sorry!
The injectors are available enough here. It's the supercharger that aint. There is a Ford mustang garage in the village here, so I can ask what superchargers they have for me. I could go with the 16V, but since the head is bigger, a V8 supercharger is quite big though, and have to fit it, in the engine bay of the calibra. 16V engines, are not so expensive either. But I love the characteristics of the 8 Valve.
I've calculated that my Calibra needs 365 HP roughyl, to reach 300 km/h, with a 6 Speed gearbox, from LET engine. But I want about 500 hp from the crank.
Thnx tyler and mag for the advice so far!
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Anyone can give me some advice?
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He guys,
I'm thinking with the idea of putting a V8 type supercharger on my GM C20NE, see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C20NE
Put for that, I will need to change the pulley of the supercharger, it's to big drive belt. It's going to be in a Vauxhall Calibra.
You guys think this will work? I wan't to give it a few Bars of pressure though
. Thinking of C20LET pistons, or aftermarket, with 1.5 or 2mm metal decompressionplate maybe?Any idea's or advice from the petrolheads here, would be great!
Other things are bothering me:
- How much HP does a V8 type supercharger needs, to be driven?
- Since I need to change the supercharger pulley for a smaller one, how can I calculate, the ratio/ boost pressure it will give?
- What size injectors would be needed?, Do I need an extra rail of injectors?
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the engine he's shown are the C20XE model. They aren't ecotechs, and they were never in the states. (hurray google)
Really? I thought the Calibra was produced in the states right?
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Yes, they are NOT ecotechs by any!
The Calibra uses this engine to.
The engine design of the C20XE has been there since the 80's. It set the market for all 16V designs.
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Isn't it easier than to search for a second hand RB25DETT/RB26DETT ?
Or if you want to keep the L serie block, I believe there are some DOHC heads for it, but $$$
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There are a few non racing type oils that still have the zinc/phosphorous additives including some diesel oils, some Amsoil synthetics too. Its my understanding that such additives may not be present in the latest standard oils because of environmental concerns and cat converter damage.
So, contary to what the article says, the latest standard may not always be best. Will have to read the article again but basically all he seems to be saying is to match the oil viscosity to the cars use.
Exactly! When I build an engine for a customer, I always pick the oil that suits best for usage conditions. But all engine builders do I guess. But from experience companies that rebuild engines, may not be specialised on tuning, and companies that do both mostly have greater knowledge of oil choices.
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Um.. I dunno about that statement..
a molten pool is a molten pool... I dont believe a MIG vs. TIG will "cool" faster or slower.
I can understand that a MIG introduces a lot of heat in a larger area, while the TIG introduces the same heat in a smaller area.. but a larger surface dissipating the heat will cool faster then a smaller area.
I think its the filler metal you use on the weld that determines how soft or hard the bead is.
*from my understanding*
I think you meaned just the other way around....
Change MIG/TIG in your story... -
True! But pertaining to his dilemma it appears to be the better choice. IMHO
Yup, now it's in, better try to get it running.
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Yes, I know it's winter. From my book I read ( It's dutch ):
Bv een motorolie 15W40.
Bij temperaturen onder 0°C zal de viscositeit overeenkomen met de viscositeitklasse SAE 15W en voor temperaturen boven 0°C zal de viscositeit overeenkomen met die van de viscositeitklasse SAE 40.
Saying the low number is the thickness when the engine is cold, and high number at operating temperature.
That's why street driven/track cars need thicker oils like Castrol 10W60 or MPM 10W50.
I have never problems with engine oils so far. Maye I read it a bit different than you guys, but I understand.
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Every time I see that dang car I want to get another 280ZX. Hate.
Yeah, that white 280zx looks stunning
IMHO
More Cylinders, More Power?
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
I think there is no clear answer to this topic title. But in general I would say yes. You can look @ Formula 1, who's trying to get the maximum out of the block. From V12 to V8 now, the have lost hp and torque, because have to do with less cylinders.