lcbusa1300

Friday I was making the 1 1/2 hour trip home from college. About 40 minutes into the trip, it died going down the interstate. No missing, or sputtering, it just completely shut off. While rolling i pushed the clutch in and tried to start it but it would crank but wouldn't start, so I eased over onto the shoulder. I could smell a plastic burning smell. I popped the hood and looked to find my battery had fallen over and the post was touching the valve cover. So I repositioned the battery ( is now secured to its spot ) and it started right up. Thought maybe it had caused an electrical issue. Problem solved. I drove it the rest of the way home and around town all weekend with no issues. Well it was time to make the trip back to school this morning for finals. 40 minutes into the trip, it did the same thing, but the battery was still in its spot. I had someone take me to my final, and I came to get the car afterwards. It started right up and made the rest of the trip just fine. I've been reading since this morning and can't find anyone with a similar problem. Everyone's symptoms include the car misfiring or not running properly. Mine runs great but something is completely shutting the car off after about 40 minutes. Once cooled down it'll start and run great for a while. Anyone have any ideas? BTW, the car is a 78 280z fuel injected 5 speed with N47 head. I installed a MSA header and exhaust a few weeks ago, deleted the EGR, and removed the heat shield while I was there.

I'm not blaming y'all for anything. Y'all were in fact very helpful. Thanks. I had the manifolds off changing the manifold gasket. I know its unnecessary to disassemble all that just to change a gasket, but I did it later. When removing the exhaust manifold, it pretty much crumbled. So I had to order a header and exhaust from MSA. So while waiting I decided to strip down the intake manifold, hot tank it, and paint it due to the amount of carbon that was caked in it. Well when going back together I realized the header I ordered didn't have an EGR port, so I didn't have a choice but to delete it. I found a lot of posts saying "yeah it can be safely deleted", but none saying how. So referring to pics of deleted EGR, it looked pretty straight forward. Long story short... I cleaned the filthy plugs, put em back in, and took it down the road. It ran awful for about 2 miles then straightened out. It's ran great since. I'm guessing it was just flooded. My apologies on the late update, been busy with school.

Yes I screwed up. I figured that out when I started the car. I'm not trying to justify what I did. I know i didn't delete them properly. That's why I'm on here trying to find out the correct way. I thought someone could tell me what I did wrong since "people have been doing what i did since emissions were introduced." I'm in a bit of a quick fix mode because this is my daily and it's stuck at a friends house a state away.

Let me rephrase then. I know what their purposes are, but thought it was harmless to "PROPERLY" delete them. How is that contradicting? For bluedestiny, who actually had something productive to add, the car is stuck a state away at a friends house. I'm headed back over there today, Ill try to get some pics up.

Alright. I mean I know what they are and how they work, but I thought it was common to simply delete them with no consequence. So should they have not been deleted? Because the MSA header I just put on doesn't even have an EGR port. I just read the symptoms of a bad coolant temp sensor and that fits my symptoms perfectly, but it was never unplugged or tampered with during this process. I just don't see what could cause this. It ran perfectly before I took the manifolds off to change the manifold gasket.

Recently picked up a 78 Z and trying to clean up the bay a little. I stripped down the intake manifold and had it hot tanked. From what I've read, deleting the EGR and evap canister has no consequences, so I did away with them. Thought she would run like a champ with all the freshening up, but no. I've got it all back together and it's running terrible. Running rich and black smoking like a chimney. I pulled the new plugs out and they are caked in carbon that quick. So i'm thinking I did something wrong with deleting the EGR and canister delete. Can someone confirm what i've done is right/wrong? Here's what i'm not sure of... 1) The vacuum line that went from the distributor to the canister, I rerouted to the manifold. 2) I capped off the line from the throttle body when deleting the EGR. Is that correct? 3) I think I have the TPS set properly but if not could that cause it to run that rich and foul plugs? 4) Also, it sat without the manifolds on for two weeks, maybe some moisture got in there. And also some pb blaster got in there from trying to removed some broken exhaust studs. 5) I don't think this would effect it, but I tried to start it with the the send/return fuel lines accidentally mixed up. Could that have possibly flooded it? Thanks

Thanks for the advice. Didn't have access to a welder so I ended up grinding a flat surface on each side and breaking it lose with bigger vice grips. Once broke I could immediately turn it by hand. Got lucky I guess.

Replacing the manifold gasket and head of the middle bolt broke, so there's about an inch sticking out. I've been periodically putting pb blaster and tapping on it, but vice grips aren't gonna work. I would imagine itd be easier with that much bolt still stickin out rather than being flush, so I don't want to screw up. Any suggestion?