grillhands
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Posts posted by grillhands
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Could these be used on a stock setup?
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Got bored so I wanted to do something cool lol. It's a wynjammer centrifugal charger. I can also still shut the hood! A lot of cutting, measuring and cursing lol.
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I have the roll pin. I ordered 2 by accident if you need it. My one concern is the 400-500hp on a t5. Maybe a WCt5 or a t56 can handle that but also think about the rear end. From what I read the r180 is good for stock v8 but for more powerful builds you might want to get the r200. Also, if I remember correctly, i used the slave off a 4.3 s10 because it come with a bleeder valve and the camaro did not. It's the same size and everything. I've been using it on my t56 for 4 months with no problems.
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I would get a clutch that is well above what you think you'll put down to the wheels. You don't want to do the job twice. Did you upgrade your clutch master cylinder?
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Make sure you disconnect your vac advance when setting intial timing. Are you using HEI ignition? Also, you may need to adjust your mixture screws. You have 3 types of timing: intial, vac, and mechanical. Total timing should be around 36-39 depending on setup. Total timing is mechanical+intial. Vac only comes in during cruising and goes to zero at full throttle. Check your spring weights as well in your distributor
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I'm pretty sure you can use the stock datsun mounts with little modification. It's written here somewhere.
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Like the title says. Should I remove the damper because the carb pump puts out 9psi max. Do you guys leave it in? I couldn't find anything on my search or in the jtr manual. Thanks
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There is an actual RB sub forum on this site that will give you good information. You posted in the V6 section.
http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/13076-so-you-wanna-swap-an-rb-eng-here-ya-go/?fromsearch=1
Just a heads up. There have been many topics already discussed about various engine swaps. Search for what you are looking for and I guarantee it's been addressed.
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During the course of consuming my golden soda, I began to wonder how much down force weight is applied to the jtr mounts that hold the trans. My floors are about a year and half old and I know they'll be fine but Im just wondering what kind of force will the floors be subjected to with my 89 350 sbc with a t56 trans. Thanks.
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We still haven't seen how an S30 with an RB engine swapped into it will fair on this new market either.
A 2JZ or an S52 is bound to piss off a buncha salty jerks, but the RB is still Nissan. The only ones that will be offended at that point are the old guys who view anything other than bone stock is a travesty.
It'll be fun watching how the V8 swapped one does though.
The purists are funny people. I went to a datsun car show that had 3 categories. They were stock, modified, super modified. A lowered car with aftermarket rims was modified and having that with an exhaust put you in super modified. I can't imagine what a different engine would do to these guys lol.
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Ok here is an update. The 280zx cap fits perfectly on my 280z distributor. I drove it around and there was no damage on my rotor or cap. I will post pics when I get home. It appears the 280zx cap has a tab to keep it in place. My 280z cap from the store had no tab to keep it steady in place.
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I just looked online and Autozone has the 75-78 280z dis cap as JA944. The 79 280zx is JA940. My distributer is fairly new so I'm wondering if I got a 79 dis and when I order replacement parts they don't quite fit. Tomorrow I'll pick up a 79 cap and update my findings.
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I wanted to replace my cap because I saw a big gash on the side of it. When I pulled it off,I noticed the rotor was shaved down significantly on both ends. I replaced the cap and rotor using parts from Advanced Auto and that too did the same thing. Actually it was even worse. My 75 280z died in the middle of a busy road and fortunately I has some tools with me. I checked fuel pressure, which was good. I removed a spark plug and cranked it to see no spark. I removed the brand new cap and there was no rotor! It was actually wedged on the cap. I had to use some force to pull it out. How could this happen twice? Are they giving me the wrong part? Thanks in advance.
Matt
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There is a guy by me with a k24 in his 240sx. Looks pretty dam cool and those engines are everywhere.
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Dont be nice breaking in the engine. While the hone is still fresh you gotta drive it hard to set the rings. First 50 miles I do alot of engine braking. After that I change the oil and beat the crap out of it. My 1.8t was broken in like that. Once i hit 50 miles the engine saw full boost on a t3/t4 50 trim pushing 28lbs. She never puffed smoke for the 2 years I daily drove it.
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Lol. I saw that on Craigslist. They both look really nice. I told my buddy to jump on it but I guess he is too late.
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Lol.. I'm pretty sure you'll be the first. If you got the money you can make any engine fit in any vehicle.
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That's good to hear. Have you done any aggressive shifts?
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I had an issues with my msd on my old turbo civic. Turns out that having it mounted on the firewall without a cushion to absorb vibration rattled some components in there. I went back to stock distributer and the problem stopped occurring. Could that be the culprit? I don't know but worth a try.
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I like your racing shoes!
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400-500cc injectors for stock turbo at 14psi seems excessive. You can hit 250hp on stock injectors.
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Well said!
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I would think an oil cooler and a really efficient intercooler would help. Also MEOH spray for further cooling. Perhaps coolingmist.com
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I had the same problem a few years back. It was my coolant temp sensor.
Swift springs (pair) - $85 shipped
in Parts for Sale
Posted
Thanks for the info. I got vogtland installed but it rides kinda hard for my taste. Or maybe because I'm closer to being 40 and I just want something a little easier on my internal organs lol