[Setting timing for bolt on turbo to N/A engine.]

This may be a dumb question but all the numbers are for before TDC, correct? How much are you asking for your msd setup?

[Setting timing for bolt on turbo to N/A engine.]

Thank you for the response. My 280z is an absolute dog. I can't keep up with a Geo Metro if I tried! How did your car drive with that setup? Did you have any issues with detonation?Also, did you leave your vacuum advance hooked up or did you plug the ports?

[Setting timing for bolt on turbo to N/A engine.]

Hello. I have a N42 block with a P79 head which apparently lowers my compression to 7.8:1 according to http://datsunzgarage.com/heads/ . Through my research I've found many people who did this conversion tend to lock the vacuum advance and set timing to 22-26 degrees advanced. I've also seen one or two people set theirs at 15-17. They all pretty much have stock turbos and front mounts. My question is where are they coming up with these numbers? I've just read a topic on here about detonation where Tony D and Gollum I believe but up some interesting information. With that being said I want to avoid detonation as much as possible. Currently I'm using the stock n/a efi with fmu, wideband and front mount. Megasquirt will eventually be had once I get more comfortable with the installation and tuning process.

 

Thanks,

 

Matt

[New S30 Shock and Spring Option]

How is the setup holding out? Do you have any more pictures?

[gland nut welded to strut tube]

Thanks guys!! I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet. I just bought a washer dryer set because my wife demanded it lol. That money was supposed to go to my coilovers and wheels but she put a big X on that.

[gland nut welded to strut tube]

 

Here's my baby with a broken leg lol.

[gland nut welded to strut tube]

[gland nut welded to strut tube]

Lol. Thanks guys for the help. Since we are the topic of red neck engineering I made a bandaid until I can get new tubes. I welded 4 small tack welds evenly spaced around the tube. Then I went to home depot and bought a 2 inch high density rubber plumbing cap. I drilled a hole through the center for the strut and t clamped the cap making sure the clamp was under the 4 welds. I took it on the worst road I know and hit some good size bumps. Got it home and jacked up the front and it didn't budge. It's memorial day weekend so I gotta have to roll up to barbeques lol.

[gland nut welded to strut tube]

This is one side. The other side is much worse. It's a long bead but I already grind it off

[gland nut welded to strut tube]

[gland nut welded to strut tube]

He welded the entire gland nut, threads and all. I already removed the driver side but when I got to the passenger side it was all welded. I'll post a pic

[gland nut welded to strut tube]

Previous owner did this for some reason. What are my options? Do I really need the gland nut?

[L28et Swap]

a 50trim works well with displacement up to 2.4L. If you plan on only running 10psi you should be fine. It s when you run more like mid 20s you'll notice the 50trim will run out of breath. You will also be creating more heat. I had a 46 trim on a 1.8t running 28 psi. It was fun but the 46 was under sized for the power I wanted. I could've got the same power at like 15 psi on a gt30. Remember hp doesn't snap rods the torque does.

[L28et Swap]

T3/T4 turbo is a vague description. What trim,AR and wheel do you plan on using? A 60 trim will flow much more than a 46 trim and depending on the AR, boost will come on at different rpm ranges. 10psi on a 46trim is no where near the horse power of a 10psi on a 60trim. You have to look at the flow charts to see what matches your setup.