iknowwhoyou_r

wow.. haven't been here for awhile and this thread is still going? you guys are too impatience. did you guys even read my post? if you follow what i did you would get same result... but you put in too much what others are saying (ie. acetone vs. mineral spirit, drying time, etc.) why use acetone when mineral spirit works? it's been researched many time and found this is the BEST for the job. why is it not hardening and yellowing? too thick. try thinning it down or wait til it dries then wet sand, let dry (from water) and re-apply. should be dry enough within 3-4 hrs. i just leave it overnight and work on it next day. again, READ MY POST if you want good results. that piece i did took me almost a week working OUTSIDE a garden area.

RUSToleaum says it all... it's made for rust. this is just a cheap way for those short on budget or should i say "poor man's paint" yes, thin it out with mineral spirits to almost "water" liquid. it can go over anything.. even painted stuff. just keep adding (rolling) more paint (then let dry, of course) until you can't see whats under it. i've heard some use spray gun and gets good result, though i have not tried it. not sure about putting clear coat on it, but did heard you can do it.

can't remember exactly but it's the finer grits, probably 400 and up regular lowe's sandpaper. you should work your way up to 1000 grit. that was just a sample i did on an old datsun 510 trunk. thanks guys... i'm starting that paint job soon and will do a write up along with pics.

yes wet sand after drying 2nd coat, fifth coat and last coat with fine grit

i know it's an old thread. just giving my inputs. i use: day one: day 2: day 3: day 4: day 5 and 6: hand buff once. imagine buffing it 3-4 times or with an electric buffer! i use this to buff in no details. anyone want to know detail, just ask. pics shows no justice.