vbgambini
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Posts posted by vbgambini
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I just looked at the FSM and it says when installing, just air bleed it first. Then when bleeding if spongy pedal to do it through the bleeders. Am I getting this wrong?
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Most of your questions are answered, with illustrations, in the Brake chapter of the FSM. People do get wrong parts from the reman companies though.
Don't forget to adjust the booster rod to fit the MC.
I looked at the manual and it seems very general on the bleeding area. Just said through the bleeder valves. But that is in the car Im assuming. So I guess I just have to do it through those 2 when bench bleeding.
I saw that the rod can be adjusted. Do I just turn it? How do you know when it is properly adjusted though?
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Pillar
Awesome tip. I still have my old master in the car, maybe I just didnt see it was fused to the MC. I hope it is still there. I dont remember anything falling off when taking it off the booster. It definitely was sitting flush when I was removing it. So I guess I got the right parts. Just have that issue with that partially stripped angled stud.
But what about the rectangular indentation that goes into the firewall? The new booster is seemingly larger than the OEM one?
One other question since you've helped me out so much so far lol. When bench bleeding the MC, first off is it really a necessity? Or can I just install it and bleed it on the car? If so, when I do it, I see there are 4 ports, 2 bleeder ports, and the ports on the bottom of the MC. Do I have to bleed all 4 ports or can I just through the 2 bleeder valves? thanks man.
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Wussup guys Im having an issue with my brakes. Ive been searching but cannot seem to find what I am looking for. Sorry if its a little long. Not sure if I posted in the right section. Help needed!
I have a 1978 280z. Went to take it out for a little drive around the block just to get it running and making sure everything still works. When I pulled out of the driveway when a few feet and my brakes were almost non existent. The pedal became very hard to push and barely stopping the car even when going 10mph. So I decided after researching that the master cylinder is probably going bad and mostly the brake booster needs to be replaced (Seemed like still original parts)
So I ordered a new master cylinder and brake booster from Black Dragon. Disassembled all the old parts. Mostly took out the brake booster, and left the master cylinder for now since it is still full of liquid.
Received my parts from black dragon this weekend. Here are my issues.
Black Dragon part numbers
#64-162-Z brake booster
#64-103 Master Cylinder
1. The old nuts that went on the old master to booster, 3 of them fit but the top one. The nut cant even be screwed in. It looks like they sent me a bad part. Threads on the stud looked stripped. And even at an angle. But all other 3 nuts screwed in.
2. The new master I received has only 2 stud holes when the old master had 4 is that normal? So I said what the hell I will try and make it work. Ill just use the two vertical studs. So I just test fitted the new parts together out of the car, the master cylinder had to be wiggled in since the stud wasnt straight, and now when it slid in, theres a gap between the master and the brake booster. I dont recall there being some sort of spacer on the old master. I even tried the new master with the old booster, slid in perfect but still a gap.
3. New brake booster looks significantly larger than OEM, Measured the rectangular indentation that fits in the firewall on the new one and the old one. The new one is larger. Will it even fit in my car?
Just frustrated because I wanted to get this done over the weekend and even ordered SS lines from MSA. And wanted to get it back on the road. Please if anyone can help me. Thanks.
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Wussup guys Im having an issue with my brakes. Ive been searching but cannot seem to find what I am looking for. Sorry if its a little long.
I have a 1978 280z. Went to take it out for a little drive around the block just to get it running and making sure everything still works. When I pulled out of the driveway when a few feet and my brakes were almost non existent. The pedal became very hard to push and barely stopping the car even when going 10mph. So I decided after researching that the master cylinder is probably going bad and mostly the brake booster needs to be replaced (Seemed like still original parts)
So I ordered a new master cylinder and brake booster from Black Dragon. Disassembled all the old parts. Mostly took out the brake booster, and left the master cylinder for now since it is still full of liquid.
Received my parts from black dragon this weekend. Here are my issues.
Black Dragon part numbers
#64-162-Z brake booster
#64-103 Master Cylinder
1. The old nuts that went on the old master to booster, 3 of them fit but the top one. The nut cant even be screwed in. It looks like they sent me a bad part. Threads on the stud looked stripped. And even at an angle. But all other 3 nuts screwed in.
2. The new master I received has only 2 stud holes when the old master had 4 is that normal? So I said what the hell I will try and make it work. Ill just use the two vertical studs. So I just test fitted the new parts together out of the car, the master cylinder had to be wiggled in since the stud wasnt straight, and now when it slid in, theres a gap between the master and the brake booster. I dont recall there being some sort of spacer on the old master. I even tried the new master with the old booster, slid in perfect but still a gap.
3. New brake booster looks significantly larger than OEM, Measured the rectangular indentation that fits in the firewall on the new one and the old one. The new one is larger. Will it even fit in my car?
Just frustrated because I wanted to get this done over the weekend and even ordered SS lines from MSA. And wanted to get it back on the road. Please if anyone can help me. Thanks.
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My Zedd Findings floor pans came in. So I now have my Badd Dog frame rails along with my floors. Anyone know how much just labor is to welding these in? So I can get an idea?
Also anyne in the South FL area that have experience in this? Thanks guys.
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Cool. PM sent
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Thanks guys. Will do.
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Frankly, this looks like a quagmire. A big list of difficult things (flares, coilovers, and floor pans aren't that easy), not much many to spend, talk about "chopping" things up, with "lol" thrown in the mix.
Probably best to offer free beer to anybody that will just stop by and check out your car. Give them a chance to see if they want to get involved.
At least you didn't start with a giant HELP ME!. I hate seeing that.
Well these difficult things makes these cars awesome and I dont think I will want to settle for less. I rather spend the money right first then spend it again and change it. Been through those days before lol. I know I will not get it all in one shot but I would like to get there eventually. Litttle by little. But I do know I dont want to chop it up and mess it up and spend more to fix it again lol. Just trying to get a start somewhere and get some advice. Especially need some Miami or Florida guys anywhere near my area. Dont want to annoy you guys either with this rookie talk just looking for a little help.
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Sounds like you know your way around cars if you built a 528HP 240SX. What engine were you running on that one?
Turbo guys can chime in here if an L28 can make that kind of power. I've always been a V-8 guy.
One thing that always sounds funny to me (don't take this the wrong way!!!)
Watanabe wheels and budget.
Wat's ain't cheap!!!
Haha I am not an expert with cars, just learn as i go, and do much as I can bolt on. I still have a shop here that helps me do big things like engine swaps and electrical (hate electrical stuff lol) or anything I cant handle. Now welding which I have no experience in at all is coming into play now since it is my first classic car. I just like doing things the right way first as much as possible.
Wats are definitely not cheap. Suppoedly Techno Toy Tuning has them for 1650$ shipped. I had Work Meisters on my 240sx. Those were not cheap either. But my budget meaning things I want, should, and can do first I guess with the money I have then save up again lol. But putting the money in the right places and parts. BTW doesnt take much to make power out of a 1J supra motor. Guys make way more power out of that thing stock here in Miami. But I hear these cars with like 400HP would be plenty. At least for the time being lol.
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newZed
Thanks man. Im on there as well. Cant seem to get anyone.
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1st, do you have tools?
2nd, get a JTR book if you are going V-8, read it 10 times, then read it 10 more, keep it next to the toilet ( I did)
As far as suspension, this is the first place I start, given the car is running.
Do you really need the coil overs or just WANT coil overs? I'd go with a set of new springs and struts. This is an easy way to become aquanted with the car. Get a bushing kit, ball joints and tie rod ends, you;re not a "real" z guy until you do the lower control arm bushings, period
The v8 swap isn't that hard. I had not spun a wrench in years before I started doing my conversion just took my time. As far as engine, are you going crate or build? If I could do it again, I'd go crate. You don't really need 400+ HP (you may want it but not totally necessary, more torque= more stress on parts= breakage.)
Or LS engine.
Finally...if you really need new floor pans, I'd find another car. If the pans are bad the frame rails are bad, more than likely the firewall and where the TC rods connect are bad too. To weld this all up (assuming you're having a shop do it) it's going to cost you, quite a bit. I would figure with pans, frame rails and some bad dog sub frame connectors + labor. I think you'd be in the neighboorhood of $2,000 (parts $459 at the ones I just looked at. Unless these can just be patched, I'd have to see to know
Fender flairs, have them cut you're fenders while you're there, probably run you another $400. So based on this you'll be in it for around $2400+/- just to get the car solid.
Just talking from experience. As stated above, if you're going to keep the car, start with the suspension.
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Thanks for the in sight. Sorry this might be a little long. This is my first classic Z. It actually is a very solid car. I paid 2500$ and I've seen worse at that price. Had plenty 240sx before with a KA-t and my favorite one a 98 240sx 1J. So this is my first 280z that I want to build. And yes I am going to keep the car lol.
But first of yes I have a decent tool collection. I do what I can handle. And have time for on my driveway (No garage). I have the Haynes manual so far and all these forums. I bought the car not being able to start and realized it was just the starter. So I got it started and loved driving it. So far I did all the maintenance stuff. Plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, did the rear drums, oil change, fixed a little surface rust on the roof, fiber glassed a little hole in the passenger floor pan. Took up the bumpers, installed a front air dam and other little things I cant think of right now.
There are little rust areas that need to be checked out besides little stuff on the body. I think the TC rod area on the frame on the passenger side might need a little attention. The driver side looks ok. I already have the bad dog frame rails ready to be welded. Under battery tray needs some repair too. But otherwise a very solid and fun car to drive.
I am not looking to do a V8 swap and really trying to keep it all Nissan. Was thinking a L28ET. I gotta go boost lol. At least 400 HP. Kinda spoiled with my old 240sx making 528HP. But like everyone I am on a budget and need to think things through on what I want to spend because I also want to enjoy the car as well and not let it sit in a shop forever. Would like to do things little by little. And if possible some help with some local guys rather than a shop that wont cost me an arm and a leg. I know it will take a long time to build it the way I want but I am trying to enjoy it while I work on it too if that makes any sense.
My plan so far besides boost and obvious paint and rust repair. Is suspension, Watanabe 16'' maybe 9 or 9.5 wide wheels, 240z front and rear bumpers, AC, and flares. Thats why I want coilovers, for lower stance, adjustability and extra wheel well space. Just trying to reach out to you guys and especially some Florida Z guys. Trying to find a starting point somewhere.
If anything I can send texts to anyone if they want to see pics of the car too. But really looking for some guidance and some FL guys. Thanks for reading.
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Z fever is near Tampa, I know not that close to you, but they have a really good reputation.
Yea i have heard of that place. But yes also a little far from me. Really looking for some local guys to help me out if possible. But thanks Blu
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Pillar thanks for the advice. I completely understand what you are saying. So far youve helped a lot. Ill go ahead and do what you think will help my project out. Thanks.
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Sorry guys I posted in the wrong areas, still new to the forums and was not sure where to post my topic.Guys I wanted to know if there is anyone in the South Florida (North Miami) area to help me with my 78 280z project. I have so many things I want to do and will probably need some help and guidance before I chop my car up lol (fender flares, coilovers, floor pans, etc.) Looking to get coilovers soon (Not sure which ones yet and that dont cost an arm and a leg) and with no welding experience I dont think I can tackle this conversion or any type of welding on my own. Wanted to reach out to the Florida Z owners and see if anyone with experience doing this to their Z. Thanks for the help.
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Guys I wanted to know if there is anyone in the South Florida (North Miami) area to help me with my 78 280z project. I have so many things I want to do and will probably need some help and guidance before I chop my car up lol (fender flares, coilovers, etc.) Looking to get coilovers soon (Not sure which ones yet and that dont cost an arm and a leg) and with no welding experience I dont think I can tackle this conversion on my own. Wanted to reach out and see if anyone with experience doing this to their Z in the South Florida area. Thanks for the help.
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Guys I wanted to know if there is anyone in the South Florida (North Miami) area to help me with my 78 280z project. I have so many things I want to do and will probably need some help and guidance before I chop my car up lol (fender flares, coilovers, floor pans, etc.) Looking to get coilovers soon (Not sure which ones yet and that dont cost an arm and a leg) and with no welding experience I dont think I can tackle this conversion or any type of welding on my own. Wanted to reach out to the Florida Z owners and see if anyone with experience doing this to their Z. Thanks for the help.
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Seems like he got the whole thing to unscrew from the start lol. Thanks for all the help. The only way I guess is to get it apart and check it out. Thanks again. I hope it wont be too hard to repair. Just afraid it wont unscrew.
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Yes I think I remember an arm on top of the wheel and one that seems flat facing me. Is that what you are talking about?
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Thanks! I will try that all out once I get all the parts in. Really thought I was in trouble since I cant find that part to be replaced new. That wheel would not turn at all. Any specific lube? Is it possible that it will be tough to unscrew when it is completely off? Or that's when the PB Blaster comes into play?
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Yes I did it with the drum off. behind the plate was too tough to do with just a flat head screwdriver. Yes I bought one brand new off ebay for 70$ but only for the driver side. Im guessing the passenger side has one too right? Nissan doesn't seem to make the adjusters anymore for a 78 280z.
Ok so you suggest just taking it all apart and cleaning up the adjuster right? PB blaster would help? Completely unscrew it will be possible I hope lol. It did not budge at all when I was turning it from the front when the drum was off.
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I have a 78 280z and due to a spongy pedal (bled the brakes already), I tried to adjust the rear drums (driver side) by the star wheel and it doesn't seem to turn. Hand brake also almost goes vertical when engaged. I already ordered new shoes, cylinders, and hardware kit for both sides and planning on re doing the rear drum brakes.
Could the adjuster be seized? Is there a way to repair it so it moves freely again? I found and bought a new driver side adjuster but I am worried the passenger side might have the same issue. Any ideas since I cant seem to find adjusters for a 78 280z? any other advice would help as well. Thanks
Brake issues 1978 280z
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted · Edited by vbgambini
I found the adjustment on the push rod. Says no more than 10mm it has to protrude im guessing to where it is flat on the opening from the spacer or is it from the bottom of the bore where it comes out of? I get confused looking at these manuals. Just trying to find out what reference point am I measuring from. The flat part of the booster, the complete bottom of the hole, or the flat part of the spacer to the MC.