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mattster03

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Everything posted by mattster03

  1. Life happened! I've still got the car, and make small progress every once in a while. I do think I'm going to start having a significant amount of time available to start working on this again in the fall. Sorry to have such a letdown of a build thread thus far!
  2. What was not complete about the paint job? I'm guessing engine bay, interior and jambs still black?
  3. So how was the car? I notice the price was dropped to $5200 this morning...
  4. It's really, super super easy to get into SEMA... "credentials" are a joke. If you know anyone, and I mean anyone with a car related business (even like a lube shop) just have them apply with you as the Janitor or something and you're in. Or go the media route and say you're taking pictures for hybridZ. I think I was even a "fluffer" for some shop one year. It's not nearly as exclusive as they want you to think...
  5. I have seen this one on craigslist (i'm in the seattle area) for almost 3 weeks now... makes me wonder what's wrong with it?
  6. A head/cam LS1 is easily able to obtain 10's in a lightweight car. I was well into the 10.8's with this setup in my 2,900lb LS1 powered FD RX7. Not sure how easy it is to get a 240z to hook up in comparison, but it is very doable power-wise to do with an N/A LS1
  7. I'll be there... this will be my 3rd time at sema. I have put myself on the "every other year" schedue: 2010, 2012 and now 2014
  8. Wow... thanks for the advice. I will make sure to align it with the diff rather than centering it in the engine bay!
  9. Yeah, you are right, the weight will be significantly further back which will be a nice little bonus for sure. It seems as if it will have no problem fitting completely behind the stock engine subframe and clear the tunnel with no problem. The plan for my "phase 1" is to just run it N/A; but once I get that phase completed I will start thinking about boost; I think that a supercharger package will fit very similarly to S2000 kits, but I would much prefer a nice little Precision 30mm turbo for a nice little boost in power.
  10. Well that would be a bit dissapointing if there was only 30-40lbs difference... I suppose the 6 speed vs. 4 speed is going to bring the weights of the two full pullouts a lot closer
  11. Yes, I too think it might be the best N/A 4cyl out of the box. I do think just from the inntial reactions from people outside this community that it is a little frowned upon to be putting 4cyl where 6cyl belongs and a Honda engine instead of a Nissan/Datsun, but I guess it is different and for me this project is all about the driveability and fun factor and you just cant beat that butter-smooth 6 speed and 9K redline when it comes to the F20C.
  12. Thanks for the pictures... very helpful. I think that the F20C mounts are about 1-2" further forward than SR's from what I have seen in pictures; tough to say for sure because it could also depend on how close you run the either engine to the firewall. I may just end up doing the cradle setup, but I would like to try the bridge mount design for fun, I have a lot of manufacturing capabilities thanks to the place where I work (3D CAD, Laser, press brake, etc.). I am very excited to get the engine and transmission all mounted up; that will be a great milestone in the project.
  13. Well, Z2K it is... though I would really doubt he would care if I called it a Z2000 haha
  14. And now to discuss what I believe to be one of the more complicated portions of the project. The engine mounts! Traditionally, it seems most manufactures who make kits for the SR-20 / KA20 engine swaps (closest example I could find to the F20C since they are both 4cyl engine which mount far back) make weld in mounts which tie into the frame rails and pick up the engine mounts well behind the original chassis cross member mounts. The reason for this, although obvious I want to state it, is because the whole engine is now behind the stock engine cradle mounting points, so therefor the engine mounts are going to be even further behind. Here is an example of the most popular "Mckinney" KA-24 swap cradle: . I'm am currently not a huge fan of this setup. Probably mostly because I would rather have a bolt-in solution that uses the factory engine cradle. From what I can see, the F20 must have engine mount points on the block which are further forward when comparing to the SR-20 / KA24 which gives me the idea that I might be able to design mounts that just "bridge" forward the required distance to pick up the stock engine cradle.... clear as mud, right? So here are the measurements that I'll be working with for starters... I'll be making up some parts in 3D CAD to post up later this week to see what you all think. Stock engine cradle angle... I'll assume it's 45*: The F20C engine comes from the factory in the S2000 mounted at a slight angle to help with hood clearance. I am maintaining that angle which appears to be about 15* off vertical. And this is how far my replacement "bridge" mount will have to span... from the front bolt it's ~5-1/2 - 6". No easy feat, but I do have a design in mind (sorry about the blurry picture, it was an awkward position and I was all hopped up on coffee): I have already posted this picture, but now you need to see it again to see the factory engine cradle mount points, the tilt of the engine and the aluminum mounts (which I will be re-designing/replacing): Is this making sense to anyone? Hopefully my 3D CAD mock-up will better help relay my ideas...
  15. Spent my Memorial day morning working on the car again... everything was going great until I laid my head in a puddle of gear oil... can't stand that smell of that stuff so the day was over right about then LOL. Anyway, made some more fine-tuned adjustments to the engine trying to get it in it's ideal location. Here are a few more pictures of what could be close to it's final home: Frame rails are exactly 25" apart, so this is pretty well centered on the crank: Oil pan is just above the cross member (despite what the angle of the photograph seems to suggest) A close-up of the hood latch area. The points of concern are the cam position sensor (cracked) and the oil cap. Both are accessible:
  16. Excellent info, thank you very much. My 260Z is Vin#RLS30-004235 , I have not yet been able to read the plate in the door jamb to find out the production date; the previous owner decided to paint over it . The car has all the bodily signs of the 240Z, small bumpers, indentations on the rear quarter panels for the bumpers, turn signals below the headlights, etc. If I measure the strut tube lengths, this should be a good indicator, right?
  17. MIght be a little soon, but I hoisted the F20 into place to at least verify it fits in the "envelope"... and I was quite happy to find that it is as good as a fit as I hoped. The engine is completely behind the stock crossmember, the shifter is perfectly aligned with the hole in the transmission tunnel and it appears that the valve cover will clear the factory hood latch. The one thing that won't work is the A/C compressor, it plows right into the steering shaft; but I really wasn't planning on running A/C anyway. Still wondering if the stock header will fit. Miles of space in front of the engine for future turbo goodies .
  18. I made some progress on the car this weekend, and with a day off tomorrow, I am hoping to get a full day of work in. Started by pulling the old engine and transmission out; a load leveler is worth every penny! Here are the L26 and F20C side-by-side. Quite a size difference, I hope to find a way to weigh them before this is all over, but I'm guessing right around 150lbs difference? Empty engine bay shot... lots of work to do here.
  19. Thanks, this is really helpful. The only question I have is, is there a documented measurement I can take to know if I have the "short" or "tall" rear shock towers? If I took a picture and posted, could someone tell me?
  20. Broken Kitty, Dirty Dingo... where do these guys think of this stuff lol
  21. Thank you for the info. I will have to research the "raised strut mounts" a bit b/c if it's built into the chassis, an early 260Z should be more like a 240Z since they are the last of the 240Z bodies...
  22. I don't think pictures would help... my car does have a full interior. I just want to know if when I choose to change them to black if I can buy 240Z panels or if I have to look specifically for early 260Z panels?
  23. I am a bit confused and hoping someone can help clear things up. It seems that there are so many 240Z interior panel replacement kits on the market, but they specifically say "70-73 240Z". And by panels I am referring to the trunk 1/4 panels, dog legs, lamp cover, etc. I have an early '74 260Z that has panels that sure look the same as the 240Z panels... are they the same or subtly different? Or are they the same as late 260Z/280Z panels? I do know that the door panels are different. I searched and couldn't find the answer, hopefully I didn't miss a thread that spells this out already...
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