manimal

Cool build, I plan on doing a full writeup of my k swap in a month or two once it is on the ground and running. It's the perfect engine for the car, turbo if you want reliable hp or NA(what I did) for a light weight high rpm screamer.

Brakequip BQ187 is the line adapter you're looking for. If you end up using a wilwood master cylinder, BQ50 is the brake line adapter for those 3/8-24 inverted flare male to M10x1 IF female. ~$5/ea direct, I was able to find some locally at MFCP which is a west coast Parker affiliated chain. Midwest/East coasters likely have a similar chain. https://brakequipproducts.com/product-category/thread-changers/?filter_thread-type=standard-and-metric

I made a custom T with 1" & 5/8" tubing + some custom "washers" to close the gap. Doing that would take a lot of time by hand + some semi specialized tools like a die grinder w/carbide burr, step drill, drill press + vise. The easier option is a 1" NPT brass "T" with 1" NPT 5/8" hose barb. If you have a local supply place you can probably get the parts for ~$20. The fabric coated hose I used in the pictures was ~ $4/foot iirc. I mounted mine to the block since I think it looks cleaner, though it would be better to have the block outlet hose dumping slightly below it's outlet so anything condensing drips down into the can. Generic $35 ebay catch can. Motoiq.com put out a video on the "IAG Air Oil Separator" which is a step up from the catch can. It uses the coolant loop to heat the can directs the mist to the wall of the can in an effort to evaporate any moisture with the oil draining back into the block. Definitely overkill for a street car, but worth a mention if someone finds this thread and is looking for a better track option.

I bought a $35 ebay special and added some steel wool to the "filter" it has for the inlet. I can't say whether or not that really helps, but some of the more expensive catch cans do that. I plan on running a line from the out to carb filter baseplate eventually. The hose sizing is odd, from memory the valve cover is 16mm and block is 25mm. I cut some 1" 049 tube for the T body and some 5/8 035 for the catch can/valve cover ends to make a custom T. You could do the same with parts from a store specializing in hoses. Idk if this is common, but I have a local store which does custom hydraulic, water, air, etc lines and has adapters out the wazoo. I bought the fabric coated hose there as well. Leak down test is a good idea, but something even easier you might want to try is UV coolant dye + a black light if you are concerned about a coolant leak. The UV dye survives the combustion process and is visible at the tailpipe if there is a coolant leaking into the combustion chamber. If it's leaking into your oil you'll find there.

Why are you looking at the wiring on the combi switch? Unless you're replacing all the wiring, factory relays and all with an aftermarket setup, you only need to look at the engine bay connector wiring. I've got an early 74 260z and just wired up the honda motor, I believe the wire colors are the same. I won't be able to test it for a week or two because I'm still working on other wiring updates, but I'll report back when I do test it. I recommend adding a SPST relay to the circuit and lubricating the wiper linkage before swapping the wiper motor. I have very little experience with the Z, most of my car work has been old BMWs and Volvos, but I did take a multi-meter to a number of locations on the car and the voltage drop is pretty significant all around. I probably would not have done the swap as my wiring plans evolved and instead started with adding a SPST relay. You can quickly add the relay and possibly solve your slow wiper issues(also lube the two main wiper posts!). If it doesn't solve your issue, the relay won't have harmed anything or taken much time to install. If you unwrap the wiring harness where the wiper motor wires meet the main wiring harness about two feet from the engine bay connector there will be a LR (blue/red) single 18ga(16ga?) which splits into three and feeds the reverse light switch on the trans + washer pump motor. This wire is hot when the key is in and switched to Acc or Run. Cut this at the joint and the single becomes the trigger (85), the triple (87) receives +12v from a fused wire to the battery (30), and 86 is ground to the chassis. I found the new aftermarket honda motors don't use the wiring colors mentioned in all of the writeups, likely due to the generic vs OEM unit. Also, it's NOT a '91 honda wiper motor. '91 was the last year of one generation and the motor you want is from a '92 to '96 civic or '94 to '01 integra, part #76505-SR3-A01. I ordered a $40 generic unit off ebay and it came with the hardware needed and the shaft was notched like the OEM wiper so no grinding to it was needed. The wiper mount still needed grinding, approximately where my squiggly line is. The heat shrink colors match the generic wiper wiring colors and the connector pic is from zcardepot with a slight enhancement to the colors. '74 early ----- Generic 92-96 civic 260z 94-91 integra wires Black ------------ Black Blue/Red ------ Red Blue -------------- Green Blue/Yellow -- Yellow Yellow ----------- White Blue/white ---- Not used TL;DR - install a relay and lube wiper pivots first, easier, quicker, cheaper.

I'm disassembling mine right now and had a remove a broken stud from the intake side recently, so top of the head knowledge. Looks like a welder is your best bet at this point.

Welding a nut on is the best solution, it's a M8x1.25 bolt. Use a M10 nut so you get better penetration and leave the nut partially off the stud so there is a bit of a pocket you can fill with weld. Before welding the nut on, fill the oil pump hole with one of those blue "shop towel" paper towels and tape over it so you can't get anything inside the engine. Another idea I just thought of for those with out a welder. You may be able to get the stud out by continually soaking it in PB blaster over a day. Then clean the stud really well with acetone and a small wire brush. Cover it with red loctite 271, thread a nut on, and let it cure over night. I would try that before filing flats into it, because you can do one before the other, but not vise versa. I've also found channellock GL-6 pliers to work better than vise grips(though I haven't used the V-jaw vise grips yet) and they would work better with out filing flats on the stud.