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Andrew Bayley

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About Andrew Bayley

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  • Birthday 06/12/1975

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  1. As a member of HybridZ since early 2000, some of you old farts might actually remember me. However, I haven't been too active lately. Regardless, I've finally decided to put the old girl up for sale. Any last shred of practicality this car had was tossed out the window with the recent addition to my family. I suppose it's time to restore that old 71' Coupe De Ville I've always talked about doing. Please PM, or email me at: bayley(at)gmail.com for auction details. I am willing to end the auction early if a serious offer is submitted. Thanks! -Andy Ebay Link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320303633319 Early 1974 Datsun 260Z – Powered by a 358 cubic inch Chevrolet V8 History: I originally purchased this 1974 Dastun 260Z in the spring of 1998 out in Santa Monica California. It had always been a Southern California car and had never seen a flake of snow. Because of this, the body and integrity of this car was beautiful without a spot of rust anywhere on her. The car was towed back to Detroit Michigan where it only saw fair weather driving and NEVER once laid foot (tire?) in the snow. The body still remains 100% rust free to this day! In the summer of 1998, the tired old underpowered 2.6L 6-cylinder (~120,000 miles) was removed and the conversion to a V8 Chevy power plant was completed. This was my THIRD conversion to a V8 in a Datsun Z. The original factory paint was stripped completely off and a new base / clear paint job was applied in the fall of 1998. Over the next ten years the car enjoyed many days at the drag strip, autocross, car shows and even the legendary Woodward Dream Cruise. While I’ve sure had more than my fair share of fun with her, it’s time for me to move onto different and new projects. Current Condition: The car is in “great†shape. Will it win best-in-class at the next auto show? Doubtful. She’s a driver. I built this car with all intentions of putting her through her paces and she has a few nicks and scratches to show for this. There is a small piece of rear view mirror housing that is missing from when my father hit the car with his motorcycle. There is also a 3 inch scratch from when my father dropped a rake onto the rear (passenger) quarter panel. There is a small flake of paint coming off the hood that is slightly smaller than the size of a dime. To my knowledge, my father had nothing to do this one. The paint is still in great condition after being shot ten years ago. There is one moderate sized run in the paint on the passenger side fender from where the original badge (now removed) was. Who this car is for: *Hobbyists who enjoy playing with cars *Somebody looking for a unique alternative to a standard generic muscle car *Saturday Night Cruisers Who this car is NOT for: *Anyone that is allergic to hand tools *People who must have a radio and A/C *Long distance commuters searching for an economical vehicle Body: (Early) 1974 Datsun 260Z. Half way through the 1974 run of 260’s, Datsun implemented the very large and ugly government mandated 5mph crash bumpers. This particular 260Z was built just under the wire and still has the much smaller earlier style impact bumpers similar to the original 240Z’s. Every body panel is stock except for the front air dam which was replaced to an aftermarket fiberglass (Motorsport Auto) style in fall of 1998. Underbody: Frame rails and floorboards are still 100% SOLID and RUST FREE! The forward frame rails and floorboards are (were) notorious for rusting on us poor folks that happen to live in the great “rust belt†of America. Therefore, I took great care in making sure that my beautiful California car REMAINED rust free by parking in an enclosed garage from October to April each year. Interior: There is an 8-point roll “bar†(read: not a cage) that is welded to the front floor and rear strut towers. The roll bar was designed to meet both NHRA specifications for cars running 11.99 to 11.00 quarter mile elapsed times. All welding was performed by a UAW certified welder (who just happened to be a good friend of mine). Passenger seat is original but the driver seat was replaced with a light weight JAZ seat. The driver seat belts were replaced with an RJS 5-point harness that have a manufactured date of February 2000. The belts are still perfectly safe, but they will not pass an NHRA or IHRA inspection (too old). The original dashboard was pulled out and replaced with a 1977 280Z dashboard because of its excellent condition. This is only one very small hair line crack on the left side of the dash that was caused from a 110mph rollover accident. This is not the typical Grand-Canyon sized cracks that are typical in these cars. The door panels and black vinyl panels are all in excellent shape. The carpet was also swapped over from the 1977 280Z and is in “fair†condition. The spare tire well was removed and a fuel cell was hung underneath the rear deck. There is a small trap door in the read deck that allows access to the fuel cell filler. All of the original fuel plumbing has been removed. CARB and Emissions: You’re kidding, right? Instrument Panel: As an electrical engineer, I found it necessary to create a slick little switch panel for the main engine and body functions. This switch panel controls the starter, ignition box, fuel pump, cooling fan, line (brake) lock, nitrous solenoids, nitrous purge (not currently wired), running lights and head lights. At the time of this description, only the high beams are wired. The signal wiring is in place for the low beams, but two extra solenoids and an additional power line need to be routed in the front area of the car. There is a space for a vacuum gauge in the switch pack, but I never drilled the hole to place the gauge in the switch pack. This is why you see a “virtual vacuum gauge†just below the actual gauge. Backlighting (green) works on all the gauges. The original key still successfully locks the steering column, but does not shut off any electrical functions. The turn signals are still in their original location, and function perfectly, but are now wired battery direct. HVAC: Gone. I still have the original air case, blower motor and heater core, but they are no longer in the vehicle. Engine: The engine started off as a Chevrolet 350ci V8 out of a 1977 Z28 Camaro. I do not know the casting numbers, please don’t ask for them. In 1996, the engine was rebuilt from the ground up with 0.040†oversized flat-top Hypereutectic pistons. The camshaft is the Edlebrock Performer RPM: Lift 0.488†/ 0.510â€, Dur @ .050†234˚/244˚. The cylinder heads are also Edlebrock Performer RPM: 64cc chambers, 2.02†intake, 1.60†exhaust. Compression is estimated around 10.0 to 1. The carburetor is a Holley 4150 “Double Pumperâ€. It started off as a 650cfm with electric choke. The entire choke assembly was milled off and down leg boosters replaced the original peg-leg boosters. The modified Holley was flow tested at 685cfm. Ignition is handled by an MSD 6-AL box with an MSN Blaster Coil limited to 6400 rpm. With a standard 600 cfm vacuum secondary carb, Edlebrock claims this package is worth 420hp. There is a 125hp NOS “Power Shot†plate underneath the carburetor. Fuel and Nitrous solenoids are in place but need to be wired. Nitrous hasn’t been run on the motor since 2001. A total of maybe 12 ten pound nitrous bottles (not many) have been run through this motor. Transmission: The transmission is a TH700R-4 that came out of a 1987 Z28 Camaro (with the coveted “auxiliary valve bodyâ€). A very strong billet aluminum forward drum ($$$) was installed in the winter of 2003. New clutches and bands were installed in the summer of 2006. Also installed was a reverse pattern FULL MANUAL freewheeling valve body. The transmission WILL go into whatever gear you tell it to, whenever you tell it, regardless of how fast you’re going. It’s a lot like driving a manual transmission car, but without the clutch pedal. The torque converter is 10-inch 3200 rpm stall lock up converter. The lockup solenoid in the transmission is currently not hooked up. I replaced the trans filter last summer and forgot to reconnect the solenoid before I bolted the pan back onto the transmission. To gain full lockup of the converter (in fourth gear), one simply needs to drop the trans pan and reconnect the solenoid. All other wiring is already in place. Exhaust: Ceramic coated block hugger heads with a 1 and 5/8 inch diameter runners and 2.5 inch collectors. 2.5 inch exhaust (with flex joints) to Dynomax side pipes. The side pipes originally had an ultra restrictive reduction from 3 inch to 1 and ¾ inch inner diameter in the muffler section. This muffler section was “modified†for improved flow and lower restriction. It’s difficult to explain, please e-mail for pictures. The exhaust note is loud and pronounced, but still quieter than your average Harley. I’ve yet to be given any type of harassment or warning for the exhaust, nor do I expect to. Rear Axle: Upgraded to the larger R200 differential from a 1989 300ZX with a 3.7 ratio. This is an open differential. In addition, I also have a 3.54 ratio R200 with a “Lincoln Locker†that can be sold with the car at no additional cost. The half shafts are original, but I also have a set of 280ZXT CV-joint half shafts that can sold with the car as well. They will need an adapter plate that can purchased from various sources on the internet. The R200 has a unique “hanging mount†that hangs the front of the differential rather than supports it from the bottom. During heavy acceleration, the front of the differential lifts causing the original mount design to tear. The hanging mount simply compresses and no longer rips. The new hanging mount needs a small trimming as it occasionally thumps on heavy acceleration in first gear. The mount can be set back to the original style at any time without any complication. Suspension: Fully adjustable “Ground Control†coil-over suspension. 225lbs spring rate in the back and 175lbs rate in the front. Ride height is 100% adjustable on all four corners. Struts are from Tokiko. Solid steering coupler and polyurethane steering rack bushings. Front control arms were repositioned (up and inwards) to eliminate bump steer. Fuel System: The original gas tank was removed and replaced with a 10 gallon fuel cell. The fuel cell has foam inserts, but no fuel gauge (watch your trip odometer!!!) Fuel is pumped from a Holley “Blue†pump and pushed through half-inch aluminum fuel line all the way into the engine compartment. Cooling System: Aluminum single core radiator keeps things nice and cool. For an electric fan, I actually pulled a cooling fan from an older Ford Taurus V6 with A/C. These fans are notorious for flowing HUGE amounts of air that no aftermarket fan can touch. On hot summer days (90 – 95 degrees) the radiator and fan will keep the coolant temperature at, or below, 180 degrees. Performance Numbers: Without Nitrous: 12.501 @ 110 mph / 1.891 60’ time (street tires) With Nitrous: 11.03 @ 124 mph / 1.601 60’ time (BFG Drag Radials) Payment Information: $500 partially refundable deposit required WITHIN 48 HOURS of auction ending. After sending the deposit, the buyer has until 14 days from close of auction to inspect the condition of this automobile. ONLY AFTER A PHYSICAL INSPECTION BY THE BUYER OR LEGAL AGENT, if the buyer no longer wishes to purchase the automobile he/she will be refunded $300 of the original deposit. If a sales cancellation is made without a physical inspection, the buyer will not be given any type of refund on their deposit. Any deviations by the buyer from the aforementioned procedure will result in a Non Paying Bidder complaint filed. The seller is willing to consider to special accommodations for individuals who need more time, but only after a detailed explanation. Delivery: I can deliver to the eastern US, but I won’t be the cheapest or fastest. I’ll likely charge $0.70 a mile from zip code 48154 and deliver on a weekend in late October of early November. Please contact me for details. Happy Bidding!
  2. Thanks for the response(s) guys. The problem I’m getting is definitely an interference hit. Under normal street driving, everything is nice, quiet and smooth. However, under heavy torque loads, something is banging around down there. First gear is obviously the worst (as the banging goes). After I originally put the mount in, I could easily get the differential to “thump†in all three gears. After the disappointing initial drive, I shaved a v-shaped “notch†into the polyurethane GM Transmission mount. Before I did this, there was a good ¼ inch of space between the mounting tab(s) and the differential (where the bolts feed through). After I “notched†the mount, the mounting tabs sit flush against the diff mounting surface. Another thing I noticed was that the stock differential mounting bolts appear to be too long. Rather than using the stock flat washers, I simply used a couple spare lug nuts as nuts for the mounting bolts. As I torque’d down the bolts, I noticed that I was bottoming out the threads of the bolt before the mount was tightly fastened against the differential. A washer was fitted onto ONE of the bolts, but this pushed the mount too far over to use a washer on the second nut. Since I was in a rush to finish up, the second bolt was installed WITHOUT a spacing washer. If one of the mounting bolts isn’t pulling the mount firmly against the differential (even though the other one is) would this be a cause of the loud “thumping†I’m hearing? I’ve checked all the u-joints and they are all perfect. Also, while time for replacement bushings, the moustache bar and bushings are all still intact. As it sits, I’ve got about ¼ of inch clearance between the bolt heads for the differential mounting bolts and the original cross member. Is this enough?
  3. I just installed my home-made R/T diff mount this evening and it seems like I still need to do some tweaking. When I was originally bolting everything together, I noticed some interference issues with the mounting hardware on the differential against the cross member. I switched the direction of the bolt (goes up now instead of down) and removed the flat washer. This gave me about 1/4 inch of clearance between the mounting bolt heads and the cross member. On the test drive, I was getting a loud banging noise under mild torque loads. Since this is the first time I've gotten this noise and the mount was the only thing I change, I can only assume that one of the bolt heads is hitting the cross member. So, all the people who are successfully running this mount, how much clearance is between YOUR cross member and mounting bolts? I'm thinking I might need to grind a little more material away from the bottom of the urethane mount. All I did to prepare the mount was grind the bottom portion of the mount so it was flush with the gold metal tabs. I'm thinking that maybe I should have grinded a little more. Oh well, at least the side pipes I installed last summer make differential swaps / work TONS easier.
  4. Remember one thing though... most mandrel bends aren't 100% perfect. There is still going to be some deformation of the diameter inside the bend. You will need to weld the difference at the pipe connections if you cut inside the bend and splice a pipe into the cut.
  5. Just finished the final install and... wow, I was (am) very pleased with how these sound. I got a feeling what little fiberglass I left in the muffler isn't going to last very long. Just blipping the throttle in nuetral blasted all sorts of fiberglass material out of the tailpipe. Oh... darn!!! After tacking everything in place I had my friend "big Jer" stop by and finish the welding job. He also helped lift the pipes in place and bolted them in. Even suckered him into doing collectors. Hehe... I would have shot a short video with sound. However, the camera battery was on its last millivolt and my new rubber valve cover gasket is already leaking. Gotta love SBC valve covers. Anyway, here are a few pictures:
  6. There's a few of us around here still. May 13th, eh? Hmmm... maybe. Got a bachelor party later in the day, will have to wait and see. Can't promise anything, but would ne nice to hang out with some other local groups.
  7. Update after last night: Well, the pipes are now securing fastened to the car. However, the more I look at my setup, and the more I look at “Coze Z Cole’s” setup, the more I think I need a flex piece between the pipe and header. Gonna try to shop around today and see if anybody locally (Detroit area) has a 2.5” flex piece. If not, I’m sure Summit sells them. As for the mounting, I basically took half of the Dynomax brackets and threw them in the garbage. I wound up keeping the rounded section of the clamps and used those to connect the heat shield to the muffler section. I had to cut off the threaded section of the clamp so just the raw rounded metal section of the U-shaped clamp was left. First, I welded one of these pieces to each end of the muffler pipe. Next, I took the heat shield and placed it over the muffler section with the U-clamps provided a good ½ inch spacing between the two. I started welding one edge of the heat shield to the U-clamp on both ends of the pipe. Then, I had a fairly burly friend squeeze the heat shield and hold it in place against the other end of the U-clamp as I welded it in place. With the muffler section and heat shield now permanently connected as one, I took to hanging the pipe from the car. I drilled holes for the front and rear hangers and installed the Dynomax supplied hangers and rubber isolators. Instead of the cheap shiiit metal screws, I used thru bolts and fender washers. After all, these Datsun floor boards aren’t known for the superior thickness. Anyway, I then held the pipes in place then welded the hanging section of the bracket to the side of the pipe. Overall, it came out a lot better than I had originally expected. It is impossible to see any of the mounting hardware from outside the car. There is maybe a 1/4 inch gap between the top of the heat shield and the rocker panel. Even go, the gap is outwards and not hanging down. While I would have still preferred to hang the pipes along the rocker panels, it just wasn’t going to happen with what I had. I’m pretty happy with what I came with instead. I would have tried to finish more last night, but it was already 11:30 PM by the time I made it this far, and the Wings just tied it up in the second period. Still need to finish up the two bends coming off the header and insert a flex piece. Once that is done, she should be ready to fire. I’ll hopefully be able to post up pictures and a video clip when it’s all done.
  8. I’m trying to run the pipes along the sides of the rocker panels to not loose any ground clearance. If I use the Dynomax mounting kit, I can only get about 2 or 3 inches of ground clearance. Plus, there is a rather large sized gap between the rocker and top of the pipes when I do this. I’m trying to make everything look tight and clean, but it’s not happening with those HUGE clamps Dynomax provides. The sheer size pretty much guarantees your pipes can’t be mounted closer than a couple inches away from the rockers. As for the internals, my biggest concern is the 1 and 5/8th inch inner diameter of the muffler section. I don’t think that is going to flow 500hp very well. Right now, I’m ready to give up the whole side pipe idea. I am very frustrated with this kit as a whole. I’ve already stripped two of the screws they provided to attach the heat shield to the clamps simply because the shield wouldn’t line up with the clamps. Nevermind the sheet metal SCREWS they expect you drill through the floor to hold up the pipes. Yeah, that ain’t gonna happen. Thanks for the advice Larry, but I’ve got a feeling if I can’t figure out something tonight… it’s back to the drawing board. Davy, yeah I’ve been on a “retro” kick lately. Also, I drove my friends factory five Cobra last fall and immediately fell in love with the sidepipe idea.
  9. Dear lord... this kit is a steaming pile of dog poop! The holes for the heat shield do NOT line up and the clamps they provide are so rediculously HUGE it almost forces you to hang the exhaust a good 2 - 3 inches below the frame rail. This is not an option. I'm going to try and weld up something tomorrow to see if I have any more luck (or lack of). However, I don't feel too confident about the outcome.
  10. Or so I'm told! Started fartin' around with the old girl again trying to jump start my enthusiasm again. So far, its working! Got the engine dropped back in last night, need to finish up the final wiring, drop in the radiator, then tackle the new exhaust project. Got a big car show in late June I'm hoping to attend (St. Ignace Michigan). The (new) wife is really looking forward to going so I don't want to disappoint.
  11. After discovering that the Patriot sidepipes had an ultra restrictive inner diameter of 1 and 5/8th inch in the muffler section, I ordered the ($100 more expensive) Dynomax kit that advertises a 2.5" inner diameter. Nope, they lied. The Dynomax muffler is just as poopy as the Patroit. However, the Dynomax muffler section easily slides out of the 3 inch exhaust pipe it is housed in. After sliding the muffler piece out, I drilled about ten 1/4 inch holes on both sides of the retaining ring and removed all the fiberglass. Not sure how loud this will be, but it's got to flow at least a little better now. Earlier tonight I heard a 350 SBC with the Patroit side pipes at a local car show. I was pretty bummed at how quiet his setup was. Hopefully my "cutsomization" of the muffler inserts will wake it up some. If all goes well, I plan to have this wrapped up by next week some time.
  12. YEAH!!! The Dynomax system arrive today! BOO!!! It's just as bad as the Patriot System. I'm going to post pictures in another topic.
  13. OK, I just got off the phone with the manufacturers at Patriot Exhaust. The inner diameter of the muffler section goes down to 1 and 5/8th on an inch. Ouch! Gonna call up Dynomay next. If they aren't any better, I might have to go commando and make my own set.
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