wayverippah
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Posts posted by wayverippah
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I had the t3 setup at first. It's good quality but I did not like the fact that the springs hung unloaded when jacking the car up.
I switched to the Arizona z cars coilovers and am much happier.
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Pm's replied to. Still looking.
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No one? I'd be willing to buy the motor and tranny separately if you only have one piece.
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Looking for a good l28et with a 5 speed transmission and all of the relevant goodies (harness, ecu, etc).
Must be willing to ship, or within close proximity to Dallas tx.
Thanks!!
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Yes, the GM harness will control the entire engine.
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When I did my swap, I yanked the entire harness... But I wanted to rewire everything because i'm anal. You can leave it in and just use the GM harness for engine function. You really don't need to modify anything (GM got it right), just get HPTuners and remove VATS. Going with a T56 makes things even easier since you don't have to deal with the harness for an automatic. Also, use a drive-by-cable throttle body to make things easier (LS2's came with both drive by wire and drive by cable).
Also, take note that GTO T56's are slightly different than FBody T56's. Both work, but will take a little modification depending on which one you get.
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I've had very little success with shops in our area. I know you don't want to stray far from yourself, but the ones that I know of that have worked on z's are all in the grand Prairie, Arlington, ft worth area.
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They look really thin. If you look closely at the second picture... I'm not sure how the rod end is actually attached. You can grab a high quality set from AZC with tension rods for not much more: http://www.arizonazcar.com/lowarms.html
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I've got the CX Racing kit without the long tubes. I have Shorties with an LS3 and it's a tight fit. It does allow a lot of horizontal adjustment, but I had to do some frankensteining to my steering linkage just to get shorties to work... I honestly don't see how long tubes will work with it. (Notice how they only show pictures of the passenger side without the linkage).
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Are you tracking it?
I've been pushing 500hp (6.2) on the stock open r200... (Street driven, not track). You can probably get by with swapping in CV's. Otherwise, Reb is right on.
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I actually had the same issues with my fiberglass spoiler that I ordered from them. The edges are starting to separate already. Not too concerned about it as it won't take much work to repair... But it still sucks. I'll see if I can upload a picture when I get home.
On the other hand, my air dam that I got from them is top notch.
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My first swap was a 5.3 LM7 which is essentially a smaller displacement iron ls1 block. I used the truck intake and it fit under the hood. The oil pan will definitely need to be changed though... You can grab entire running engines (~100k miles) from a junkyard for ~$500 depending on your area. Don't let high mileage 5.3's scare you, these things were built like beasts.
You might want to head over to the ls1tech forums, they have 5.3 builds all over the place.
As others have stated, a few bolt ons will get you somewhere between 350 to 400 and can be a reliable daily driver.
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A cammed junkyard 5.3 would surprise you, and be well below your budget. If you looked hard enough, you could probably piece together a turbo kit for it as well. There are articles and youtube videos showing a stock 5.3 getting a RELIABLE 500hp, and well beyond that for track use.
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There are a number of posts about this already on HybridZ. I myself had it mounted on the engine side of the firewall and just fabbed up a new linkage. You get the controller of of eBay for the Saturn Vue motor, and attach a potentiometer to get variable assist. I got the idea from another member who did the same thing, and also sold a few setups so I know there are number of folks running it.
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I would jack it up and look under it. It could be a steal at $300, even if you end up just parting it out and scrapping the rest. But Wisconsin would see a lot of water and road salt, so you will want to get a good view of the undercarriage... Floor pans and frame rails aren't too bad to replace, but you could be looking at a lot of rot elsewhere that may not be worth it.
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It's a rally fighter. You basically go to their shop and build it with them.
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I would contact Jesse Streeter if ordering anything from Japan (jessestreeter.com). He bought my Marugen Shoukai flares straight from the source and shipped it to me far less (and quicker) than RHDJapan quoted.
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Threw an LS3 in and had to modify my steering shaft to get around the long tubes. Could've made it work with the electric motor if I had investigated moving it closer towards the front of the car, but a Subaru rack was easy enough to work in as well as not having to mod the serpentine system to remove the power steering pump.
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You guys might be interested in this.... I had the same setup in my Z before switching to hydraulic. Mounted mine right at the firewall though. You can pop in a potentiometer to vary the assist as well.
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Junkyards in the northwest seem to have a number of fiberglass fenders. I've bought 4 sets from Washington and Oregon and they've all fit perfectly.
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Good to hear you got it all sorted out. For future reference, all LS blocks can use LS7 lifters/trays and is what a dealership will swap them for.
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Cummins 4bt.
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Will isn't making any more of his 8.8 kits I thought.
If you're plan is to replace the mustache bar, mounts, and such.... Why not just go with the TTT kit? Sell the R200 and coil overs and you can throw in a whole rear sub from a Skyline for half of what the MM kit gets you. Bigger brakes, CV's, and a helical or clutch LSD...
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I used a CTS-V oil pan in both of my LS swaps. With the CXRacing mounts, it lines up with the bottom of the crossmember.
Super Magnum t56 fitment
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Posted
I had an f-body T56 at first and had to bang out the tunnel. I switched over to a T56 magnum when I added a turbo and had to bang it out even more.