cd1105

Thanks for the quick answers you guys. I have the main R/W harness wire hooked up to the starter lug as well as the two fusible link wires(green and brown i think), along with the positive cable from the positive post on the battery. I'm assuming that the big R/W wire from the main harness closest to the starter lug(and also connects on the starter) is also connected to the R/W wire that goes to the back of the alternator(Or is it the same wire)? Is that how the alternator charges the battery, when the R/W wire and the positive cable are connected to the same point on the starter?

Tested my battery for its voltage while idleing and reving it a little, and my alternator is for sure not charging it. DC voltage reads about 11.8. I might just have a bad alternator(Getting it tested tomorrow). I have a question about how the system recharges the battery though. My battery is relocated to the trunk, and the positive and cable goes through the firewall and into the engine compartment and onto the starter bolt. Does the alternator recharge the battery directly through the postive cable, or is there another wire that was originally on the postive post of the battery that leads into the charging system? The pictures below is how the battery is hooked up in the hatch and the connection at the alternator, does everything look right?

Thank you, I will try tomorrow.

I did this mod a while back on my late model 260z and I have to problems shutting off my car with the key. My question for anyone that has done this swap is how do you know that the alternator is actually charging the battery correctly? Is the charging light supposed to light up on the dash? If so, mine does not. I plan on driving my car(260z with l28et swap) for the first time in a few weeks and everything runs fine, but this has always been in the back of my mind, so i would like to address the issue if there is one, before I drive my car, turn it off and be stranded because of a dead battery

bump

bump still looking

I need one from a 260z or 280z thanks though.

I'm looking for a brake booster from a late 260z/280z. I would like if its in good mechanical and cosmetic condition. I'm Located in Oakland C.A. 94609.

LOL will do....until the next major upgrade like megasquirt

Well I sanded all my connections for the grounds to the body again so that helped some. When i transfered over coils i took everything off the stock coil and connected it back to the coil from the ZXT. The original tach feed was on the negative post of the coil along with the new tach feed. When i took the the old tach wire off I noticed the coil stopped making the weird noise. I adjusted the dizzy and it started right up.

2years and 7 months ITS RUNNING! Thanks to everyone for the help! pics and videos coming soon...I do have slight problem trying to figure out if the turbo is spinning(blow off valve is not completely opening), but i can figure that out myself.

I haven't played with the relays(I know the fuel pump relay works when the key turns to the "ign" postion). I'll install the ignition switch tomorrow ...could I have a bad coil? Any ideas on why the motor would kick once when not in the start position? UPDATE: I changed the ignition switch but it didn't make a difference. I pulled out my voltmeter and put the positive lead on the positive post of the coil and the negative lead I grounded to the frame, and the coil is only getting 11.03V when the key is in the ON position. Should it be getting 12volts in the ON position or only when cranking in the START position? I started messing with the connections on the coil and I found a blue wire that was hooked up to the negative post of the coil(In the picture below my finger is pointing to it). This is not the same blue wire that is linked to the F.I. harness, this one comes from the stock 260z harness to the negative post on the coil. When i transferred over the ZXT turbo coil to my car, I used the stock coil bracket from the 260z and hooked up everything back to the turbo coil how it was hooked on the 260z coil(or so i think). I found that if remove this wire from the negative post on my coil, the coil stops making the weird spark click I was hearing and when I crank the motor over without this wire connected the motor doesn't kick again after I crank it. This could be what gollum was talking about when he said something was being grounded that didn't need to be. With it removed it basically solves the problems i was having, but where does this wire go(second picture below shows the wire going back into the stock harness)?

Update. So i had a chance to work on the z today and this is what I changed. I installed the new starter, cut the yellow/black ignition wire at the harness of ignition switch and ran new wire from the point where I cut it, all the way to the connection on the starter. I also sanded all of my grounds again to the metal, just to make sure. I went to crank the car and it actually cranks fine now, but it still won't fire.When the key is switch to the "ign" position i still hear the click from the coil or the dizzy in about 2second intervals. Another weird thing it does is if I crank it in the "start" position when I let go and the car stops cranking the motor will kick once more by itself after a few second(about 2). I have a new ignition switch that i was going to install, but I'm not sure if that would help.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but i believe its ok to go from a system that it is low impedance to a high impedance injector. There's a thread in the fuel delivery section of a member going from low impedance injectors to high impedance injector on his stock 280z L28.

I'll try changing to 0 gauge battery cables. Are you also suggesting I add another ground strap along with the one i have already, as you see in my previous post? If so should it be from a transmission bolt to a spot on the frame?