Domesticated

Zip code: 28115 Qty 1 short sleeve XXXL dark heather Edit: are tshirts only available up to 2XL? If so thats ok

Small update: I haven't done much to the car but drive it lately. She is up to about 1500 miles. Getting closer to ordering some new suspension parts. 2-3 weeks ago, on a Sunday afternoon out for a drive I performed an... overly ambitious... 1-2 shift and broke a U-joint on the passenger side axle. I swapped out the stub for the later 27-spline piece with new lug studs, bearings and seal and swapped in the Z31T CV axle with flipped cage. Seems to be working perfectly. Now I just need to do the driver side axle before I break another U-joint. The snap was a lot less violent than I would have ever expected it to be, luckily I wasn't going too fast and pulled over quickly, so the axle flopping around in the control arm didn't do any damage. Also, noticeably less "clunk" in the driveline now, even with just one axle swapped. I also got a pair of Skillard door panels:

Dyno pull video

Thanks! Yeah I can't be too disappointed with the numbers, for a mostly stock 5.3 and tiny cam. The car is plenty fun to drive, and the low end torque is the best part. I don't have much in the way of traction issues; if I lay into the throttle in first it will spin but it hooks really well in second. I'm leery of the stock u-joint axles, so I haven't bothered launching the car and mostly just roll into it, but the 235 wide R888s are working out pretty decent. With another 100hp that might be a different story. I'm going to try and drive it to the dump this week and get on a scale; I'm very curious what the car currently weighs.

We had my car on the dyno today. Confirmed that I need more cam... maybe I need to build a motor... Ha. I'm happy with it for now. Final Numbers: 314hp @ 6000rpm / 316tq @ 4500rpm

The brakes are working fine, but the front doesn't have much bite. The commuter-car pads aren't going to cut it... I need to get those Carbotech pads. Also dreaming of a dual reservoir setup with rear balance adjustment.

Diligent Glass out of Denver, NC. (704) 677-4366 You'll probably speak to Doug. I know him through my work, so he may have hooked me up a bit - your quote may vary! Tell him Mark at PCM referred you.

Here's a little video I made today with some exterior sound clips and a ride-around. https://youtu.be/PzCMkmQke1c

I got the windshield replaced this week. It cost $220 installed, not including the new seal which I provided. The new glass looks fantastic, I couldn't be more happy with how it turned out... wasn't sure what to expect with aftermarket glass. They laid down a coat of rust preventative before installing, and I was pretty happy with the lack of rust underneath the old seal. To christen the fresh glass, I slapped on a windshield banner for the company I work for. Its a reflective black vinyl that looks like a matte black in the shade, but has light reflective properties and is more visible in the sunlight. I haven't seen what it looks like at night but its supposed to be somewhat translucent. Not much else has happened. Trying to figure out a vibration in the steering wheel around 45mph. I think the front tires are out of balance. I've roughed in the alignment and want to get it on a laser rack to set the toe, but the car tracks and drives great. I've put about 500 miles on it in the last week, driving it to work every day and a few cruise-ins last Saturday and Friday night. I've been working on the tune as I drive it, and its getting pretty close. Hoping we can make time for it on the dyno this week and see what its making to the tires. Hotrod cruise-in last night, my buddy owns the Gremlin... the two of us were a bit of an odd couple there Oh, almost forgot one of the most important additions... cupholders! This is pretty ghetto, but I needed somewhere to set down a beverage.

Title work sorted out, and got the registration and license plate today! Just in time for the weekend. The car is currently up on jack stands getting new brakes. The rear is done, just waiting for new StopTech front rotors which will be here tomorrow. I am so looking forward to this weekend, I can't wait to put some miles on the car and work on the street tune. I plan to record a driving video and under-load exhaust clips. New s13 rear rotors from local auto parts store, and Hawk HPS pads for the rear

No, I was referring to the unreliable factory style turning off in the middle of the night!

Sonofabitch! I knew I was missing something.... The pads that came off the rear were pretty new and I couldn't get the piston to go in any further so I thought was all the way retracted... I've never seen the turn-style piston. Sheesh So, I went to the auto parts store this afternoon and bought the tool for a 3/8-drive ratchet for $10, turned them in and everything went back together perfectly now, using the s13 rear rotor! As for the D137, I had already checked summit because I can order on my work's wholesale account, and even searching by application (I used 85 Toyota 4Runner) I came up with all those same options. Just basic Raybestos, Bendix, etc... nothing performance oriented. But its all good, I will run cheap ceramic pads for now. I know a Carbotech dealer that is going to try and find something for me to fit or retrofit on the fronts if I ever get into time attack or track days. I think for the street and auto-x the regular pads will be fine. I ordered StopTech slotted front 240z rotors for the front of the car, maybe next time I need brakes I'll upgrade to the early 300zx rotors/spacers.

Cool, I'll look into that some more. I searched real quick for D137 but didn't find much. I will probably throw a cheap set of local autoparts store $25 ceramic pads on and see how it feels. For the rear I already have a set of Hawk HPS pads, but with the awful front/rear proportioning I should be okay. I would really like to run HPS or HP+ on the front, I've used those pads on several other cars and they worked out well (from a 2100lb Miata, to a 3800lb Pontiac GTO, neither of which is known for its braking ability) but Hawk doesn't sell them from what I've been able to find. I went to my local Advance Auto and got a stock s13 rear rotor. The measurements seemed pretty darn close, so I thought I would try it. But the rotor doesn't seem to sit in the right place in the caliper and with everything bolted up it all binds and you can't turn it at all. I bolted the wheel and tire on and still couldn't budge it. I thought maybe there was tension on the e-brake with the new pads and everything, so I adjusted that all the way out to where I had no tension on the e-brake, but still no difference. Here are some pics of the rear brake setup, and comparison between the two rotors, as you can see the depth is different.

I will post some pictures tonight for clarification, thanks for your help. The old/narrow S12 brakes don't have many good options for brake pads, thats for sure...

That sounds like tons of fun.... not!

I'm a non-observant idiot. My rotors that I thought were vented just have like a vent-looking slit on the outer edge, I never looked at them thoroughly enough to realize that they are in fact solid discs. DOH My calipers are also clearly the narrow S12+8, based on the groove machined in the caliper in this pic: So, I just need stock 70-73 front rotors and I'm 99.9% sure I need 280zx rear rotors.

That is pretty cool, but I don't actually have any factory wiring and I am not utilizing the column mounted combo switch. All the wiring was ripped out and replaced with a universal hotrod harness/fuse panel, and I am using a GM-style headlight switch. I will probably make something like that for my car using a relay when I have time and want to mess with wiring again.

Ah, I didn't realize there were two versions of the standard 12+8 caliper! So there are actually three different s12 calipers... sheesh. I will look more closely at what I have tomorrow and look at the machining on the bottom side to see if I can figure out which I have. The rotors that are currently on my car certainly are vented, but they're not 84-85 300zx non-turbo rotors, and there are no spacers... so I don't know what they are.

Yeah, I understand the difference between drilled and vented. The rotors that came off my car are both drilled and vented, they're fairly thick. I don't really want to replace them with drilled rotors, I would prefer just slotted or even solid - but my primary issue is I do not know which application to order for. I do, however want to make sure to get vented rotors. As for the calipers, so you think I have the normal width S12+8 79-85 caliper? The piston size is useful info, thank you! I know they look different from some of the S12W pics I've seen, but I can't find many good pictures.

Ok, I've read thru the brake FAQ and so many different posts that I've gone and confused myself. Just trying to figure out exactly what I already have so I can buy new rotors. I believe what I have here is the S12W calipers for vented rotors, which makes sense considering the rotors on my car are vented. There is NO spacer between the rotor/hub, so if I understand things correctly I have stock size 70-73 front rotors? The diameter is ~10.65 and the rotor bolt pattern is 4 x 4-1/16". If this isn't true, what the heck do I have? If this IS true, what would be the benefit of getting spacers and 84-85 300zx non-turbo front rotors? On the rear I know I have S13 240sx calipers, but I'm confused about the rotors. Currently on my car are ~10.125" diameter vented rotors. I thought I needed 84 300zx non-turbo rear rotors, so I ordered cheap solid face rotors for that application, but what I received was NOT vented and way too big at 11.4" diameter. Do I need 280zx rear rotors? s13?? Thanks for any help/insight/advice/recommendations!

A few updates, still waiting for title to come in from the state and I am hoping to have it this week so I can finally register the car. I wanted to use an old-school foot operated dimmer switch and needed somewhere to mount that, so I went to a local Nascar parts recycling warehouse (SRIperformance.com - check them out if you're ever in the area) hoping to find something with dimple-die holes in it that I could retrofit as a dead pedal. I did find a bracket that worked great, though the holes weren't dimple died. I think it turned out great, and it is very comfortable for my left foot. Dead pedal! I got all the wiring finished! All lights, horn, turn signals, etc... are now functioning including a 3rd brake light and way too bright license plate light (both LED strip). I found that the stock headlights were super dim, so I replaced the sealed beams with Hella H4 housings. High beams look great now, low beams still very dim. I don't think they're getting full voltage, either a wiring issue or something with the headlight switch or dimmer switch. I may need to re-wire the headlights with relays so they have a good clean 12v source... will look into that further soon. I can live with it for now. Lit up: 3rd brake light! LED strip light, 1/2" aluminum 90* stock, and some brake light lens repair tape for a makeshift "housing" New H4 headlights: Heat shields/mats on catalytic converters, driver side touches floor, needs some finessing of the exhaust to be perfect. Floor is noticeably cooler. I bought 10" wide rear wheels to replace the existing 8s, to get the most out of the 235 tire and fill out the fender flares a bit more. They came in last week, so I got the rear tires switched over. 15x10 -25 et Front 225 on 8" vs Rear 235 on 10" width: On car: I decided that there isn't much room for adjustment or creativity when mounting the Brinkworth rear flares. They pretty much have to go in one spot, so I went ahead and mounted them. They still need some work to be perfect, but I am not going to waste a ton of time on them until I do the bodywork and repaint the entire car. A quick scuff and flat black for now. I've also painted the rocker to match up to the rear flare, and continued the red pinstripe from the front bumper. It really, REALLY needs coilovers now... And, when I was cutting up the rear quarter panels, I found a sickening, scary amount of bondo Never had a magnet on the car before, seems the rear quarters are by far the worst spots, I can feel magnetism about everywhere else on the car. The driver side had at least 3/8-1/2" of bondo over the wheel arch, the passenger side not as bad but still easily a 1/4"... Some of you will probably cringe at my metal work here, I wasn't able to weld the inner fender sheetmetal to the rear quarter, so I riveted it together and covered with seam sealer. After finding all that bondo and repair work, I really didn't have the drive to do it really nice. First cut, this isn't a good sign... cutoff wheel goes pretty far before striking metal! Chunk of bondo I chipped off: Drivers side, yeah that's quite a lot of bondo... Cut, hammer, fold, and rivet together. Cover with seam sealer. Works for me. Custom Datsun/Bowtie horn button. I forgot to take a picture in the car. Purchased from revlimiter.net Coming up: Brake overhaul and CV axle swap. I have on order new rotors for all four corners and Hawk HPS pads, should have that stuff this week. For CV axles, I'm doing Z31T axles with flipped cages and modified stock companion flanges. I bought a pair of 280z 27t spline stubs, and sent the companions to a guy on facebook to weld the adapters on. Several v8 guys drag racing with these, they should be plenty strong for me... at least as strong as the stock stub axle! I still need to buy new wheel bearings and stub axle nuts, then I'll get to doing this swap. Z31T axles bought locally, in pretty good shape. I am hoping that flipping the cages will be enough, if not I'll get shorter axle shafts. I want to lay the rest of my LMC sound control mat in the floor, get some on the firewall and in the doors, then I need to get some carpet in the front and on the trans tunnel. I also need to install the panels in the rear of the car to cover the inner fenders and taillight area, and a few minor details like that. But mostly, she's ready to drive! I need to work on the tune a bit more, and I may get a Tilton 7/8 clutch master cylinder. I'm not liking the 3/4 CNC master I currently have. The engagement travel is fairly short, and the pedal is stiff toward the bottom of its travel, which I think is the rod going into the master less than straight. Oh! And Friday I am getting the windshield replaced. A friend of mine is a windshield installer, said he could get one and quoted me $220 installed so I am pulling the trigger on that!

Today was exhaust day! Materials: JTR headers w/fabbed 3" 90-degree turnouts (were already on car) Summit Racing ball/socket flanges (stainless steel) Thunderbird (ebay brand) 3" universal high flow cats (4" OD, stainless, I'm running cats to cut down on rasp) Pypes 3" X-Pipe "trans tunnel" kit (stainless steel) (4x) Summit Racing 90* mandrel bends (stainless) Spintech Super Pro Street mufflers (#9441, mild steel) 4" polished tips (rolled, slanted edge) I think it turned out really well and I couldn't be happier with the sound.

150 for a pair?? Or do you mean each?

What is a typical/fair price for a pair of good condition Z31T axles?

I painted and pinstriped the front spoiler today... I think it improved the look of the nose by 1000%