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Daphur280

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Posts posted by Daphur280

    Brake Woes

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    I think your flex line is ok as long as the bleeder screw is above the flex line inlet on the caliper. I would bet a stack you have air trapped in the calipers. Remove the calipers and turn them so the bleed screw is the highest point and bleed again. I got a bunch of air out of mine even after doing the same thing while gravity bleeding, mine needed the flow of the pressure bleeder to push out the air. Take the caps off the master and watch the fluid level as you pump up the brakes, you'll see the level drop in the master if you have air in either the front or back systems. Mine only needed the back but it was enough to have a soft pedal.

     

    So you're saying I should vacuum/pressure bleed the calipers unmounted from the rotors?

    5 Speed into a 240Z

    in Drivetrain

    Posted · Edited by Daphur280

    you will need the 5 Speed shifter. I modified my shifter by cutting a bit at the bends in the shifter and mad a smaller angle at each bend and had them welded so I could still use the rubber boot from the 240z. Otherwise it might tear it up or pop it out of 2nd and forth if your hand is not on the shifter. Otherwise same D/S and mounts should work.

    Brake Woes

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    I would check the master to make sure it didn't go bad . You can remove the brake lines then plug the holes ( at master ) , press the pedal ( slowly ) down to see if it's firm and holds pressure . You could have a master that's bleeding through .

     

    As in bleeding through into the booster? If its not bleeding through it (the pedal) shouldn't move at all right?

    Brake Woes

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Some of the popular brake swaps end up with the bleed bolt at a position other than the very top, where the air is.  The bleeder needs to be where the air is, otherwise fluid flows past but doesn't take the air with it.  You might have to remove a caliper mounting bolt to rotate the bleeder to the top for bleeding then put it back for use.

     

    Just something to check, I'm not familiar with the details of your swap.

     

     

    Everything is oriented correctly, I made this mistake the first time I put on my Toyota calipers

     

     

    Too many people never follow up with a solution.  Be sure to post your solution(s)  once you are able to get a firm pedal.

     

    I'm gonna rebelled everything twice over and let you know

    Brake Woes

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Check bleed valve orientation.

     

    as in how tight/deep are the bleeder valves?

     

    So you just installed the master? Reaction disk or master pushrod adjustment are my guesses if that's the case.

     

    Its been installed before moving, and I had pressure, then I bled the system, test drove, bench bled the master, then bled the system, then test drove again.

    Brake Woes

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    So nearing the point of getting my Z back on the road and I am having severe brake bleeding issues.

    Its a 73 240z w/ Toyota S12+ (non vented), '85ish Maxima rear brakes with DatsunPartsLLC brackets, and 15/16 Master Cylinder, and braided lines front and rear.

     

    Calipers and master cylinder were good prior to install.

     

    In a hurry (because I was moving) I put the master cylinder, bled the system and actually had pressure throughout the system, it was loaded onto a flatbed and towed to where I'm at now. I finished installing the e-brake, ran the car and I have squishy pedal, no pressure or brakes until I pump the brake pedal 3 times.

     

    I pulled the Z back in the garage and noticed upon the 3rd or 4th brake pedal pump and on it would "hiss" at the last inch of pushing the pedal.

     

    I bench bled the MC, re-bled the system, and still the same story, no pressure until I pump the brakes in rapid sequence and on the 3rd or 4th press. Also I'm noticing when I bleed the rear brakes I'm barely getting any fluid coming out, or at least no where as near as much as I do in the front. I have no signs of leaking anywhere (lines, brakes, distribution blocks, MC, booster), and I am at a loss.

     

    I'm considering taking it to a brake shop and have them bleed it with a brake flusher (so it bleeds all 4 corners at the same time). But I'm on a budget and would rather save the $$.

     

    Any ideas?

    Another T3/T40e internal wastegate woe

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    Similarly to this post: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113455-internal-wastegate-t3t4-woes/

     

    I am running into a similar issue.

     

    My lever arm was at a funky angle, so I attempted to "clock" the turbo to get the appropriate angle, in addition the inlet was pointing straight out into the inner fender, so I needed to clock the angle to install the piping. 

     

    Once it was clocked where I needed it the lever arm is out of reach from the flapper assembly. Its at the correct angle from the flapper, so that its 90 deg. but its about 1" off.

     

    5803d883-f4b5-455b-b0df-6cfda8616dae.jpg

     

    null-2.jpg

     

    null-1.jpg

     

    So can I adjust the lever arm (unscrew) so that it reaches or leave it be and figure something else out?

     

    Also, should I be concerned about the housing touching the manifold?

     

    null-3.jpg

     

     

    Z31 N/A ECU, Harness, MAF, Dizzy, into 73 l28et question

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    So I'm finally getting around to putting the Z31 goodies into my 240z, Currently have an '83 L28et in it.

     

    Putting this out there before any mentions the phrase "Use the Search"  -  "z31" "ecu" "MAF" does not come up because its less than 4 characters.

     

    So I have the complete harness which I intend to use, an 89 N/A z31 ecu, the JW dropping resistors, MAF, chopper wheel and dizzy. I believe I have everything needed other than sense of direction. I was simply gonna start wiring things from the z31 harness to all the components: sensors, dizzy, injectors, etc. A bit of the confusion comes in from wiring the fuel pump. From my understanding from the Z31 ecu on 280zxt thread, the pump is wired differently. However my fuel pump and pump relay are wired independently from the 280zxt wiring harness in my 240z. I've wired it to direct 12v and a switch.

     

    Also looking for other things that can be removed from the z31 harness (I think I read that somewhere if being wired into a 240z).

     

    Can anyone point me in the right direction?

    MOMO pedal set

    in Miscellaneous Tech

    Posted

    I went through the same thing with the MOMO pedals. Here's what I did:

     

    I got some thin foam pad to put between the gas pedals. This helps the curve differences. I was thinking about trying to bend the pedal, but I didn't want to damage anything.

     

    Get a longer screw for the hole that is over the rod. Trim the back of the screw as flush as possible once it's installed so that it doesn't snag on the carpet. I did this first and it worked just fine. A few days later, I couldn't leave good enough alone, I tried taking a small grinder to the rod so the screw could be even more flush on the back but this was just a bunch of unneccesary work if you ask me.

     

    On more thing I did was trim the oem gas pedal so the would be the same length. On my set the MOMO pedal was about 2in. shorter than the oem. I guess Italians have small feet...

     

    Hope this helps. I'll try and get some pics. My car is in pieces right now so we'll see....

     

    Pics?

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