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About derekkg

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    Rochester, New York
  1. Awesome, thanks for the advice. I have the fork ring rods, they are just c clips that stop the rods from going too far backwards, not forwards. I didn't think about that...I pulled the detent balls and pins out when I took it apart, maybe they help. I'll put them back and see if that solves it (although it doesn't explain how it happened in the first place)
  2. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5N_fYOaC113MUpsSmExTkY2SlU/view?usp=sharing Here is a video of it in 3rd gear too. I actually managed to get it stuck in 2nd gear too, by pushing the coupling ring into 2nd gear, about halfway out, and then all the way back into gear again. This is interesting. Where is the roll pin? I don't see it in either diagram. I checked the fork on the rod. It seems ok, because when all 3 rods are lined up in neutral, the forks and coupling rings are all in neutral. Is there a better way to check that? Is the fork position on the shifting rod adjustable? Thanks for those links! I also meant to mention that the 3rd gear synchro was nearly non existent when the trans was still shifting, it often would grind when going into 3rd. I wonder if that synchro getting worn down caused the coupling ring to move further than normal
  3. Hi Everybody, My transmission recently got stuck in 4th gear. It is a 3 piece design, I believe one of the earlier "type a" designs: http://www.zcarz.us/TechnicalInformationPageTransmission.htm I dropped it out of the car this weekend and tore it down. I think I found the source of the problem, but I don't know what the solution is. Any help would be appreciated. I took a video I took talking and showing what I think the problem is: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5N_fYOaC113bFZRVDRjN0s4VDA/view?usp=sharing It seems like there might be a few problems. The input shaft with 4th gear on it can slide in and out a few mm, but I think that would be solved when it is back in the case and the c clip is locking the main input bearing in place. The bigger problem seems to be that the coupling sleeve (#10) is going too far forward, allowing the "Shifting insert" (#11) and "Spread spring" (#12) to pop up behind the coupling sleeve and get stuck (See attached diagram). The only way I can get it out of 4th after that happens is to push the 3 shifting inserts down under the coupling sleeve manually, and then pull it back. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this? Do the shifting inserts need something to keep them from popping out? Or does the sleeve and fork have a mechanism to prevent it from going so far forward that needs to be fixed? It also might be worth mentioning that all of the detent balls and springs are removed. Here is a different video I took showing the stuck inserts as I try to get it out of 4th. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5N_fYOaC113b05YUnI5SWlzejA/view?usp=sharing Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
  4. Thanks! I already contacted 1 tuff z, but he didn't have anything available. Thanks though!
  5. I am looking for a transmission for my 71 240z in the greater upstate New York area, specifically Rochester. My trans has been stuck in 4th gear for nearly a month now, and I'd rather just swap it with a working on to get it back on the road as soon as possible. I'd rather not ship it, but I am willing to drive 4-5 hours to grab one, so if anyone knows of one for sale in New York, Pennsylvania, Northern Ohio, etc. that would be awesome While a 5 speed would be prefered, anything will work. Thanks!
  6. Ah right, I forgot about that. Cool! thanks!
  7. Really? You are saying megasquirt will be simpler than using a '76 ecu? I can see it, there aren't many components a megasquirt needs to run. How difficult is it to get a good baseline tune on the megasquirt? Can the autotune feature do that for you? I am also thinking about swapping to the 76 ecu first, and then swapping from there to megasquirt, just so I can know what it should run at before going to the standalone. Is it harder to get the 76 ecu to work rather than just going straight to a megasquirt though? Either way I am getting a wideband installed, so that should help me monitor the fuel management Like I said to Tony, I found a source for a 76 fuel tank locally. That should be baffled I believe. Really? Are the 240z return lines capable of FI? What would the drawbacks be? Thanks!!
  8. Awesome! Right now we are planning on going south and maybe up Route 66 a little, so I doubt we will make it to Colorado, but plans may change. Interesting. You are saying to use a more modern air measurement like a MAF? And for idle control a simple on off valve will work? Does the megasquirt still control this? Do you have any examples of one? Thanks again!
  9. Ah, that was my mistake, I didn't phrase that very well. When I said "New head and engine gaskets" I meant it had a new head gasket and new engine gaskets. Sorry. The car was running pretty rich when I got it (at 4500 ft) in Reno, but it ran well. It leaned out a little when I got it back to sea level but it still runs pretty rich. Like I said in my response to Tony though, it made it on a ~ 5 hour journey with no major problems. oh, I didn't know that the temp sensor was in the AFM, that makes sense. I am thinking about using a stock ECU also, so I am at least considering using the AFM. I forgot to mention this in the original post, but I mentioned it in response to Tony above. Wheel bearings are all quiet, suspension bushings are all recently replaced with what appears to be new poly bushings. The transmission shifts well (although the synchros on 3rd seem to be gone) I think I may have just found those parts earlier today. See my response to Tony above. I think I may have found most of the mechanical parts I need for a swap locally for a great price. Thats great advice though, I should definitely get all the parts I need together before I start taking it apart and make it non running Thanks! This forum seems really active and helpful!
  10. Just curious, what would you say is the biggest source of trouble? Are you saying the fuel injection itself is troublesome and carbs are better? Or just the tight timeline to do the swap before a major trip is asking for trouble? Thanks! I am seriously considering a 4bbl Throttle body injection kit also. It looks like it will be a little out of my budget though. Some craigslist parts might bring it back down though
  11. Wow! I got way more responses than I expected. I'll have to be more diligent in checking this. First, there were a few things that I didn't make clear, and a few details I should have added that would have helped clarify my situation. My mistake, I will attempt to clarify in my responses below. Also, today I found somebody close by who is willing to sell me all of the following for a very reasonable price. It's all from a '76 280z: - Intake Manifold (with injectors) - Air intake temp sensor - Water Temp Sensor - Air Flow sensor - Throttle body - Fuel Pressure Regulator - Fuel Pump - Gas Tank (should be baffled) - ECU As far as I can tell this will be most everything I need to get a really good start parts wise. I also ordered a wideband O2 sensor and gauge. My thinking is no matter what method I choose it will be useful. I can see it being helpful if I stick with carbs for tuning, if I use the '76 ECU I can see how well it can manage the pieced together motor, and if I go standalone (MS) I will need it for closed-loop operation This is good to know! What route(s) did you take? I am mostly concerned about altitude performance. We are starting in the Bay Area of CA and taking a southern route and then heading up to Rochester, NY to end it. I am afraid that between mountain passes, hot deserts, and humid south, the carbs might be a little difficult to work with. Carb tuning is also not my specialty. I am much more familiar with fuel injection. Sounds like it is possible to get some pretty reliable operation from the carbs though! Awesome! Thanks for the catch, I actually found a tank that I think will work, see above Other details I didn't think to mention: I bought the car in Reno, and then immediately drove it back to the bay. Started in Reno, drove over Donner Pass in a rainstorm, and then drove all the way back to the bay. 5.5 hours straight with no serious issues after sitting for a couple of months from the PO. Not a bad first impression Other pluses I didn't mention: - Toyota 4 piston front calipers - New rear wheel cylinders - Aluminum radiator and electric fan (It stayed at the middle or lower the whole way back, even through Sacramento - New drive shaft - Ground control coilovers (This was a bit confusing from the PO, I think they were ground control lowering springs on MR2 stock rear struts and 240z rear struts in the front) - New suspension bushings everywhere. They are all red and hard, so I am assuming polyurethane Also Tony, I can't help but notice you are from Reno. That is a shame, I wish I had known about you earlier, I could have taken it there to get a more experienced view on it. Also, I am trying to track down the owner who built this. I have a lot of questions, but unfortunately the kid I bought it from lost the previous owner's information sometime in the 4 years he owned it. Do you know anyone in the Reno area who built a Z like this 4-5 years ago?
  12. Hey Everybody, New member and first time poster here. I just purchased a 71 240z (last weekend!) that has had a pretty decent amount of engine work done to it. Attached is a picture I took about 10 minutes after I bought it. I have some big plans for the car and unfortunately not a ton of time to do them. I plan on taking the car across the country in less than 1 month! The biggest priority and really the only major thing I want to do before the drive is to swap the car to EFI. I think I have gathered a list of everything I will need, but I would appreciate any help! First, the motor that is currently in it: 2.8 F54 block with Flat top pistons from a 280zx w/ 168k miles P90 from an 82 280zx Turbo with 179k miles New head and engine gaskets New water pump Turbo Oil Pump and Turbo head bolts 280zx distributor and alternator MSD Blaster coil Aluminum radiator, electric fan Dual SU sidedraft carbs After looking at a lot of options, it would seem like my best, easiest, fastest, and cheapest option would be to swap an EFI manifold and intake system from a 75-78 280z and use mostly stock parts, but run it with a MegaSquirt. The other major option I was looking at was using a Throttle body intake, but almost all of those kits seem to cost way too much. Another option seems to be to use a GM throttle body, but the adapter plates I found seem to be much too expensive, plus with dual carbs it seems like I would need 2 throttle bodies, which increases price. So it would seem like I need the following from a 280z: - Intake Manifold - Fuel Injectors - Fuel pump - Fuel Pressure Regulator - Throttle with TPS - Coolant Temperature Sensor - Intake Air Temperature Sensor - Air Flow meter - Cold start valve (Whats that?) - Air regulator (idle air control valve?) The attached picture is basically where I got this list from. And then I could run the whole thing from a MegaSquirt 1 with a wideband O2 in the exhaust. (Standalone seems to be easier since it is not a stock motor, plus I am interested in learning) Is there anything else I would need? What should I be looking for? Is this really the easiest EFI swap, or am I missing a much easier one. Thank you so much everybody! Any help is greatly appreciated!
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