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About Jersey

  • Birthday 10/19/1967

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    Northern NJ

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  1. Hey all from NJ. I'll be building a rotisserie in the near future for my '73 240 and just was hoping i could get a couple of questions answered from those who have done it. I've read and accumulated pages of info on building one but want to be clear on these items before i start welding. My Z is a '73 240 with the entire drive train, front & rear suspension, tank, doors, hatch and interior removed. Front glass and dash will remain. I'll be using 2 engine stands that will bolt to the front and rear bumper mounting locations. I'm sure this is slightly different for all setups but best guess from experience - Is 4" above both the front and rear bumper mounts about right for the center of the pivot point? I'll be connecting the 2 engine stands together for stability. Will 40" from the ground up to the center of the pivot point be enough to allow the Z to rotate 360 degrees without hitting this connection between the 2 stands? Thanks, Jersey
  2. Rust on drivers side is/was pretty bad. I've already replaced the passenger side floor and support rail with Zedds pieces, halfway up the firewall, under the battery box & both front frame rails already. Right now, the drivers side floor, outer rocker and dogleg are cut out. I've even got the new tabco outer rocker and dogleg to replace but the lower half of the inner rocker is wasted, and knowing how much the rocker is considered structural, i'm just hesitant in tackling. May just come down to sucking it up and doing it. Thanks for the eyeballs out there in Idaho but i'm thinking the shipping cost from that far west would put me over what i'd like to spend. Thanks for the replies.
  3. Hey all. I'm looking for an S30 shell with minimal rust. Unfortunately, my 240's just about unrecoverable and thinking a full swap to a cleaner chassis may be my best bet. Feel free to send me a private message with what you have and what you want. Thanks in advance, Jersey
  4. Thanks. I did see his posts a while back and may contact him if nothing pans out here. Appreciate the heads up. - Jersey
  5. Looking for the DS inner rocker, front to rear. I know, long shot but thought i'd ask. Any donor cars around here in NJ? Thanks in advance, Jersey
  6. Thanks guys. Not sure which direction I'm going yet, just wanted to make sure it's all lined up properly when I'm done.
  7. Thanks guys. I'm measuring about 40 1/8" so it may be out a bit. I think once I replace all the rusted metal, that measurement will tighten up a bit. Here's the best shot I could take for reference of how I was measuring. Thanks again.
  8. Jersey


  9. Thanks. I'll try to get a pic up tonight after work. I was taking the measurement by laying the tape on top of the passenger side frame rail, nosed up against the firewall and stretching it right to where it's welded to the radiator support. Sort of tough to get an exact measurement since it's tight in there but, I figured something down to the 1/16th would work. I pulled the motor/trans out the other night to inspect the area because I knew the rust was getting bad, but didn't realize just how bad. Actually, I'm very lucky I did this because the end of frame rail rusted (damn battery acid) and has separated from the rusted out firewall section. It would have been pretty ugly if that right front let loose while driving. I realized this morning that I probably should have posted this in the "Brakes, wheels, suspension, chassis" forum but don't think I can move it now. Moderators - please move if you feel it should be over there. Sorry about that. - Jersey
  10. I'm hoping someone could get me a measurement of the passenger side frame rail, from the radiator support to where it meets the firewall. Just the top length would be great. The more precise, the better. Thanks in advance, Jersey
  11. Thanks Dexter. You're seeing it right, rear wheel openings are off. PO did a sh*t job which I intend to redo right. Everything else on it is pretty solid. I've dropped the @ss a bit since this pic but still needs to be lower. The 80's look isn't doing it for me. lol. I've had my '73 for I think near 13 years now. The deal with the wife was, trade the silver '77 and sell the '73 and get the Camaro. I seem to be having a real tough time putting the Z up for sale though Maybe I'll wait until spring when the market to sell cars is a little better. By then, I may decide to put the Camaro up instead of the Z. Sorry about the links not working for you but they do open when I click on them (?) They were posted a long time ago on here but maybe with the album changes over the years they need to be moved. I'll check into it.
  12. Yes, my '73 in the background would eat it for breakfast... for now '67 with a mildly built 350...
  13. Thanks Steve. Got it - Oil squirt hole on right, stamped #'s on left. Good find. - Jersey
  14. Hey all. If you have a set of connecting rods lying around, could you please tell me if the oil passage that goes up through the rod is on the same or opposite site as the cylinder # stamp on the bottom edge of each rod & cap. Thanks in advance. - Jersey
  15. I understand and do appreciate your reply NewZed. I'm just looking for some hands-on concrete info. I'm sure a bunch of HybridZ'rs have done this swap and was hoping they'd share their findings. I've read many posts from many sites that have conflicting information and was just hoping to get it all sorted out. Thanks.
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