Mirage775

Hey Pallnet, I emailed you today, asking about a rail. Email me back whenever it's convenient?

I've looked at the FSM and online at tons of pics, but can't quite figure out if my vacuum lines/hoses are ran to the correct areas? I have 2 lines coming from the firewall, but only one is connected to the vacuum box thingy? Has anyone got a better diagram I could use or if I post pics of mine, can you tell me what goes where? Previous owner had a bunch of them unplugged.... Thanks

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Thanks for all the help everyone! It'll be a couple weeks before I get back to the car. It only has 110k miles on it and like I said everything was working prior to pulling the old engine? I can't say anything about the spigot, Chas, as an old school mechanic friend of my dads helped me swap everything. He put my old flywheel, clutch and PP on one day when I wasn't there. I'll look into replacing both slave cylinders, if bleeding doesn't do the trick. I've never been good with transmissions...

OK, no synchro is good news, lol! It's the original trans. I'm hoping bleeding will fix it, but I won't get to try until next weekend or later... Same clutch and PP. Not sure what you mean by spigot bearing, but we used an alignment tool to get everything, aligned... The clutch has to be disengaging or it wouldn't go into the other gears, correct? I'm hoping it's just got air in the lines, but I still don't understand why all the forward gears shift fine, but reverse doesn't....?

Pulled my blown engine and swapped it with a rebuilt block last weekend. Every gear shifted fine, including reverse. Fired it up last week, went to 1st, and it grinded a little, checked the slave cylinder and it was dry? I just filled it up before the engine blew. Anyway, we got 1st through 5th to shift without grinding, but reverse grinds, just a little and won't go in, unless the car's not running, then, it'll go right in and work after starting up. Please tell me the synchronizer isn't shot and the slave might just need bleeding? Thanks

Perhaps? Depends on price plus shipping?

I may be in need of an 83, or equivalent, 280ZX N/A short block (block, pan, crank, rods, pistons, rings)? Preferably together and in good condition? Close to North Alabama would be awesome as well, but I could drive further or would pay for shipping? Reply or shoot me a PM. Thanks!

Damnit! Well, if it is, I'll guess I'll replace it too, lol!

OK, thanks! Yeah, I knew the e-brake was mechanical, but doesn't it put the piston and clamp the rotor? The Z's backfiring and half-ass running, gonna take her to a real mechanic tomorrow, my shade-tree-ness ain't cuttin it, lol! As soon as I get her back, I'll try that with the reservoirs! The whole system was empty, as I put on new stainless brakes lines too. The old ones had fluid coming out... The rear calipers were also full of fluid, when I removed them. I'm sure it's something simple, I just wanna drive it, I'm tired of working on it...

Hey yall, I assumed all 4 brakes worked properly, before I removed them for new suspension? But, I bled my brakes the other day and the fronts had some air, that dissipated quickly and began to work again, very well actually! The rears, however, grab the rotors as long as the e-brake is on, but when we tried to bleed them, the passengers' side never had fluid or air coming out....? The drivers' side had a little air, then only fluid, but still never grabbed the rotor, when the pedal was pressed...? I went ahead and ordered rebuild kits, but if yall don't think that'll fix it, I'll just buy 2 new rotors? Or could the master cylinder be shot on the rear side, if that's even possible? Thanks for any help!

Thanks everyone! I think I'm just gonna block off the EGR spot on my '83 intake (since I have a header), and try to reroute all the lines as best as I can, to make it look less cluttered? I'm tired of dumping money into her... I may drive it a while and sell it and get a 350z, LOL!

Oh? Well, I've got a nice chrome VC and don't really want a black hose running to it... I've seen people put a bigger air cleaner thingy at the crankcase vent before? Would that be ok? I may drive the car, (when it's back together), maybe 4-8 times a month...

Hmm, of course, I'm leaving the brake booster line in, lol! If I can tap off another vacuum for the FPR, I will. I don't recall there being a line on my MAP? I have no BOV. I'm getting a rail from Pallnet, that is supposed to have the cold start valve in it? No clue how that works though, lol!? I was planning on hooking the crackcase hose to the bottom on the intake. And I have a little air filter plugged into the valve cover. Hopefully, I can eliminate all the EGR/Emissions crap and it still run?