Mirage775
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Posts posted by Mirage775
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I've looked at the FSM and online at tons of pics, but can't quite figure out if my vacuum lines/hoses are ran to the correct areas? I have 2 lines coming from the firewall, but only one is connected to the vacuum box thingy? Has anyone got a better diagram I could use or if I post pics of mine, can you tell me what goes where? Previous owner had a bunch of them unplugged.... Thanks
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Thanks for all the help everyone! It'll be a couple weeks before I get back to the car. It only has 110k miles on it and like I said everything was working prior to pulling the old engine? I can't say anything about the spigot, Chas, as an old school mechanic friend of my dads helped me swap everything. He put my old flywheel, clutch and PP on one day when I wasn't there. I'll look into replacing both slave cylinders, if bleeding doesn't do the trick. I've never been good with transmissions...
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There is no reverse synchro unless you've swapped in a late model 71C transmission. You could have sucked in a little air when the slave rod extended, as it was removed from the transmission. Bleeding would be the thing to do.
OK, no synchro is good news, lol! It's the original trans. I'm hoping bleeding will fix it, but I won't get to try until next weekend or later...
Just to add some other possibilities after bleeding the clutch.
Are you using the same clutch/pressure plate or one that came with the new block?
If its your original clutch, did you check the spigot bearing in the crankshaft.
Things that can cause your problem are:
-Air in you hydraulics reducing clutch travel.
-Dry or binding spigot bearing in the crank causing drag and not disengaging input shaft.
-Clutch disc sticking on input shaft splines and won't move away from flywheel not letting the clutch disengage. The clutch disc actually moves back and forth a small amount when disengaging and engaging.
-For some reason its fitted with an adjustable slave cylinder push rod with incorrect adjustment. Shouldn't be in a 280ZX, but possible.
Chas
Same clutch and PP. Not sure what you mean by spigot bearing, but we used an alignment tool to get everything, aligned... The clutch has to be disengaging or it wouldn't go into the other gears, correct?
Another item to check is the throwout bearing collar. The length of the of the collar must match the pressure plate height. If you changed the pressure plate it could be from a different year and needs longer collar.
I'm hoping it's just got air in the lines, but I still don't understand why all the forward gears shift fine, but reverse doesn't....?
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Pulled my blown engine and swapped it with a rebuilt block last weekend. Every gear shifted fine, including reverse. Fired it up last week, went to 1st, and it grinded a little, checked the slave cylinder and it was dry? I just filled it up before the engine blew. Anyway, we got 1st through 5th to shift without grinding, but reverse grinds, just a little and won't go in, unless the car's not running, then, it'll go right in and work after starting up. Please tell me the synchronizer isn't shot and the slave might just need bleeding? Thanks
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Hey,
I am beginning to remove the engine and trans from a 5 speed 79'. Are you interested in the long block? It has 69k and ran strong prior to taking it off the road.
Perhaps? Depends on price plus shipping?
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I may be in need of an 83, or equivalent, 280ZX N/A short block (block, pan, crank, rods, pistons, rings)? Preferably together and in good condition? Close to North Alabama would be awesome as well, but I could drive further or would pay for shipping? Reply or shoot me a PM. Thanks!
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Damnit! Well, if it is, I'll guess I'll replace it too, lol!
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OK, thanks! Yeah, I knew the e-brake was mechanical, but doesn't it put the piston and clamp the rotor? The Z's backfiring and half-ass running, gonna take her to a real mechanic tomorrow, my shade-tree-ness ain't cuttin it, lol! As soon as I get her back, I'll try that with the reservoirs! The whole system was empty, as I put on new stainless brakes lines too. The old ones had fluid coming out... The rear calipers were also full of fluid, when I removed them. I'm sure it's something simple, I just wanna drive it, I'm tired of working on it...
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Hey yall, I assumed all 4 brakes worked properly, before I removed them for new suspension? But, I bled my brakes the other day and the fronts had some air, that dissipated quickly and began to work again, very well actually! The rears, however, grab the rotors as long as the e-brake is on, but when we tried to bleed them, the passengers' side never had fluid or air coming out....? The drivers' side had a little air, then only fluid, but still never grabbed the rotor, when the pedal was pressed...? I went ahead and ordered rebuild kits, but if yall don't think that'll fix it, I'll just buy 2 new rotors? Or could the master cylinder be shot on the rear side, if that's even possible? Thanks for any help!
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Thanks everyone! I think I'm just gonna block off the EGR spot on my '83 intake (since I have a header), and try to reroute all the lines as best as I can, to make it look less cluttered? I'm tired of dumping money into her... I may drive it a while and sell it and get a 350z, LOL!
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If you're going to leave the valve cover breather open to atmosphere, you don't want to connect the crankcase hose to the intake. The valve/rocker arm cover cavity is connected to the crankcase.
The Pallnet rail will just have an extra port to supply fuel to the CSV. lol
Oh? Well, I've got a nice chrome VC and don't really want a black hose running to it... I've seen people put a bigger air cleaner thingy at the crankcase vent before? Would that be ok? I may drive the car, (when it's back together), maybe 4-8 times a month...
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Hmm, of course, I'm leaving the brake booster line in, lol! If I can tap off another vacuum for the FPR, I will. I don't recall there being a line on my MAP? I have no BOV. I'm getting a rail from Pallnet, that is supposed to have the cold start valve in it? No clue how that works though, lol!? I was planning on hooking the crackcase hose to the bottom on the intake. And I have a little air filter plugged into the valve cover. Hopefully, I can eliminate all the EGR/Emissions crap and it still run?
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Cool, did you remove any of the junk from the top and sides on the intake? If so, pics? Thanks!
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Hello, not sure if this should be posted here, but move it if necessary?
Anyway, I picked up a nice N42/non EGR intake over the weekend. I'm going to be removing as much emissions junk as possible on my car and wanted to ask a few things first. I did a test fit yesterday, with my 83' injectors/stock fuel rails and they acted like they wouldn't fit into the N42 intake? I'm going to be ordering a basic barbed fuel rail from Pallnet soon, so that my answer my first question? Next, would it be better to use a 240 TB and mount it to the N42 intake or just use '83 TB? If yes on the 240 TB, what year should I look for? I'd prefer the one without a cable throttle and no cruise control? I've looked on ebay, with zero results... Since we live in Alabama, we have no emission tests/inspections, and I just want to "clean up" the engine bay. I'm sorry if that will piss some of you purists off, but all the vacuum/emission lines over the EFI look absolutely horrible! I've done a ton of researching the last few days and just wanted a little more advice, from any of you that might've done this to your ZX? Thanks for any help! Jason
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Just try to find out if there is a swap kit (engine and trans mounts, header set) available from someplace like JTR or JCI. Then we get my buddy Terry to build you a budget 300hp old school small block from parts he has laying around. I think you could be driving 7s in the 1/8-mile) for less than $2000. Getting hard to find good manual trans for cheap....and you don't need a 6spd, although they are nice. I just went 148 in 4th gear.
I know JTR has several different V8 mounts as well as trans mounts too. It's about $300 for both. I'm unsure what JCI is? I would love to get a built 300 horse engine for less than 2k! I did find a Camaro T5 WC on craigslist for $250, locally, but talked to the guy one night and he didn't answer the next day...
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Hey yall, this swap is going to be at least a year away! I've got to do a ton of research before I go through with this build!
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Need a quick answer, are there any differences in connecting rods between an 82-83 ZX Turbo engine and a NA engine? Thanks!
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I have a 1975 280Z about like what your building.It started with a 260hp crate motor.I added a Lunati cam kit wit 4 degrees advance ground in and i advanced it another 4 for some good bottom end..,aluminum heads 64cc and aluminum intake with 750 vacuum sec.holley which doesnt work good with a stick...,,,fluid dampner,,roller rockers,,stud girdle,,block hugger headers with 3 inch exhaust and moroso mufflers...A t56 6 speed from 98 camaro..I am thinking close to 400hp and very pleased with the performance for street driving...It is very wicked to drive with that 6 speed if you wanna do any street racing..If you can get it to ever hook while your in 1st gear it will pull the front wheels in second gear..i am thinking about removing the 6 speed and putting a 700r4 with a 2800 stall converter to calm it down a little and then spraying it with a 250 shot of nitrous...If your only going to be just driving it for fun the t5 will be the fun way to go...........Your more than welcome to come ride in mine or drive it before you get started,
Awesome! Sorry for the delayed reply, it's been a hell of a week and it's still not over! You're about3-4 hours away from me, one way! A fellow member on here has almost got me interested in a 5.3 or 6.0 LS2 swap! I, hopefully, get to ride in his car next weekend? Either way I go, I need more info for a V8 swap into an S130 chassis, instead of most of yalls S30 chassis's... I'm going to do some more research on it this weekend, whenever I find the time, lol!
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Hello all, I think I've decided on doing a 350 swap into my 83 280zx. When I first bought the car, I thought about a full original resto. Then, thought about building a Stroker 3.1. Then, adding a turbo to my running NA and building it. Lastly, I thought about a RB25DET swap. Now, I think for what it will all cost and for power in the 300hp range, a 350 with a T-5 swap would be my best option? I had located a nice Camaro WC T5 a few weeks ago, but the guy would never return my call, after he said he still had it... So, I'm thinking about just looking at a new long block 260hp, from Summit. Maybe adding some aluminum heads and a nice cam. Probably going to buy the conversion kit from JTR within the next couple of weeks, once I, hopefully, get some feedback from all of yall?
I grew up with 1st gen Camaros and 55-66 Chevy trucks, so understanding a 350 with a carb is much easier for me, than a Datsun l6 with FI! I'm new to the Z's, but have loved them since I was a kid! I'm not looking to race or drag the ZX when it's finished, just looking for a nice little sleeper! So, if anyone has anything they'd like to tell me, it would be most appreciated!
Thanks, Jason
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Run the stock engine if it has no issues.
The stock engine control computer can not handle very much at all as far as upgrades...to the point that I belive it's just not worth hot-rodding with the stock computer. It will not handle any cam worth the effort and work to install, and will not return optimal results with the cams that are "computer friendly". It does, however, do quite a fine job controlling the stock engine, with all the stock sensors, wires, vacuum lines, and injectors. Make sure all your connections are clean and tight and that everything is hooked up properly, and it'll reward you with a reliable, long-running, peppy car.
If your engine had good bearing clearances and low leakdown test numbers, it'll be hard to re-build the engine to the same level of build quality it was when Nissan assembled it. If it was a solid engine before you tore it apart, you quite possibly didn't need a rebuild at all, even at 100,000 miles. It's hard to get matched sets of bearing shells to set the clearances as closely as Nissan did at the factory...they're available, but not easily anymore. Piston rings, too...I have used a number of sets of ITM pistons and rings...the rings are not bad but they are softer than the Nissan rings. ITM cast pistons are quite good and I've run them up much, much higher than I should in a few builds, with no major issues.
Exhaust, fuel rail, all that dress-up bit will look nice, but realize that you already have a cold air intake if you're running the stock airbox, that the Hitachi/Nissan starter that came installed on your engine is the same part Tilton and other manufacturers sell today as a "performance" item, and that your stock P90 head was factory-fitted with stainless steel valves and a 3 angle valve job.
The stock exhaust manifold is just as good as a header on a stock or stock-ish rebuild. If it's in good shape, it's quieter and more durable than any header.
The 60MM KA throttle body is more to make it easy to fit a few different aftermarket engine management systems than it is for airflow...the stock engine won't see any power or performance benefit from it. The stock 50mm throttle can handle quite a lot, remember you are only feeding one cylinder at a time, and as long as the throttle can re-fill the plenum volume between intake events, then it is not a restriction.
In short...if you're planning to run the stock computer, run a stock engine and all the stock equipment.
WOW! Thanks for the info. The engine I've been tearing down was a turbo engine that had almost 300K miles on it! The NA, that runs absolutely fine, in my 83 only has about 120K miles on it. It doesn't burn oil/smoke or anything. It just has a little valve noise, but if I get the P90 head worked, I'll put it on my engine. I have an oil leak somewhere on my NA engine, that's why I was gonna pull it and replace the front/rear seals and pan gasket. I do have a turbo ECM, if that would help with any performance upgrades?
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Sorry to ask this, I know it's probably been asked a million times, but I've been searching forums all day, trying to find a decent NA rebuild topic and come up with pretty much nothing....
Anyway, I've decided not to mess with a turbo or carb rebuild.... I've decided to just beef up the NA engine. I currently have a 82-83 Turbo block, that I have just about gotten totally disassembled. When I get it all torn down, I'm gonna carry it to the only speed shop in town and see if it can be bored .030"? Right now, they have my P90 head, doing a cleaning/pressure test on it. I asked them about regrinding my cam and said they could do it, but why would I want it done and it would probably cost more than an aftermarket came.... I'm not looking to race/drag/autocross it. I just want a nice little sports car, with a little more pep, without going turbo. So, here's what I'm wanting info on:
Aftermarket cam? No? Yes? If so, what would the specs need to be?
Polish/regrind stock cam?
Stock cam, no mods?
Pallnet fuel rail? I want as many vacuum lines gone as possible!
Headers - Which ones to buy? Ceramic coated?
2.5" or 3" exhaust?
What muffler should I run?
Aluminum Radiator with electric fans?
Complete .030" (with Flat Top Pistons), Rebuild kit from zcarsource.com?
Aftermarket distributor/coil/etc?
3 angle valve job or new SS valves?
New valve seals and springs?
Resurface Head, intake gasket side, head gasket side and valve cover side?
Shave head any?
Port/polish P90 head and OE Intake?
60mm 240sx TB?
Performance Starter?
Lighter Flywheel? Where to buy?
New Clutch/TOB/PP? Which one?
CAI? Homemade or K&N?
Thinking about removing the AC compressor, (as the freon is gone anyway), for less engine drag?
Thought about removing PS pump for less engine drag as well?
I've redone the whole interior on her already and just finished up with a complete front/rear suspension (Urethane)/steering upgrade. Ordered a set of Konig 16x8 wheels today with 225/50 Goodyears! Now, I want to move to engine/trans. I'm sorry for asking so much, but L engines are completely new to me! I've ordered both, "How to Books", from amazon. I know I'm asking for a lot, but I know some of you have outstanding knowledge to share on these little engines! Thanks and again, sorry for asking so much.... Jason
PALLNET FUEL RAILS
in Vendor's Forum
Posted
Hey Pallnet, I emailed you today, asking about a rail. Email me back whenever it's convenient?