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HybridZ

LS7

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Posts posted by LS7

  1. Great, I'm glad you were able to get what you needed. Of course you can ask me any questions. My car will be back soon and then I will start putting it together. It is now at the Uhpolstery shop getting the headlinner, rear shock towers and door pannels covered in leather. One thing I suggest with the OS Giken unit is to use their oil. It's not cheap but well worth it from what I hear since it is designed to work with their clutches. I have a build thread here in case you want to read through it.

     

    I will definitely give your build thread a read through -- I'm sure I'll learn a few things :)

     

    Any competent diff shop can set it up.  If your ring gear used the 10mm bolts then you must use bushings to make up the difference between the 10mm OD of the bolt and the 12mm ID of the holes on the OSG Superlock flange.  If a diff shop is telling you the bushings are not needed they are being lazy or cheap.  These are then exact bushings in Alain's diff.

     

    http://asbbearingsonline.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=86&products_id=3449

     

    Note:  I posted the wrong link a minute ago.  Correct link above (10mm ID, 12mmOD, 10mm height).

     

    Thanks John -- Diff builder did say bushings would be needed and that it was no issue for him to put them in (I suppose my phrasing of "no issue" was a bit misleading). I appreciate you pointing me to the exact bushings I need -- it'll more than likely save me a pretty penny compared to having my builder source them!

  2. Very cool to see someone else with a similar setup -- finally got a hold of OS Giken today and they gave me the info on which unit to use (NS046-HA), but did tell me the unit needs to be shimmed to the side, and some special Nismo bolts need to be used (38102-RS500). Glad to see that this setup has actually been done before! I've heard these are some of the best/strongest posis for road racing. I hope I can send some questions your way in the future when this stuff really starts to come together since we are in relatively similar situations.

  3. So I've reached a point where my research capabilities are failing me. I want to use an OS Giken Superlock in my longnose r200 (I know there is some mention of bushings to match bolt sizes? Not sure, but my diff builder said it was no issue). I know they have one for the 240Z R180, but there is no specific mention of one for the R200 from the 280Z. Are there any other long nose R200s that are identical such that a posi made for it would work in my current housing?

     

    I will be running the AZC suspension/brakes all around, 19 inch wheels in the rear with 305/30/ZR19 Hankook RS3s. Thus, I am also trying to figure out which rear end gear ratio to use. I'm rebuilding this diff right now and I want to do it right the first time.

     

    I should be making around 600rwhp (HCI LS7).

    My plan is to use the 2.66, 1.78, 1.30, 1, .8, .63 T56 Magnum (I think the taller 1-3 ratios will help with traction).

    The car will be a fun HPDE car for road courses, but will make the occasional trip to cars and coffee (Performance is more important than low cruise rpm).

    The car will not see the drag strip.

     

    I know all of this requires a stout rear end setup, so I figured the OS GIken + AZC setup would be a good start. Any other recommendations are welcome. Not sure exactly how crazy I need to go axle-wise to avoid issues.

     

    Thanks in advance for the help -- I'm trying to do this once and do it right!

     

  4. And if you're going built LS7 power wise + stick shift then plan on building a strong strong rear end setup. Then sell it for cheap so we can all have it before grenades ours at a max of 450rwhp lol

     

    Can't wait to see the build!

    Haha goal is 500+whp N/A, but I wouldn't be surprised if we end up closer to 550. I will definitely be putting a lot of work into the rear end -- still sorting through threads to find a great road race setup. Hoping to just modify the R200 that's in the car (Quaife, maybe?) Hoping I won't need to find an R230.

     

    Are you a licensed racer trying to win points and a championship? Or are you like me, just having fun when your family and job will allow it? Have you seen CobraMatt's projects thread? He is a national champ in NASA and races almost every weekend in either his Z (down now for heavy mods) or his Corvette. He is super nice, but he won't give you much info cause he is racing for trophies and sponsorship, so learn what you can from his build, but don't expect anything when it comes to exact specs. I have two track days with him as instructor and he is super nice and generous, but he is very direct and doesn't like to waste one minute of time.

    Definitely not racing in any championships -- my brother and I are going into this together for weekend fun. It'll be track car number 2 with our old E36 M3 not being quite fast enough for us anymore. I appreciate the heads up with respect to CobraMatt's build thread -- I will have to check that out as I'm sure it will be very helpful!

  5. Thank you so much for the help -- confirming that makes it a lot easier to pull the trigger on the trans! I will be using the JCI mounts and will definitely look into the long tubes. I think I found the group buy thread in my searches. Also, being a road race/track car, it seems that the Quick Time housing will be the way to go. I also appreciate the insight on the coating (I'm all about only spending money once...)

     

    Thanks again! I really need to start a build thread soon...

  6. Still doing a lot of research here, but I am stuck on what is probably a dumb question. I have an LS7 (Picking it up from machine shop today!) that I will be swapping into my 75 280z. I am confused on which T56 Magnum I should buy. This isn't from a performance standpoint, but for which vehicle should I order the transmission (98-02 Camaro)? (planning on going Tick or RPM stage IV/V). Also, does anyone have any insight on which bellhousing will fit 1&3/4" longtubes the best?

     

    Thanks for the help.

  7. Holley dominator all the way. Tons of online support and lots of people runnig them. Myself and a friend got my Engine up and running very quickly (an hour) once everything was plugged up correctly. It really is amazing how easy it is to use. Plus it is self tunning. With that said an OEM computer is fine to use. with the use of HPtuners and a tuner there isn't a whole lot you can't do with an OEM ecu

    How do you think the Holly Dominator's self-tune ended up compared to what a manual tune would do? I'm curious as to whether or not you think there is power/driveability left on the table...

  8. I really appreciate the constructive responses.

     

    The OEM ECU is pretty well hacked, but doesn't deliver some of the features you can get with a decent standalone like individual cylinder tuning or various race features like timing retard from launch. The OEM wiring harness ties into a lot of things and needs some pretty extensive reworking for a swap.

     

    I'm a bit biased as a forum sponsor :P but an MS3-Pro ought to work great on this motor. I'm using one on an LS swapped '72 Chevy pickup myself.

    Matt -- are there any true restrictions with the MS3-Pro when compared to using a stock computer? Does any OBDII functionality remain? Also, does it support drive by wire or only mechanical throttle linkages?

     

    I'm really between the MS3 and going the stock route at the moment. Can anyone else give experiences with either and any drawbacks they found to either system?

     

    Thanks Again

  9. Hi everyone,

     

    I am new to the HybridZ community, but I have been a lurker for a while now. I've begun the planning phase of swapping a modified LS7 into my 240Z. I have most of the build planned out, but I am stuck on what the best option is for engine management. I know there has been success with both OEM computers as well as aftermarket systems. I suppose my question revolves around what is needed to successfully integrate an LS motor from an electronics standpoint, and are there any serious limitations on using an OEM Computer/Harness setup?

     

    Also, if I missed the relevant threads in my searches, I apologize and hope you all are kind enough to point me in the right direction.

     

    Thanks in Advance...

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