shauno

Nice work Matt! I think you should clean your air filter

There is a new tool out now (well, new to me anyway) that slides down around the broken tap and engages on the cutting flutes of the tap. You just slide it in and unscrew the broken tap. One thing I don't know is whether they come that small. good luck.

I had some spacers made to go between the rim and the rotor. Mine are quite thick at 1.5 inches. But I needed them with the 10 inch rims in back. I also installed some arp 3 inch studs to accomodate the extra extension.

Well, I might have two problems here but I'll start with the first. I've searched for weeks and read every coil/transistor thread around. I've checked wiring and replaced both coil and transistor from a z31 twice, they all get really hot after about five or ten min. My wiring could be the issue but it does run so I'm stumped. I'm running motec ecu and an 83 optical dizzy. My wiring is as follows; yellow wire for signal goes into transistor black wire. black/white wire for 12v goes to coil pos. blue wire from transistor goes to coil neg. Black/dashed white wire from transistor goes to ground. Am I missing a connection somewhere? I don't have a resistor in place anywhere. Should the coil be getting 12v all the time while running? (pos coil to engine ground) Should the coil neg side be getting any voltage when measured to ground? I've checked the harness for any possible grounds. None of the wires get hot just the two components. One thing I'm confused about; should the black/white 12v wire be tied into the yellow signal wire from ecu for triggering? Could I have a bad ignition switch? All grounds in engine and chassis have been cleaned. What could cause them to get hot? To me it seems like to much current flow. Maybe my alternator? PLease someone give me some insight. Thanks you.

I've removed the plug and the shifter consol and ran a hose up through the tunnel into the cabin which then attaches to a funnel. Pour the oil in there and wait. Just make sure the entrance to the tranny is tight or it will leak all over.

Still looking for one, Preferably the 300zx unit from 87-89.

I don't know if I'm in the wrong forum but I thought it would be ok. I've tried all classifieds and internet searches. If anyone has one available please let me know by messaging me. I have the cash in hand and I'm in Vancouver B.C. Or if someone can direct me in to the right direction that would be great. Thanks in advance.

Can anyone help me out? I've changed the coil, transistor, plugs and so on. With my ignition on and not cranking, in about two minutes the transistor is hot and the coil is getting warm. I've checked all grounds and am just pulling my hair. It does start up but still gets hot and idles really rough, as well as missing and popping in the intake. ahhhhhh

I just replaced mine cuz my last one melted due to some strange issue and it still gets warm when the car is running. Is it normal for the transistor to get warm or hot? Everything is grounded very well and all the connections are soldered. Could I have a coil on the fritz? Can someone check their car to see if they experience the same thing? Please and thanks.

Clicky Linky http://tanetane92.web.infoseek.co.jp/20050116tas2.html

Ask your girl what she thinks...

As of now my wastegate dumps just down from the turbo with a slant cut on the pipe. When it reaches boost, oh my, does it scream with fear! I want to move the location of the dump to the edge of the fender and install a muffler on the pipe to quiet it down a bit. At the moment I don't want to tap into my exhaust downpipe because of time restraints so I'll have to plan for that. Has anyone used a muffler on their setup? or know where I can source one. I've tried JC whitey and a few others. Maybe someone can help? Thanks

Thanks John, Your info is appreciated. I will start making my own right away for all the drivetrain bits. Thanks

I know it's been discussed before but mainly it has to do with the v8 swaps, not the L6 guys. I've been searching the site for days looking for a solution to get rid of my ripped driver side mount but still retain some flexibility up front. I'm running a solid diff and tranny mount but my engine does flex alot under shifting (turbo, ceramic clutch, 275's) I have found that I can replace just the driver side with something solid and leave the passenger stock. Is this a good idea? Is there a piece out there that I can purchase or do I have to resort to cutting and welding? Does anyone have any pics of there solutions? Maybe a shift in the right direction? Thanks in advance.

Me three...

Sorry, I forgot to say that that the right side outlet has been cut off and turned toward the driver side and then welded back on. It has a cleaner look so you can run the pipes one on top of the other.

Her is my addition http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/medium/8797All_pictures_276.jpg

I have a small but intersting question that came to mind just recently. I don't know why just now, considering I've been doing diesel engine reseach and testing for three years. It involves the use of variable geometry turbos. If you're not familiar, they have a compressor that changes position depending on load, speed, and rpm. It has an electric motor connected to an arm that actuates the movement of the compressor wheel (similar to a wastegate), by doing so it creates a smaller hosing to wheel area or a larger passage for air to travel through, generating more boost or less turbo speed. Thinking now, it could be used to compensate for lag and top end losses. I also have a counter thought (not being an engineer here) that it could not be used because diesel engines run at lower rpms. My experience with sitting in front of window watching an engine run for hours on end tells me that these could work with the proper controls. I've seen them spool up to 95k rpm for long periods of time. Has anyone had any experience with these or am I a loner? As far as I know, they are being used on the cummins diesels, probably more but I only did cummins work. I have witnessed homemade controls capable of controlling these units very well with the right fuel and ignition controls for long periods. I am ranting here but I thought I would share my thoughts. Any replies would be cool. Later.

I have a full T-04 60-1 turbonetics on an old BAE manifold port matched and ceramic coated with a turbonetics deltagate. Solid 15 psi now but soon maybe more....