Scrufffy
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Posts posted by Scrufffy
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I've decided it's time to start a build thread. After 5+ years of lurking, 3 flipflops on engine choice, 1 lost project car, and 1 brother-in-law who is trying his best to keep me on track despite life's interruptions, I finally settled on the JDM Aristo 2j. (He's also doing a 2JZ swap, but starting with a bare shell)
Car:
- Very straight but rough, rust-free '71 that currently has the stock motor with the Arizona Z Car 4 barrel carb and manifold (for sale)
Currently have waiting in the hangar:
- JDM Aristo 2jzgte VVTi
- cd009
- R200
Short Term Plans:
- Collins or Maverick adapter
- ECU Master, EMU Black
- Stock twins (for now to get things rolling)
- Rework the stock harness myself, with cannon plug to mount ECU inside
- Stock fuel tank with surge tank (for now to avoid fuel cell until it's time)
- Plumbing to handle E85 and flex-fuel sensor (for when it's time to upgrade the stock twins)
Longer Term Plans:
- Suspension
- Cage
- Too much to list
I'll add pictures later
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For anybody tired of using the clunky websites to calculate new versus old tire sizes, widths, and heights, I found this handy Excel Spreadsheet. The grey boxes are all drop downs. It allows you to compare two new tire/wheel combinations to an existing setup and shows what the differences will be in inches for height/diameter/radius. The difference for the backside and frontside of the new wheels is in millimeters and inches +/-.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/76fr1golryz6wtt/Tire-Wheel%20Calculator.xls?dl=0
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As per his post a few pages earlier (#2071), he is running a 275"-40 series tire on the rears which could be on either 10" or possibly 10.5" from the limited run 2015 Te37 V-SL as seen on post (#2067) same page supplied by member Docaam. The 2015 limited run V-SL line had a (9.5" -15), (10" - 20), and (10.5" - 25) options with more back spacing than the standard Te37 V like I bought. Attached is the 2015 limited run sizings as well as the 2016 which did not offer the wider options in 17".
I am curious to know exactly as well.
I also noticed the 2016's don't appear to come in the right lug pattern in 17 inch...
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As per his post a few pages earlier (#2071), he is running a 275"-40 series tire on the rears which could be on either 10" or possibly 10.5" from the limited run 2015 Te37 V-SL as seen on post (#2067) same page supplied by member Docaam. The 2015 limited run V-SL line had a (9.5" -15), (10" - 20), and (10.5" - 25) options with more back spacing than the standard Te37 V like I bought. Attached is the 2015 limited run sizings as well as the 2016 which did not offer the wider options in 17".
I am curious to know exactly as well.
Thanks! I must have missed his post. I'm going nuts trying to figure out what will fit.
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Where was this 6 months ago before I bought the OBX and all the crap to hopefully keep it together!
Oh well, I'll get one when the OBX junk dies and destroys my rear end... -
I doubt there was a special one off on the te-37
I have 275-40 on rear. 17". My .02 cent fwiw
That looks great! What's your rim width and offset?
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Updates??
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Here is a link to where the article is hosted
http://www.skylife4ever.com/2011/04/rb26-engine-assembly-how-to-build.html
Pix working again...
I let my hosting package lapse, and always forget that the pictures are hosted there...
Thank you guys so much for the link and fixing the pics! After exhaustive searching I've found the original post a few different times.
Short thread highjack:
I'm very stoked on an RB swap, and it seems like there's more JDM engine's available here stateside than in the past... Stony and cheftrd, what would be your opinions on a JDM engine with a compression test and startup warranty from the importer, as opposed to an expensive with almost price prohibitive rebuilt engine shipped form over seas for my Z? The idea would be to keep it mostly stock and just enjoy it for a time. Then do a rebuild, ecm, turbos and supporting equipment for some respectable but not ridiculous horsepower.
The problem I'm having is finding a shop near me that seems knowledgable, I know why that is, but it's a major hurtle for me.
Any advise if you guys have time either here or pm would be very greatly appreciated!
Threadjack over.
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Looks good! Hope to see some updates!
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I loved reading through this thread, I know it's old but I wish the pictures were still working... Oh well, still very informative! I was absolutely sure I was going the ls route with my z until I found the RB section here... Now I think plans have changed, in part because of this thread and stony's "so you want to swap an rb" sticky.
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I'll be following! I'm about to start my first Z build... Good luck!
Oh well, I'll get one when the OBX junk dies and destroys my rear end...
2JZGTE swap pulleys..how do I keep AC with power steering delete?
in Toyota L6 Forum
Posted
This, kinda...
I know this is an old thread... But for anybody interested, it's really easy to make the pump into a big idler pulley.
What I did was:
1. Take the power steering pump apart and take the impeller, vanes, and fluid channeling bits out.
2. Put some oil inside to keep the bearings that are used to having power steering fluid on them happy.
3. use RTV to plug the input/output with a piece of safety wire through the upper port to pull out after the RTV cured tor a little vent action.
4. Had some shipping caps laying around to cover the RTV and a pin hole in the top one for the vent.
Could make a small mess later, but I couldn't find any other way to keep the AC but not the PS and still have the belt routed so it would work.