the240z

I honestly just took all the stuff off and put the new stuff on. But thank you again NewZed, and Seattlejester for your help.

THANK YOU EVERYONE WHO HELPED!!!! I GOT IT RUNNING!!!! I ordered a new distributor cap, rotor, points, condenser and ballast resister and put it on today and it runs absolutely great!!!

I will do that tomorrow, this car is kicking my ass lol.

I sort of checked compression by taking the plugs out and feeling it when it was turning over, I know that's not exact science but the compression felt decent. And by almost catching I mean that it almost starts, like when you hear an engine just turning over and over and what I hear is that it starts combusting for a few seconds then just turns over. I'm going to check sparks today, either way I ordered a new condenser, points, cap and rotor.

Tried it all, I feel like it might be a fuel thing but then maybe spark I was messing with the throttle and it would almost catch and start but it would just keep turning over. So I sprayed starter fluid into the carb, lifted the cylinder thing and opened the throttles and it still wouldn't start, so I think it's back to the distributor.

Thanks, I am going to give that a shot. And will report results tomorrow some time.

I am hoping it's a fuel thing I will pull the carbs apart tomorrow if I can.

Firing order is 153624. And when 1 is TDC it aims right at 1. I didn't lift the pistons in the carburetors I will try that in the morning....I'm hoping I didn't get shafted on this deal LOL... this is my second 240z first one had a v8 in it so never had these issues, is there anyone to ask about the value of the car verse what I paid for it?

I took the air filter box off and sprayed into both the carbs to try and get it to start. I FORGOT TO MENTION CAUSE IM AN IDIOT BUT!!! The Previous owner told me there was a fire under the hood a long time ago. the only wires burned were one that goes to the back of the distributor and the one that goes to the TEMP sending unit. I have no Idea what the wire that goes to the back of the distributor is but i replaced it.

When it does go to try and start it catches real nice like its SO close to starting, hard to describe that sound, but then it just goes back to turning over and might catch one or two more times and then nothing. I tested the ohms of the ballast resistor and it was 1.5 i think? also tested the coil and it was 12v. I just got 6 new plugs an hour ago.

Wouldn't even start. Sorry for the illiteracy. I have been trying to figure this out all day.

http://imgur.com/a/QhXmm I OK I think my cap might be on backwards, the lump is facing towards the firewall

I drained the little plug at the bottom of the both carbs and turned it over a little and more fuel came out so its at least getting to the carbs, I've tried even just running it on starter fluid to no avail. I am not sure about the distributor whether it is stock or not, but the cap says BOSCH on it and I think the little lump on the side of the cap means 1 but it isn't aiming towards the #1 cylinder

PICS http://imgur.com/a/oEu1V

My understanding is that it has been years since it has started. BUT If I go to start it, it will pick up and get really close to starting or run for a brief second then just keep turning over. Then if I try again all it does is just roll over without starting or picking up. IF I let it sit for a while it will almost start up again but no success. PICS COMING VERY SHORTLY

ok ill post a bunch of pics of stuff too incase you see something that is wrong

Hi, Just picked up a 72 240z. Put some new fuel in it, it gets up to the carbs just fine. new battery, and i cannot get it to start. A few things that I have noticed that might be relevant are as follows: When I turn the key to ON just before start, the tach rolls all the way to 9000 and just sits there even when attempting to start. I pulled the coil wire off the distributor and and held it to the intake and it sparks great for a few sparks then it won't spark for a couple of turn overs then it will spark a couple good times then it won't. I am guessing this is related to it not starting. I am lost at what to do, any ideas? Thanks EDIT: PICS ARE HERE http://imgur.com/a/oEu1V

oops slipped my mind, 350 small block chevy, muncie 4 speed, no idea about clutch or pressure plate. pretty sure just a gm clutch 10.5 inch maybe and pressure plate diaphram

Hi, I have been having issues with the stock 240z clutch master and slave not having enough throw, so I have been researching a lot for internal slave bell or something and I discovered through a hot rod magazine that american powertrain has an internal hydraulic clutch system, link here: http://americanpowertrain.com/i-8521627-hydramax-hydraulic-clutch-actuator-system-for-tko-muncie-t10-saginaw-richmond-jericho-t5-lenco.html Wondering if anyone has done anything like this or what they think about this. Looking for thoughts before I order this.

So im redoing a 240z and definitely want to get some racing style seats with 5 point harnesses. yes building a cage so thats not a problem but I was wondering what seats you guys use and what seats support 5 point harnesses. Been reading a lot about recaro and cipher and sparco and corbeau and procar, and not a lot of the cheap seats ($300 each or less) support 5 point harnesses with the crotch hole. Was wondering if anyone had any advice on where to go or what to get for that im looking for. thanks

OK so a week or so ago i did a v8 swap on a 72 240z, the motor is a small block chevy...350...and a muncie 4 speed with an external clutch arm. So I fabricated a bracket to make the stock 240z slave cylinder push the mechanical clutch arm and it works.....almost.... it does not push it far enough...I have bled it out and adjusted it as much as can be done and it still wont push the lever far enough. is there any difference in push distance from the 240z master and slave cylinders compared to american ones like chevy? any ideas? what have others done? would rather not pull the tranny out to put an internal clutch lever in but meeh idk...anyway Thanks for the help