turbonissanzx
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Posts posted by turbonissanzx
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Why dont you just use shorty plugs you will be able to use it with any match or heads and headers. They cost about 7 bucks a piece
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Looks good. What part of town are you in?. I live in Laveen.
north scottsdale
you should come out to the pavilons car show some time
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Thanks. Do those rears rub?
not at all not even close
with no spacer
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The rear is 215 60 14 s and the front is 205 s so this thing realy needs more meat it lights them up too easely but at least tires are cheap in this side.
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Looks good! I did the same to my car except I used Krylon Italian Olive.
where is the pic
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What brand paint did you use? looks nice. I was contemplating going satin black for a while.
Dupli color hot rod flat black primer but its out of the spray can got lots of practice before needs to be real thick coats and this is primer. no fade after 6 months but was just a temp paint, people kind of look at you crazy when your car is like the first two even got pulled over and the cops talked ♥♥♥♥ until they saw under the hood.
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Not sure what kind I did not buy them but they are 14s with fake bead lock they came out looking pretty good with the color of the car I think.
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I bought the ceramic ones for 180 got to love craigslist.
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This sub forum seemed best suited, since this isnt exactly a "project" thread by any means yet. The main purpose of this thread is to provide something to link the words "fusible links BLOW" in my sig to. any responses are more than welcome.
The title of this story is:
Why Fusible Links Blow.
This is my 1975 Datsun 280Z.
She was my daily driver from July of 2000, when I bought her for $300 cash, until October of 2004, when she had a small electrical fire. This is the story of why she was taken out of commission, and my lame ass excuses as to why its taken well over 2 years for me to do anything about it.
In early October of 2004, Hurricane Jeanne stormed through Southeast Florida. She wasn't a major storm, but since she came only a month after Hurricane Frances, and there were still large amounts of uncollected debris in piles on curbs, Jeanne did pack something of a wallop in terms of electrical outages. After 3 weeks in the heat, the power trucks made it to my neighborhood. The third day, they seemed to be working in our area. We wouldnt know until they quit for the day, and re energized the sections of grid they had repaired. At 7 o'clock, when the shift changed, those guys cleaned up and left, and for fifteen minutes my landlord and I rode around in my Z looking for evidence that power may be back on in other homes, but not yet ours. At some point, my landlord must have inadvertently kicked something by the fuse box area, because something shorted out and the car died. I jiggled the battery cable and it cranked up, but it didn't take long for that something to short again.
The second time, I blew a fusible link. No sweat, I was right down the block from my house.. we pushed the car home, I got another fusible link, replaced the first, and we were good to go. Drove around a bit more, without any problems at all. However, I was in for it; the fusible link I had blown was black in color. It was NOT a black fusible link, but it had been stained over time. The fusible link I plugged in to replace it, WAS in fact, a black fusible link. Can you see where this story is going? For the record, our power WAS turned back on that night.
Later that night, I went to run to the grocery store. Hop in the Z, pull out, after a block things all of a sudden start running AWFUL, the headlights go extremely dim, and I could barely keep the engine running to turn around and drive home. Take landlord's car to store, fast forward to next afternoon. I hop in the car, crank it up, runs fine. I drive around the neighborhood with my stereo on, AC fan blowing, and headlights on trying to draw as much juice as possible; nothing. Drives fine, runs fine, ammeter shows proper charging. I drove past some kids playing baseball in the street, and pulled into the driveway, puzzled. I turned off the car, put the keys in my pocket, walked back inside, and inadvertently left the front door open.
Fifteen minutes later, I walk out of the hallway and into the living room, and one of the kids who was playing ball in the street is at my door trying to figure out how to knock on an open door. He meets my eyes with a baffled look on his face and says, "Uhm, I think your car's on fire." As he was saying this, I looked past him to see smoke drifting out from under my hood, and my windshield wipers immobile, and halfway up the glass:
I shat a brick.
Long story short, the short recurred, I guess. The fusible link didnt blow; it heated up, because it was a much higher rating than it should have been. It melted the plastic block cover that I had JUST FOUND A NICE NEW ONE OF in the junkyard, and set the fusible link block on fire. By the time I got it out, the entire fusible link block itself, and all associated wires, were toast all the way down to the point where they integrated into the main wire harness... BUT no further. The damage was fortunately limited to the block sub-harness, and the main harness was in no way harmed.
However, I had no hopes of finding a fusible link block like it in the junkyard, and the part was not to be found in the family parts hoard. (Mostly 240 stuff.) Knowing what I know now, it would be a simple matter to have repaired this; but the car had many other issues with electricity. In addition, I have a complete MSA twice pipes exhaust system and header to install; my injectors always leaked; the car always ran rich, the fuel pump was re wired the ghetto way; the turn signals didn't work; the rear brakes were an open system!; I had front strut cartridges to install; rear disc brakes to install; and a five speed to put back in. (The car currently has a four speed in it; I got a wrong clutch master, and couldn't disengage the clutch, we thought it might possibly be internal tranny issues and tried the swap, I never got around to re swapping afterwards.) This Daily Driver needed a trip to the spa in a BAD way, and after two hurricanes, and the resultant missed work and spent money, I was totally financially drained and had NO resources to do any of these things to the car.
In desperate need, and with thoughts of all the work I had never been able to do to my only car and daily driver, I wound up putting timing belts on my brother's old Subaru and he gave me the car for free (seen here in the background.) Shortly afterwards, I was fired by a crazy office manager. Since then, I have had six jobs (currently on my seventh) and spent a total of about six months unemployed, and had an eight month stint with no driver license due to lack of insurance. In other words, it hasn't been good times.
I am currently trying to get to working on it; as many parts as I have, and as much restoration work as the car needs, I certainly have funds for the minimal shop supplies needed to do ALOT. Work and domestic issues have taken center stage, blah blah blah insert sob story here. Plans are to stay with the L engine, build a mean P-90, and maybe ultimately go twin turbo with an interesting twist, and also hopefully LPG injection. THAT is certainly a nice modest goal, don't you think? Anyhow, thats the lofty goal, more short term is just to get the thing running, MS it, and experiment with dual TBs and SU intake manifolds. The P-90 head will come in somewhere along the line, but we shall see as far as actual "projects" shaping up on the car. I don't want to talk a huge talk right after explaining why the car has been allowed to rot outdoors (I DO keep it covered at least) but that is what I have in mind.
Here are a couple more photos.
As you can see, I have my work cut out for me. The spot welds between the corner panel window opening and the hatch opening are OK on both sides, but starting to show rust. The rear face panel needs some work from two separate incidents; there is typical cancer starting to show in a couple of spots. The frame rails need serious attention, but there is no one thing very major on the car.
This is her bad side; the rear quarter panel may be in need of replacement. You can also see a nice little dent behind the bumper in the middle; I had the bumpers off for a couple of years but a cop made me put them back on. The worst cancer spot is right at the corner of the rear quarter window opening.
Here you can see, propped up in the crack between hood and fender, a chunk of the 1/4 inch or more thick paint and bondo that is chipping off of my fenders; Thanks, PO!!
In the pictures posted above, of the front of the car, you can see the 240 bumper I have "in storage" resting on the stock bumper; nothing fancy, I just found a good lace to put it for now, thats all.Yes, I have a LOT of work ahead of me. Yes, I made several poor decisions that led directly to this car's "de-commissioning" as I put it. I was under a lot of stress from living in the post hurricane world in urban south Florida; Grumpyvette can attest to what kind of hellhole this place became with no traffic lights or air conditioning. EVERYone was in a foul mood, the bad vibes got to me and I cannot make any excuses for my behavior that led to my fire; it was six or seven stupid moves in a row. Almost comical, but for the tragic outcome.
Think you may have more luck using this junker as a parts car especially if it has already caught on fire well you should at least keep a fire extinguisher if you drive this clunker.Good luck
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Just put these on my sbc z and they work great and you don't even need to put on a gasket.
http://www.sandersonheaders.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_23_35&products_id=57
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Was not easy to do side pipes but here is what it looks like took eleven hours of work and had to cut some off the body up too.
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his is my z took only 2 weeks and $75 to do the hole car hot rod black rattle can .
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his is my z took only 2 weeks and $75 to do the hole car hot rod black rattle can .
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This is my z took only 2 weeks and $75 to do the hole car hot rod black rattle can .
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i would go 5 spd manual. automatics suck in a z.
QUOTE]
I dont' agree with this statement either. For one thing sticks can't handle that much TQ' date=' about 600 lb-ft max using the TKO trans, otherwise its about 300 to 400lb ft. Auto's can handle that and alot more. On a cost basis the manual trans is going to cost alot by the time you get a flywheel, clutch, scattershield, etc. and the overdrive auto is costly as well so it is a toss up IMO if your anywhere near 400 to 500lb-ft of TQ. If he were to get a 3.15 or even in the 3.30 range it will drop his rpm by about 500 to 250 rpm at cruising speed respectively. So 2500 rpm at cruising is alot better than 3000. Gear vendors overdrive units are big $$$ too.
As for being doggy in the first two gears, then it seems obious that the engine is underpowered and/or the stall speed in the converter is too low, especially in a light z.[/quote']
Agree but it just seems like less of s job to do the gears than to drop the tranny well thanks
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The 200R-4 transmission will bolt in and be the same length as the TH350 tranny. You won't have to have the driveshaft resized or anything. If you put in the T5, you will have to have the driveshaft shortened (if memory serves). Try searching the topics in the forum and you'll probably find the answer you are looking for. There's gold in the archives.
Davy
thanks ,I think I would rather try a 700r4 instead of the 200r4 i heard they are not as strong.
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I have a R200 3.15 LSD that could, sadly, be up for sale before long. It would be great for you.
I've been having to sell stuff and am about to start looking at parts of the Z to get rid of.
sounds good what you want for it?
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The 700R4 will fit right in if the TH350 did. Being a novice at the 1/4 track I prefer the full on auto trans, no clutch, and no shifting, just push and it GOES!
true i like them too they are more consistent at the track hey thanks for the advice
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ps I have the 180 moustache bar too but If it were my car i would put a 200 4r in it it will bolt to the same driveshaft you already have as it is the same length and has the same spline count ,and is .63 od I believe
hey thanks will look into the 700r4 and it would be great to have od would you say it is hevier than the th350 and any clearence problems in the tranny tunnel and not realy wanting to put a 180r in my z still shooting for around 400 to the wheels thanks.
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Agreed.
No they don't. I have driven V8 Z cars with automatics and they are great from my experience. They also have 700R4 or 200R-4 automatics and work extremely well with the 4th (overdrive) gear. This guy may want an auto and there's really nothing wrong with that, especially for his intended use. The whole setup needs to work together: engine, transmission, rear gears, even the size of tires--you must take it all into account when building a car.
Good to know, thanks
That's what I have going in right now. I'll see how the 3.90 is with the T5 and if I don't like it, I'll swap in the 3.54 VSLD.Davy
sounds like a good idea but is there any fabracating needed to install a t5 and do you think the drive shaft from the th350 slash r200 will bolt to the t5
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I have a 76 sbc z with a turbo 350 and that sucker is screaming on the high way and I think it would be an easier job to change the final drive than change tranny. I can only find one company that sells one and i am pretty sure it will not even fit http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm-low/Kameari-R200-Final-Gear-Set-S30-Z31-R30-R31-58311 . I have the 3.56 stock and was wondering if you guy have any ideas
In the pictures posted above, of the front of the car, you can see the 240 bumper I have "in storage" resting on the stock bumper; nothing fancy, I just found a good lace to put it for now, thats all.
That's what I have going in right now. I'll see how the 3.90 is with the T5 and if I don't like it, I'll swap in the 3.54 VSLD.
280Z Rat rod
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
Well at least my z has a American power plant