Blob1620
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Posts posted by Blob1620
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I've had all I can stand. I'm going to pull the gearbox this weekend and get the flywheel/pressure plate assembly balanced. As far as I can find online the RB's are totally internally balanced and shouldn't require my machinist to account for a counter balance. Is that correct?
Going to have a better look at the top side of the gearbox too and see if maybe its been touching anywhere I couldn't see from the bottom. Wish me luck... this has been a problem since I first built the car...
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Im lookig for some short front strut inserts so I can lower my front more, and Im running Cosmo coilovers so they need to be fairly agressive valving to keep up with the spring rate Im running.
I cant justify buyimg new ones... New struts and camber core tion kits cost as much as simply buying real deal coil overs.... Which are also easier to modify the car for haha.
Anybody has somethkng to offer let me know! Thanks!
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Ok, I bought one of those sheets from Home Depot after reading that the PVC foam is actually quite rigid. We will see.
Expect photo's and a write up here once I start digging in.
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Yea, been looking at Birch, I've used ABS in the past but its pricey. Just wondering how this foam PVC holds up and cant find specs on temp range or tensile strength.
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Has anyone here ever worked with Palight PVC plastic sheet for building a splitter/undertray? Seems cost effective (48"x24" sheet shipped for $57) and short of a temperature rating seems up to the task.
Im just seeing who, if anyone has worked witb the product and seekng if its viable for that ise case.
Cheers!
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Hi everybody,
Has anyone used an a header manufacturer they liked for a low mount application. I see high mount stuff all over but I'm using a t3 hot side turbo with an internal wastegate and I'm looking to keep the turbo in the same location the stock manifold has it to avoid redoing the down pipe and potentially being forced to change turbos.
This one looks well made
But then theres always the temptation of saving a bunch of money by going with the GodSpeed style t-304 stainless header.
Anybody have opinions on this?
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I did the ls2 coil swap with the mojo performance bracket, connectors to modify the harness care of wiring specialties. the picture was taken half way through with the wiring not yet complete, but it gives you the idea.
Initial impression, big time improvement. still a vibration at 3k rpm but come to find out my FPR is failing so theres a new one on the way to fix that. this thing should be pretty angry when its done.
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Where are people buying these at? I'm having a hard time with local parts stores getting them.
Also, is it the same part number for fronts and rears?
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Im on a budget and looking to find as many of these things as possible second hand.
- r200 long nose with a limited slip
- tail light interior plastic panel for a 280z
- short shocks for sectioned strut tubes
- aftermarket rear control arms for camber adjustment
Anything you can bring to the table would be appreciated. Thanks all, and Happy New Year!!
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Happy Thanksgiving everyone!
I've been driving my car for about 2000 miles now, and everything seems to be coming in nicely which has me thinking about the loose ends that I still have yet to take care of from the build. I have a Cosmo coil over kit which runs higher spring rates than most of the other kits, I think it's 300 pounds in the rear, and 250 or so in the front. I have to double check that for sure but I know it's higher than most. Anyway, it's time to start considering sectioning the struck tubes, and that has me looking for shock incerts.
The shock thread that's pinned on this forum is like reading a novel… And it's kind of old. Is there any sort of new product that anybody would like to share? Also has anyone used the actual Cosmo coil over kit with a shorter strut successfully? My goal is to actually have a spine left after driving this car long distances
As you can see from the attached picture, I'm using stock length struts. And it's keeping the nose quite high. In the twisty mountain roads it causes a bit of corner entry understeer, and it doesn't look all that great either… The Koni orange shocks that I'm using right now seem to keep the springs under good control, but they are at the maximum setting for their adjustible valving.
Any advice would be appreciated
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This guy says RB crank bolts are a problem. http://www.lewisengines.com.au/rb-tech/
tried a big ol' breaker bar on the crank pulley, seemed pretty tight. To be honest, my biggest torque wrench only goes to 200Nm so I'm not sure just HOW tight it is.
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Oh boy, Thats bad news..... I'll have to take a look when I get home tonight...
Thanks NewZed
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Did you have the flywheel balanced with the pressure plate? My L-series became way smoother once I did that. Not saying that is it but if your engine was fine and then you had your flywheel resurfaced and the vibration showed up. That is where I would start looking.
That's just it, I purchased the engine rebuilt, I never heard it run before first fire up after the rebuild. I've had RB powered cars before though, and this kind of vibration is very new to me. Higher revs and and it comes in like waves of vibration. I'm just trying to pinpoint it without throwing parts at it and was wondering if anyone had seen this before. Removing the trans is a real pain in the balls if its not the clutch or flywheel that's the issue.
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Under load my car gets a miserable vibration that follows engine rpm. Its not a misfire, engine is doing everything its supposed to be doing. under load or not, around 3k rpm there's a vibration through the whole car. I have CXRacing engine mounts too fyi, so they are one step above being a solid engine mount.
Question 1: are these engines known for having harmonic damper issues, do they go bad commonly?
Question 2: has anyone had engine balance issues after surfacing the flywheel? This one has been surfaced. (seems unlikely just looking for trends)
I've tried all the tricks trying to isolate it. When I'm sitting still clutch out in neutral, clutch in in neutral, and clutch in in gear, free revving, the vibration happens at the the exact same rpm. So i feel its somewhere flywheel forward.
Let me know if you've had similar experiences. Thanks!
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So, the 24" resonator and now a Thrush turbo muffler.... still super buffety at cruising speeds. WAY better then the two chamber, but way louder then my S13 was.... my just be insulation and the fact that the s13 had a back seat too.
anyway, the solid mount I have on the diff cross member for a hanger location is going to get a rubber isolator next, hopefully that helps a bit.
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Yea, I made up a couple of the CV adapters from the download on this site. Now I'm just looking to find axles that work with them. I believe it was 280ZX Turbo CV's now, yes. Are they different lengths then the NA cv's?
Thanks,
PM Me, I'm interested.
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Hi everybody,
I'm looking for 280zx cv's and they seem to be impossible to get from local parts stores now.... anyone have a runable pair? I already have adapters to bolt them to my s30 companion flanges.
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Has anyone seen this bracket solution? really clean solution!
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Hmm, ok.
Been doing some looking into this, and I must be google dumb because I cant find literature on the MojoRacing setup... Anyhow. I'm going to try the dielectric grease "rebuild" band-aid and see if that does anything while I keep searching for some LS coils. Building my own bracket doesn't scare me. I just am not in the position to waste money on something I need to redo a month later at the moment.
Thanks for all the input folks!
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Does this give you the ability to ignore the knock sensors too?
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What about the Australian hot rod coils I keep seeing around? has anyone run them? seems a more direct replacement, and similar/less cost then the LS coils. Are they really just not any good?
Yellow jackets, Splitfire, racing parts warehouse..... are non of these worth buying?
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Ive been chasing my tail with the runability of my rb25. Its a fresh rebuild, i now have about 1000 miles on it, and it still seems to have basic runability issues. Has a little fart (misfire) now and again when its cold and warming up, AFR is comfortably in the 12's range when Im at full throttle, and my timing is set to stock 15 degrees base timing. The power is very underwelming, and when I get up to 6500-6800 rpm or so, it randomely breaks up, almost like hitting a soft rev limiter.
My searches for the rev limit with a stock ecu have come up with a wide range of oppinions. But since it seems to be different every time, Im more suspect of an ignition issue. It has factory coils, ive gotten better runability every time I close that gap more (currently at .8mm) and dont feel Inshould be closing it more.
Has anyone had similay runability issues whne their coils were startig to give up?
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There is another mirror discussion thread, but I was wondering if anyone has used the low profile door mount mirrors I keep seeing on the web. Cant find any pictures of people running them, and was wondering if anyone on here was? If included a picture of what Im talking about, and a pic of a car that looks like it might be running them from a google pics search I did.
Ill be going with black bullet mirrors otherwise. I dont feel like buying these if they dont fit the car right.
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Blog,
Sounds like its up and running well. My 2nd gear synchro crunched bad when I first got the motor/trans. I mixed a quart of GM synchromess in with the MT 90 and that helped.
Bill
Good suggestion. I'm still sponsored by LiquiMoly so I went with their synthetic gear oil and Extreme Oil/Gear additive. I'm running LM GT1 10w-50 in the engine too. Something tells me the thinner flowing nature of their products may just be causing it to shift a little clunky. I've noticed 90's gearboxes tend to like oil as thick as honey haha.
I had a 1970 Mustang that I did a tremec T-5 swap in, same thing, didnt shift right till I put really thick oil in it. so.....
Engine vibration
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted
Well, after much toil and lost sleep, i found a place at the top of the gearbox that was touching the trans tunnel. Vibration gone... Happy days