280znewbie
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Posts posted by 280znewbie
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By gotten worse I mean it is louder since putting the car away in October. I removed the clutch fan and went to electrics so now I hear everything even clearer which makes it seem louder. People have the valve covers off once a week? For what purpose? U don't have to touch the valves for thousands of miles. Any idea if it is just the guides or the tensioner? I know it isnt valves. They're all gapped fine and the noise is from the front cover. Could the sound be from a failing water pump or the bearing?
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Definitely from the front top of the motor. Valve cover was off a year ago. All the lobes were perfect. Everything seemed tight. Is the little plate on the front of the head allow you into the tensioner or guide?
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L28et swap into 76. My motor has always had a lite bit of a rattle but it has gotten worse to the point it scares me. Noise comes from the top of the front cover. Car runs great. Does this sound like an upper guide or the lower tensioner?
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My motor has always had a lite bit of a rattle but it has gotten worse to the point it scares me. Noise comes from the top of the front cover. Car runs great. Does this soundick like an upper guide or the lower tensioner?
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Thank u for the reply. What I've decided is to put a thermo tec blanket on the bottom of the intake with it reflective side towards the exhaust. It's rated to block 2000 degree radiant heat. I painted the exhaust and turbo with 1300-2000 ceramic paint.
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Currently redoing my l28et intake and exhaust manifolds. Does anyone know how hot the exhaust manifold and turbo get on a completely stock setup? Im going to be painting the intake with 550 degree paint, is this high enough? Was planning on painting the exhaust with 1400 degree paint and possibly wrapping. is this a concern? Will the manifold with wrap get above 1400 degrees. also any thoughts on a turbo blanket causing extra wear on the stock turbo? Really dont want to send the manifold out to get professionally coated, cant afford to. Has anyone made a custom heat shield to go between the exhaust and intake?
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Also I've noticed when the points are closed I still have full 12v on the negative post, is that a ground issue on the distributor or a problem with the condenser?
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Thanks both of u for that info. Unfortunately that's stuff that I've checked for the most part. I just need to use a test light on the coil to check for pulse. Im thinking the condensor is bad. Does it mount on the distributor or the fender?
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I do understand electricity, done plenty of car rewires, just new to point systems. I have measured those thing, i.e. ground is good, voltage at one side of point, the only thing left is the condenser, u say it shouldn't have continuity to ground correct? It is wired on the distributor to negative coil post wire correct?
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What I mean is that the point itself works perfectly. It opens to its correct gap and makes contact when closed. On a point system the distributor is grounded and when the arm makes contact it too grounds out. It's what allows the coil to enter it's second phase and build voltage for the spark correct? I've researched the wiring of this system and have verified almost everything to be right using a voyage and ohm meter but yet I get no spark out of the coil and what I'm wondering is the negative post on the coil as well as its output supposed to have 12v? I wouldn't think so
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I picked up a 71 manual 240z. I can't get any spark from it at all. I have check the points gap which was .018. I have voltage to positive side of coil at both key on and start position. I have used a ohm meter to check that the plug on the distributor is grounded and it is when the point is closed. I have full battery voltage at the negative side of the coil as well as the wire from the coil to the cap. What would be the issue? A condenser of some sort?
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I picked up a 71 manual 240z. I can't get any spark from it at all. I have check the points gap which was .018. I have voltage to positive side of coil at both key on and start position. I have used a ohm meter to check that the plug on the distributor is grounded and it is when the point is closed. I have full battery voltage at the negative side of the coil as well as the wire from the coil to the cap. What would be the issue? A condenser of some sort?
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The issue was solved. Put a new CAS in. Solved everything
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Voltage is normal. I did the work. Car ran fine for a few months. The Cas isn't putting out the signal voltage changes out anymore. I spent a few hours testing. No signal. Starter is new. Alternator is new. I think the Cas was part of the problem. Not sure if it is all of it. It drives fine until that point. Placing the charger right on the battery. When starting sometimes it backfires through the intake. It has the stock 83 computer. Everything checks out on it. I had it professionally checked.
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I have a 76 280z with a 280zxt swap. The car refuses to cold start unless i put the charger on it and put 125amps to it. The battery is brand new and reads fully charged on the charger. Why is this. The car will start fine once warm. Also sometimes the car will light the cylinders at the wrong time and send all 6 cylinders out through the emergency pop valve. Yesterday my CAS went bad and i have a new one coming. Could a bad CAS cause this weird fire and starting issue? Could the CHTS cause an issue when cold? Once started the car idles great hot or cold but wouldn't rev past 3000rpm
What i have replaced or checked:
Fuel pressure was 36 at idle
cap
rotor
coil
ignitor
thermotime
chts-have a resistance number that is a little off
fuses
have full voltage at ignitor and coil
have 12v at CAS
continuity from ecu to all sensors
Airflow meter doesnt have any dead spots in it that i could find, although the resistance numbers aren't linear
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Thank u. That means my wiring is correct and I made the ride decision in ordering a new Cas.
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I already knew most of that. I'm sorry I wasn't specific enough. What I meant to ask is with the distributor unplugged should the green signal wires have 5 volts coming from the ecu and out the harness? Wasn't sure if the wires should be powered or if they should ground through the distributor
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I have a 280z with an 83 l28et swap. It has had a 3000rpm cut out for some time. I replaced the cap and rotor last night and after about 1 minute of idling fine it just shut off. Tried restarting and now i do not have injector pulse or spark. I belive the Cas has gone bad. My question is should the green signal wires coming to the Cas have 5v whenever the switch is on and the cas is unplugged? Or should they act as grounds when the optical reader goes over the slots in the encoder wheel
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My issues were fixed. It was all caused by a loose alternator connection. No charge=no ignition. The longer I ran the car the worse it was. Now I know why. Such a stupid thing
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It is fixed. The alternator positive wire was loose and wasn't charging the battery leading to the ignition cutting. Hooked it back up and installed a new walbro 255 and the car runs perfect.
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Tony D: what u are saying is it is probably insufficient fuel pressure or flow at that point? or possibly ignition?
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Hello i have a 76 280 with an l28et swap from an 83 zx. recently the car has had a terrible miss in the high rpms once it is fully warmed up. Also the ecu green led blinks 15-20 times in a 10 second period instead of the 5-10 it should (it used to) the car will run WOT on boost up until about ~3750rpm then it just misses. I did the resistance tests on the air flow meter, chts, and air temperature sensor and they all passed. replaced the o2 this morning and id still runs badly. the car also hates to cold start. u have to crank and crank forever.
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i have a 76 280z with an 83 l28et. It has a terrible miss that starts at ~3500rpm. the car wont rev any higher than that. The fuel tank is completely clean as well as all of the lines and filters. it acts like it goes lean. it will run at WOT on boost up until that point. i suspect it to be the CAS as the car hates to start sometimes, especially when cold. Any thoughts? i also have the spade on the bottom of the dizzy that doesnt have anything attached to it. What goes there? Aslo where is the CHTS located?
Strange rattle
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
Actually got out in the garage after work. For anyone who might read this in the future with similar issues, undo the water pump belt and run the car. My bearing was shot. New pump tomorrow, all noise is gone.