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LS240

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Everything posted by LS240

  1. Have you weighed it post-swap yet? I realize the AC is missing so it's not a direct comparison but nonetheless it would be nice to know the relative weight difference.
  2. You could maybe try to get a Reaction Research Subtle Z front bumper to work. They have that little side molding piece like the custom bumper above, which would give you a good start to work with but probably still require some modification to fit snug to a ZG flare.
  3. Not exactly ultra-low-budget stuff, but check out the Full Race 3071R kit. 425whp at 14psi on their example dyno run, which is easily manageable boost on pump gas. http://www.full-race.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1759 Seeing this makes me reconsider a V8 swap in my S13.
  4. LS240

    EJ20 Details

    I found a great diagram the other day that listed all the dimensions of both the engine and tranny. I'll do a quick search to see if I can find that again. Edit: And I found it. It's hand-drawn but easy enough to understand.
  5. I don't know who makes it but the 300ZX transmission is very strong and has been proven to hold well over 500hp reliably. That's just a little unfair. The first DOHC engine was released in 1912, only ten years after the first pushrod engine. So DOHCs are almost a century old themselves. Also, when you say boat anchor, that conjures up images of something heavy weight to most people. Thing is, pushrod engines are usually more compact and are typically lighter weight, not to mention having less parasitic valvetrain losses. Also, an LS1 is obviously a more high-tech engine than either the VH or 1UZ, as it was designed quite a bit later than either of those engines, and it was intended as a high performance engine from the outset. It has coil-on-plug ignition, a very flexible stock ECU, and extremely good heads(even normal LS1 heads, which are by no means the best of the breed, flow somewhere around 290cfm if I'm not mistaken. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.) I'm not trying to knock the VH, but the LS1 is clearly the better performance engine in almost every concievable way. It's smaller, lighter, makes more power and torque, produces less emissions and uses less fuel, has a larger, cheaper aftermarket, and if you ask me, looks better with that beautiful intake manifold, especially if you have the red Corvette fuel rail covers on it. The only thing the DOHC V8s have on it is they can rev higher. That may be important depending on your needs.
  6. How much does the VH weigh though? Isn't it more than the 1UZ? That's the thing that attracts me to the 1UZ most, it's light weight. If I just wanted lots of cheap power I'd get an LS1, but if I want low weight with good displacement and powerband, I'd go 1UZ or perhaps some other lightweight V8 I'm not yet aware of. Edit: I could only find one source but it appears the VH is around 500lbs. One guy weighed it with no intake manifold, no AC compressor, no alternator, no power steering pump, and only one exhaust manifold, and it weighed in at 478lbs. That's easily over 500 with all the accessories. That's actually a little heavier than an LS1. I'd personally just spend the extra $2K and go for the LS1 at that weight point. You might actually make up for that extra cost in the end with the LS1's staggeringly huge aftermarket with parts that cost a fraction of equivalent parts for the VH or 1UZ for that matter. There's also more knowledge and support out there for the LS1 swap. Just my $.02
  7. 3startuna from 3si I'm guessing? Going through with this huh? I certainly hope you succeed, and when you do you have to post info about subframe clearances and the like. My guess is wiring is going to be the biggest hassle. This is PumpGasVR4, btw.
  8. Were the two cars you mentioned identical other than engine? If not, that would obviously throw off the comparison. I suppose the only real way to know would be to either weigh both engine and tranny combos with absolutely everything necessary to have them running, and see what you get. Either that, or weigh a stock Z, then swap in an SR20 and weigh that without doing any other mods whatsoever that could affect the weight, other than the swap itself. Edit: Just read that engine weight thread. Thanks for the link and some very good info there. Considering a weight of 390lbs + tranny, the combo weighing very close to an SR20 makes sense, considering the 5 speed weighs around 100lbs. It still doesn't explain the discrepancy of LS1 cars only weighing 30lbs more than stock though. Unless perhaps that weight gain was measured using a 280Z and the L28 is heavier than the L24? It would have to be nearly 150lbs heavier to account for that though. Perhaps that info for LS1 swaps that I've seen has hidden info about other factors that may have skewed the results. Either that or LS1s are just so amazing they bend the laws of physics. I'm interested in empirical data on CA18DET weight. In my previous research, I've found weights quoted from 290-310lbs for a complete engine. That would result in a combo of close to 400lbs, light by any standards.
  9. That just seems weird. Based on the generally accepted notion that an LS1 swap adds around 30lbs to an S30 Z, and an LS1+T56 combo weighs around 630lbs, logically one would assume that a stock L series and tranny weighs about 600lbs. Can anyone comment on the weight of the stock engine/tranny? Based on just about everything I've ever read though, an SR20, complete with all accessories, manifolds, turbo, intercooler, and related plumbing, weighs around 330lbs. This is the figure I've seen on almost all the SR20-related forums. If that 600lbs stock engine/tranny weight is true, then the SR20 would have to have a 270lbs transmission, which seems highly unlikely. Perhaps a lot of people have been fibbing about the weight gain of an LS1 swap? Since you've actually built one, and you're obviously reputable, I'm inclined to believe you. But like I said, it just goes against all the previous information I've found.
  10. Thanks for the info! It's unfortunate there isn't enough demand for wide street tires with a reasonable wheel diamater and overall diamater to make something like that available. Something around a 335 width on a 16in wheel would be ideal on a Z, in my opinion, because it would give you a huge width without ruining the classic look of the Z by using large-diamater wheels, and without having to suffer with a rock-hard sidewall. That's just a dream though... Thanks, once again.
  11. Forgive me, I'm not familiar with everyone around here by name, but is his car still IRS? If so, what has he done for body mods to fit something that wide? I'm aware of the YJ-equipped cars fitting up to 335. I know there are plenty of tires out there as wide as this Kumho or wider, but none of them are street tires. I have an admittedly unhealthy obsession with wide tires, and always think in terms of street capability.
  12. Too bad it's on a 22in wheel. http://www.motorauthority.com/kumho-launches-worlds-first-15-series-low-profile-tire.html 385/15ZR22. With a quick calculation, that should be about a 26.5in overall diamater, which isn't too outrageous to fit under many cars. That short sidewall is going to be punishing though. It would be nice if they'd release a 385 width tire in a more reasonable 18in wheel, so you don't look like a wannabe rapper if you stick these on your car. Seriously though, 385 width? I think I got a hard on as soon as I read that. Kudos to the first person to fit something that wide on a Z. It shouldn't require anything too drastic, only about a 140mm widebody or so. My first post, by the way. Ive been a lurker for a while, and I look forward to becoming a valued member of this great community.
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