righteousrags88

Ah, I see. I didnt read all the way down to rule 12. Been selling on Forums since 2012 so I figured there was nothing new for me to read. Thanks for the heads up!

For whatever reason I cannot post in the For Sale section so I'm posting here. Mods if you see this, give me access to post in the FS section or please move this ad over to the Parts For Sale section. Thank you. Regrettably I am selling my brand new never mounted Watanabe Type R wheels. They were powdercoated gold and have been sitting in storage since 2015. They are 4x114.3 and are 15x9 et-13 15x9.5 et-19 Perfect fitment for a Z car with standard ZG flares! Wheels are located in Spokane WA. Price is $2500 shipped

bump. Still looking

Im looking for the glass headlight covers not the plastic ones. If anyone has a pair please let me know. Thanks

As the title says Im looking for Headlight covers for the 240z. And not the plastic MSA headlight covers. Im talking about the OEM glass ones with the chrome ring. If you have a pair please email me at righteous_rags@hotmail.com Thanks

What diameter of gauges did you end up going with? Is there a discount if we purchase through ihiryu?

Let me know if you decide to sell the car. I'll gladly bring it back to WA

I read through that link. Maybe mines a 10.1 comp not 10.5. Is there any way to figure that out?

Sorry I didn't make it very clear but the build has approx 1000miles on it so its not a brand new fresh rebuild persay. I still have it sitting in the 280z and can be ran and driven except for the fact that I pulled the fuel tank out to use in my 72. Its the larger capacity 280z 2+2 tank which we've already added the mount and hanger for it since its mounts alittle wide than the 240 tank but thats a whole other topic. He said he used a stage 1 cam (Im assuming its the MSA cam due to him calling it a stage 1) but said that it wiped so he temporarily put the stock cam back on until he sourced another one. Excuse me for the term but I was wanting to run something more aggressive than the "Stage 1" cam profile but this is where Id need advice. I spoke to a guy who might end up helping me on the build and he recommended me Delta also to regrind my cams so I probably will go to them once I know what profile I should do. Don't get me wrong, I know how to turn a wrench as Im assembling the entire car together myself once I get the shell finished with paint so I'd know how to install the webers. Its the whole tuning thing im clueless about, floats, jetting, etc. That and I wouldn't know how to replace a cam correctly as I never had the quality father son time to be taught ha. Car has been a giant learning curve. Im just trying to squeeze the most out of the build while keeping it streetable on pump gas. But will be driving aggressive

Sorry I wasn't trying to keep it a secret but here it is. Its a direct copy and past of what he sent me on the build. If you have questions Ill try to answer them best but Im no engine builder hence why Im asking for help. Again if you want copies of the receipts I can message you those. So to begin: The engine is a combonatin of n42 block (contains more nickel) and a p90 turbo head that I had shaved .080" to raise compresison; this head style (with peanut shaped combustion chambers, allow for ping resistance: only run 91 or up). The cam towers were shimmed up this ammount as well. The valves were redone by Rebllo (three angles). The head was ported in the exhaust bowls to allow for better flow. The head was straightened. The cam was originally stage 1 but I replaced with stock hoping to source another stock cam for a regrind for a stage 2. The valve springs are Schneider performance springs from MSA, the lash pads are hardened steel pads from JDM customs, the valve colets are from Z Car Source of Arizona. The timing kit is from ITM and the rockers are factory. Fel Pro gaskets were used. Valve seals were also fel pro. The n42 block was bored over .020" over I believe, and hot tanked. The crank was polished and the rods were balanced within a thousandth. New bearings were used all around. Pistons are cast ITM pistons (part#15401711, 280ZX .020 (.50mm) Oversize) with new rings and wrists pins. Fel pro gaskets were used. It was painted using por-15 rsut preventaive engine enamel. New freeze plugs were installed. The block was decked flat. Valve cover media blasted and powder coated. MSA cold air intake used. OEM water pump used. New puley belts New alternator New Starter. New dowle pins used for head and block Oil seal rings new (crank) Start up Lube used with ZDDP additive. Oil pan was media blasted and painted black. New plug used. The entire engine has a completley new bolt and hardware set grade 10 used, with the excpetion of a couple of specialty bolts. The spark plugs are from Nissan. the intake was media blasted and powder coated. the fuel rail was custom made. the gas tank was removed, acid dipped, lined and repainted by a radiator shop. A factory nissan fuel pump was ordered. Fuel regulator is adjustable and is from Aeromotive, with gauge on the unit. Braided steel fuel line. Stock harmonic balancer. 240sx tranny, custom driveshaft mace to accomodate the extra 2inch length, and a custom mount for the tranny made. stage 3 clutch, lighter flywheel with Nissan Japan flywheel bolts, new slave cylinder and master scylinder. New brake cyclinder, stock brake booster (2+2 booster is better, so if you switch the car out take the booster cuz its bigger) radiator is tri core with efans that are wired to an automatic temperature sensor.

So Im working on my 72 240z. I got a 78 280z that I purchased for the engine and tranny that I was gonna swap over to the 72. The engine has been built by the PO and I have the build sheet with copies of the receipts. Basically he temporarily put the stock cam back into it but I wanted to run a more aggressive cam as the engine comp is 10.5. Also its FI but I have a set of triple 40dcoe webers that I wanted to convert it to. Im looking for someone around the Seattle area who knows these L series engines and with the parts combo that I have and want to put into it can put it all together and tune it for most optimal performance. Im not at the stage of where Im ready to put it into my 72 as its getting painted right now so Id want to use this time to button together and tune the engine so that when the time comes I can just drop it in. Feel free to message me and I can give my phone number and message you my build sheet. Thanks Igor

Literally just spent the last 4+ hours reading this entire thread from page one. Didn't know what 99% of what all the science and numbers meant but who cares! Cant wait for when these heads are ready for purchase although I may not have the cash when they do but I sure know how to make things work. Glad I got into the 240z scene a year ago. Keep it Up!

yeah I might just swap the harness from my parts car and just upgrade from there. I guess I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

Hi, Im Igor and Im located in Auburn Wa. Im working on a 72 240z. I may be jumping the gun with asking for this assistance but Im not sure when would be the right time to tackle this project. Currently my car is just a bare shell that Ive almost completed doing the metal work on so there is nothing there. The previous owner unplugged and pulled out the wiring harness with the whole dash console so im not too sure where all plugs go and is basically a pile of wiring harness. However Ive got another complete 72 Z as a parts car that I was going to transfer bits off little by little and transferring the wiring harness myself, that way Id know where everything would go. But recently Ive been reading up and it seems like the old wiring is not very reliable and not to mention old and quite a few have upgraded to an EZ wiring kit and have rebuilt their whole harness. I found a brand new 21 plug EZ wiring kit for sale locally and bought it. But am afraid of attempting this on my own because I basically have 0 electrical knowledge and would be biting off way more than I can chew. My case may be alittle more trickier as I have a 3rd 78 280z that I was going to pull the engine, tranny, aluminum radiator and electric cooling fans etc out of and transplant it into mine. The motor is EFI but Ive got triple webers that I was going to be swapping on instead so no need to worry about wiring an ECU. Not sure if there will be other differences in the 78 280z wiring but essentially I will be using 3 cars to build one. If any one is able and willing to help me out with this it would be extremely appreciated! Again Im not sure when would be the correct time to do this but I figured it would be easier when there is a bare shell rather than uprooting and redoing a whole harness from a finished car. If interested I can give you mine number as well. Thank You

purchased some. Thank You

I know it's probably a shot in the dark but if anyone has any original s30 fender mirrors and wants to sell them, please let me know. Thanks

thanks for the responses. Looking for an sti diff

Hi, I seem to only find people using wrx sti rear diffs in their Datsun and cant seem to find any info if the the regular wrx non sti diff will work in a 240z. Are they not considered a r180? I can get a decent wrx for $100 whereas an sti one will be north of $400. If you can would it be recommended or is it worth spending the extra coin for an sti diff. All I know is the regular wrx is 3.54 and the sti is a 3.91. Also it looks like Beta motorsports doesn't exist anymore. Where is the cheapest place to get cv parts for the converstion? Thanks