Derek

Yikes. Is the Ford a PWM controlled like the Bosch?

In theory the butterfly's should be closed at idle and all of your idle air controlled by the valve. 6 butterflies slightly cracked is not a dependable metering method for the air. It can also build up gunk over time but I doubt that will ever be a problem with Mr " I can eat of my motor because it's so clean" Yes I'm jealous .

Wow I missed this post. Great work Tioga. Very clean.

Then what about the other three I'm going to take my old set and re-cable them. I'll feel safer at this point with that solution.

Well isn't this just the icing on the cake. Worked my ass off all day to get the car back on the road. Backed it out of the shop for a test drive, puled up on the parking brake I feel tension then POP no more brake. Back up on the lift and this is what greets me. Blew the crimp end completely apart. Since the amount of pull is dictated by the factory E-brake system there is no way in hell his should have broken. What a disappointment. I don't know if Zcar Depot makes these or not but this is a bit alarming to say the least.

Too late Kind of ugly but it will work. Took the supplied U piece of metal and stepped it out .375". This moved the cable end far enough away from the caliper to get full travel on the cable before the clevis bottomed out. Really should have been .4375 or .5" but it works. I ended up using up a lot of the adjustment in the E-brake system. The U piece is 3mm thick which allows the use of the factory clip. I made .5" thick spacer blocks to improve the angle of attack on the caliper lever. This completely solved that issue. Other than this everything else wen't pretty smoothly. I would not recommend this kit though until they correct this issue and develop better instructions. Based on my experience with this "kit" I've decided to offer the KN20 head in kit form. Here is the first one ready to sell.

So I bought a Rear disk kit from Zcar depot. No instructions of course because that would make it all too easy. They have a video that is pretty close to worthless . Brake install If you want a laugh while you are in quarantine watch it and see if you can figure out the E-brake. I also purchased one of their replacement E-brake cables. So here is my question for anyone who has done this. How did you get the E-brake cables to work. The E-brake brackets leave a lot to be desired. The bracket material is too thick to use the original clip system to retain the cable housing so it basically flops around. They supply 2 U clips but since there is no groove exposed it won't work. But that doesn't matter because they aren't designed for clipping. I called them and the person told me that the bracket is basically universal and they supply the U clip to weld on the bracket. Now not only was I not aware of that since there were no instructions it still will leave the cable sheath flopping around in the bracket. Plus at that point the cables were already in the car and although I have a TIG welder that mod will be my last choice. The angle of attack on the bracket is not really proper for the motion and after rigging it up with my best guess, because you know no instructions, There does not seem to be enough travel between the clevis and the sheath to allow full actuation of the brake. I bought this kit because I didn't want to do the engineering on something I was not going to produce and sell and now it looks like I have to do the engineering after all. Now it's very possible that I am fully missing the concept of how this should go together but so far I'm at a loss. Thanks Derek

Thanks for the reply. That helps. The bar on my 73 is different than the 280.

The one that mounts in front of the diff. I need to know the distance from the center line on the bar where it mounts to the frame to the center of the hole in the end. +/- .25". Not that critical just trying to identify what I have. Thanks, Derek

Looking great Duffy. I'll have my crank back today. I ended up with 84.84mm stroke and setup for the Toyota rods.

Yea the B&M is kind of a little too clicky if that makes sense. I'm hoping that I adjust to it over time but it's a huge difference from the stock 4 speed.

Thanks for the help. Did the coupler pull right off? Or was sone sort of incendiary deice implemented:)

Yes the rubber boot. Did you use the B&M shifter? It has a large plastic coupler on the shaft and the boot won't pull over it. Thanks Derek

Question for those that have done this swap and used the B&M 45088 shifter. What did you do for the rubber inner boot? The stock one does not look like it is going to work. Thanks Derek

It's amazing how much of that gets picked up in the audio. I can never get a satisfactory recording of mine either. Good luck with the tune. ITB's rock:)