Derek

What it takes to get there is not going to answered here most likely because it is a list that is long. The absolute best advice I would give you is to contact Datsunspirit. Pay the price they quote and you will get what you want. It will be expensive. Plus they work directly with Jenvey. This is going to sound harsh but it is reality. If you are asking here then you probably don't have the skill set ( I don't) to actually leverage the different opinions that may be presented and actually build this type of motor. Getting to 9K reliably is a really heavy lift in my opinion. Getting to 7000 is easy. That that extra 2000 is where the real talent comes in. I'm going to rephrase your question for you: Question for those that have motors that go to 9000 RPM's. What did it cost:)

And now I hate you:)

This is pretty standard in my experience for all suppliers during Covid. None of the Z car parts places are fully stocked. I have the same issues with non car related suppliers as well. Except of course Mc Master Carr. They are a national treasure:)

I saw that after I posted and yes shipping is stupid. like $40.00 USD or more. The 280 is a very tricky design. Here are some of the different attempts we made trying to get the fit right.

Just save yourself some time and buy a set of mine:) $110.00 plus shipping.

Correct. the 45 ACP bore laser is 12MM OD.

Yea that's why I made the slip adapter. The other methods with a magnet didn't seem to be accurate.

Motor tilting back/down. Pinion flange pointing up. Technically that means the pinion shaft is tilting down according to the literature I read.

So I made a laser alignment tool based on a few Ideas I gleaned from the forum. I made a slip collar that fits over the CD009 output shaft that holds a 45ACP laser bore setter. I'm using this for the horizontal alignment. Works well. I made a target that has a couple of alignment lines. The bottom is parallel/perpendicular to those lines so you can use a level to get it plumb. I then proceeded to drill so many holes in it that it's almost useless:) The key word here is almost. That was a far over to centerline as I could get it. I need to rework either the Diff mount or the trans mount to get it any further but it's only about a half a degree so I may live with it. I'm running the Technoversions RT mount and I switched to the top mount instead of the stock bottom. This brought the pinion angle down to 2.8 degrees. The transmission is at 2.9 degrees so I'm pretty satisfied. Hard to tell if it made much of a difference but the math says it should.

I bought both off of ebay. The 3.9 was supposedly out of a 2004 with under 36K miles. It has a noticeable whine at 50 which leads me to believe that under 36K was wrong. The 3.54 was out of a 2019 with 19K and it looks like it. I was learning to live with the 3.9 but then the 6 speed made me want a 3.54. Buying a used rear end is a crap shoot.

I'm leaning that direction as well. I have a block that will work at 89 but it's on the edge. I already have enough to worry about:)

If it's any consolation I'm envious of the 3.2. Things keep getting in the way. Although the crank is done so that is a pretty big part of it.

I'm doing exactly the same bottom end and after hearing that now I really need to move it along. Sounds great. You know a KN20 head would solve that pesky power drop off problem:)

Preaching to the choir Thank goodness for a twin post lift and an air conditioned shop. Nor do I. I based all my calculations on 75mph cruise speeds. I then drove the car at the revs that the calculator listed for the different ratios to get a feel for it. The 3.79 first gear gives some options as far as final drive choice in my opinion. Yea the CD009 isn't exactly known as a silent gear box by any stretch. My main complaint is in neutral clutch out the input shaft noise is a little bothersome.

In the video I'm running a 3.9. It pulls out of the hole really well even with my low HP build. The problem for me was on the highway it was taching too high for my comfort. The motor is pretty quiet down below 2800 or so and at 75 mph it was a little loud for me. I pulled the 3.9 and put the 3.364 back in. As expected the highway RPM's came way down but out of the hole was lacking. If I had my 3.2 built It probably would be fine. I just bought a Subie 3.54 LSD and I think (hope) that it will be my forever differential. I use this drive train calculator to play around with and it really helps. It's for 4WD so ignore the transfer case section:) It's nice because it has two columns and you can easily compare between different combinations. http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html Instructions: http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears_instructions.html CD009 Ratios: 1st 3.79 2nd 2.32 3rd 1.62 4th 1.27 5th 1.0 6th .79