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cdl1542

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Posts posted by cdl1542

  1. The 280Z tach works from voltage, not current.  So you'll have to wire it correctly.

     

    Offer some clues about how you wired up the ZX system and what, exactly, the tach does or doesn't do, and you might get some help.  It wasn't even apparent that you had the distributor installed from your first post.  And "doesn't work" could mean almost anything.

     

    I'm running the ZX matchbox distributor in accordance with this diagram. The old tach doesn't move or even bounce now and worked flawlessly before. I'm hoping to either figure out a way to rewire the old tach to make it work or put a 280z tach in the old housing and figuring out how it should be wired.

    : StockToZXIng.jpg

  2. Some people have no problems, some do.  There's no real tricks to the conversion, the ZX module does what the points used to do.  The tach still sees the current flowing in to the positive post of the coil.  Try it and see what happens.  There's a guy on another forum who said that he had zero issues with his 240Z, it was a simple problem-free swap.

     

    The MSD system is different in how it pulls the current to load the capacitors, I believe (guessing).  It pulls less or more or not as cleanly.  

     

    Interesting. I can't seem to get it to work (early car 11/70 build). I am going to attempt to take a later tach (280z), put it in the early housing and see if that does me any good.

  3.  Hi everyone,

    I've read the how to article on here for using a stock tach with the MSD setup and was wondering if anyone had any experience using the stock tach in a 240z with a 280zx matchbox distributor. Looking forward to hearing some results! I'm trying to stick with the stock gauges as best as possible for a period look.

     

    Chris

  4. Hi everyone,
    Thought I'd post my layout for an oil cooler with measurements and the like if anyone wants to replicate or take some design cues from it in the future. I'm planning on running it bosozoku style with the lines outside and will probably tuck the cooler just behind the bumper but visible. As for the pieces I'm going to be using I have the quantity, name and number listed:

     

    (1x) Earls Oil Cooler 4x13x2"  41308ERL

    (2x) Jegs -8AN Polished Banjo- 555-101022

    (1x) 15' -8AN SS Braided hose 555-100923

    (2x) Jegs -8AN Polished straight fitting 555-101002

    (2x) Jegs -8AN to 3/8" NPT 45* fitting 555-110127

     

    I was planning on using the 280zxt sandwich plate I have but realized that I don't have the center piece to it so I'm lanning on using the transdapt 1313 model sandwich adapter. Stay tuned for pictures.

  5. Hi all, Looking for a late style THREE wire tachometer from a 280z or equivalent to replace the 4 wire one I have in my Z. I upgraded to an electronic ignition and need a three wire tach so I have a working gauge. Thanks!

     

    Chris

  6. You have to pick one.  The only way to fit your words is that the clutch is in a state of constant slippage.

     

    Is this a new problem on a system that was working fine?  Or is it a bunch of new parts that aren't working right?

     

    The best way I can put it is that I can shift through the gears when the car is off, but the clutch pedal doesn't seem to be doing anything. It's not a new problem from a working system, it's new parts together that don't want to work.

  7. Hi all,

    My clutch won't engage or disengage and I can't seem to figure out the issue. It's a 280zx 5 speed transmission, dual center force clutch, has the 280zx slave cylinder as well. Lines are bled properly, new slave cylinder installed and bled. It seems as thought the slave cylinder will not move the fork which is leading me to think its the throw out bearing but I would appreciate any insight on the topic. Thanks!

     

    Chris

  8. Undo the bolts after soaking in penetrant.

    Remove banding covers.

    Remove insulating rubbers.

    Remove fuel lines.

    Replace vacant slots in insulators with stub keepers to keep rubber clamping brake lines.

    Reinstall insulating rubbers,

    Reinstall banding covers.

    Secure with bolts.

    Done.

    Thanks! I'm looking to delete the hard lines completely. I just put in a 3.1L stroker and want to just route a SS braided hose to the tank and just delete these for a cleaner look and simpler system.

  9. Hi all, been really working hard on my Z and want to remove the stock return and fuel lines for my stroker/mikuni setup. I haven't been able to find any information on the right way to go about doing this and was hoping for some recommendations for someone who's done it before. Thanks for your help.

     

    Chris

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