stagefumer11
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Posts posted by stagefumer11
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check your alternator. Could be heating up under the loads and dropping voltage, This with a worn/tired battery could be causing weak spark.. Another one is a bad ground, Over time with the larger that normal loads in track work the battery to chassis, or to block ground is failing, Causing resistance though the heat build-up.
I know it sounds weird, But ive had similar things happen.. Current makes heat, Heat can cause resistance. = low voltage
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why not get a .86 garret housing fitted?
I had a .82 garret exhaust housing fitted to my hx40, with minimal work required..
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Try and port/enlarge your oil return, Most stock returns are to small for what the holset require
Anyone here running a hx40 yet ? I have one mounted to my l28, Which isnt running yet, would love to see some numbers
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Yeah, it moves the turbo right up, backwards and out towards the guard a bit, I'm not sure how much difference it would make on a LHD car, but it clears everything on a RHD drive car including the engine mount when running a big compressor housing.
oh.. Djz. You havnt posted up here in a while.
Im using the same Adaptor Phill is using. Havnt got the car running yet to find out how it performs
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Im running a rb30e Flywheel behind my l28et .
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fingers crossed that is the cause, will be good to see if it works or not.
Ive always had problem in which port to use. I dont understand why they have a top venting port..
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definitely interesting the whole throttle body thing, Makes me wounder if im going backwards, since im running a 80mm unit .
Would i be better off. adapting a smaller 60mm unit ?
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WOAH THERE!
This is not a 'best' discussion. Nobody has told me an answer to the question I posed, other than cosmetics or theoretical nebulosity. I stated outright I did not know just that it seems to me if E-Motive got 1000hp out of that engine, then I really wonder WHY that huge TB is there. Do you really need it. I have already stated that if there is someone who wants it there, that's fine by me. But if someone is stating factually, or implying that it in somehow is better suited than a smaller TB---I would like to know why.
Best is determined by the use of the machine, and it's application. As I stated, maybe this is a Drag Race Part, and in that realm it is properly aplplied. Similarly, when its applied (say like an 1100 Holley Dominator) onto a roadrace or street application of half the horsepower....is it helping or harming that application?
Maybe Phil is DOING something. If he's up on the dyno, it would seem it would be easy enough with that intake to prefab several adapter plates and put a Q45, 75mm, 70mm, 65mm, 60mm, 55mm, and 50mm TB on there with a dedicated intercooler return pipe to do back-to-back comparos for which setup INDEED would be "Best for Phil"---and damned interesting to boot. If I had the time, I'd swing by the dyno and assist, hell, even chip in some money for the Dyno Time such is my interest in this particular subject.
Understand, I have to build an engine to run at Bonneville... Anything that will get me significant WOT HP will be of interest to me. It will be a highly purpose-built motor, so I'm not worried about Tip-In or that kind of modulation crap. What I need I can make out of a nautilis linkage, no problem.
But if I find I make significantly more torque which will allow me to accelerate through the gears quicker, and assist me when pulling wider spreads...all by using something smaller than a Q45 body, or something Humongo, then I have to defer to the functional demands of the setup.
I'm asking why, and thusfar there really hasn't been 'I tried this on the dyno and found' kind of an answer, nor has any real convincing evidence been proffered as to why 'bigger is better' after a given diameter or horsepower level.
As it is, I will likely have to build the intake...oh waitaminit, we're not using a single air door... or will we? That all remains to be determined!
Remember, the GT-R comes with triple style butterflies, and these guys change to a big single... There's no way the 6 opened 45mm butterflies are anywhere near the cross sectional area of the single. At least not by looking at it. Most of these 'big body' RB plenums are actually a step down in size from the flow potential of the existing butterflies. Which reinforces my question 'why are these guys downsizing the throttle area'?
Sorry tony, I think i typed that out incorectly. .. I was merely waiting for a update from Phill...
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I think the best thing is.. Where is phill.. Ive been waiting for update for along time
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Would be interesting to see what a larger hotside a/r will do actually
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Have you tried using a wastegate spring rated closest to the psi you want to run ? That would help spool rates.. (lower threshold)
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ooooo!, Has the head change eliminated the surge yet?.. Bring on the dyno tune
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http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/125645-3-5-bar-boost-how.html
Here is a interesting thread, that can help you with the flow limitations with compressor wheels. Its a very good read... Of course this doesn't help you with the surge.
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use can also use a dull file.. To knock it back flush..
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Hey NZeder, I have that same Intake on my '79 Fairlady Z, and it has the dual throttle butterfly - one smaller and one bigger. I'll also share some pictures for those interested. The diameter of the head-side runners are 27mm compared to 30mm on a normal manifold.
P65 Intake_3.JPG
Nice to see other New Zealander's on the forums
plenty of us here mate
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add me to msn messenger mate
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I was 1 of the founding 4 members of Skylinesdownunder & I have had several HR30 Skylines and all of mine have had the L20et or just the L20e
except for a 5 door hatch that I aquired which had a LD28 in it,
The DR30's came out with the FJ20DE and FJ20DET depending on the year and as metioned above the R31 came out with the RB20E an RB30E Mill in them.
In saying that I have also owned 2 Z cars also and the 280ZX I Had had the same twin choke throttlebody on it's intake but it wasn't a NAPS manifold as you have pictured above, and the fairlady had the same as the Skyline on it's L20E, which can be changed to 1 if an RB20 with a little modification to the RB20 throttlebody (they open the opposite way)
Got anymore info pics ect on this r30 your building, id love to see it
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Engine: L28E+T, Rebuilt, Stock N42 Block, Stock pistons new rings, Bearings ect, L20et Sump, N42 head Mildly flowed ported, Port matched to intake flange.
Turbo System:
Holset Hx40w (60mm inducer) 16cm2 exhaust side, Custom RIPS Intake, 40mm Runners, Velocity stacks, 80mm Billet Throttle body, 2.5 hot side intercooler piping, 3" Cold side
Intake:
Custom intake
Engine Management: Link G4 Storm serries ECU,
Fuel: Bosh 044 Main line pump, 2L Surge tank, Feed buy Euro Bosh Merc pump (Porsche turbo upgrade pump). 550cc Rx7 injectors, Pallnet fuel rail, Unkowen FPR,
Ignition: Rb20det Coils with lead extensions, Vg30det/Rb25det Cas on stock l28/l20et Dizzy base gutted and mount system.
HP: Unkowen, Goal is 300rwkw
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Wow.... nice photos!!!!!
/sarcasm/ I think your throttle body might be a little on the small side.../sarcasm/
I think ill need a 100mm unit
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Sure, When i get home. Actually might have some on my photo bucket hang on
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Ive got this far.
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definitely not a Hr30 until a JDM one if that helps in anyway, Looks like the one i pulled off my 79 l28..
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, From what ive found here in NZ only the automatic l28's and the Turbo L20et's
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with my old l20et i used vg30et injectors. which are 270cc, if you can find any near you that would help. Im pretty adimint that the l20et ecu will run the l28 happly.. But you;d need to swap the oil pump/dizzy drive and dizzy over to the l20et CAS unit..
Check to see what oil pump is on the l20et to.. Both of mine (JDM) had the same oil pump as the l28et Automatic. H4 rings a bell, I'd have to confurm that tho..
Ive done the some converions in my Hr30 skyline, She isnt running yet.. (funding) Orginialy had a l20et, now a n42/n42combo with l20et gear and alot more.
vipec runing well on home tune/not dynoed yet
in Other EMS
Posted
vipec are just rebadged link ecu's arnt they ?
Which are some of the best out there