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Stock Car Mafia

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Stock Car Mafia last won the day on July 26 2016

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About Stock Car Mafia

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    Minneapolis, MN

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  1. I forgot to mention, I had to build a custom tune to get the AFR to scale while I changed the RPM from 1,000 to 4,000. I had to disable the MAF and a few other things to allow the system to stay in open loop. From there I set the PE enrichment to range from 1.420 (AFR of 10.35) at 1,000 rpm to 0.918 (AFR of 16.01) at 4,000 rpm. This allowed me to get the AFR to change from an otherwise static 14.7 in closed loop.
  2. Over the last few weeks I was able to sell off my stock tires, all A/C stuff, gas tank, stock hood, mirrors, and some miscellaneous CBR bike parts I had laying around. It is nice to soften the blow of the new motor. I still have had little time to spend any time on the car except for driving it to and from work. We did find a free power wheels jeep for the 4 year old and I ended up buying 2 decent batteries so we could get her juiced up to 24 volts. She loves having something to drive One concept I've had a tough time wrapping my head around is making sure my wideband O2 sens
  3. I am working with a guy to sell all of my stock A/C components from under the hood but also the evaporator under the dash. Since I still need to figure out, what in the hell is wrong with my oil pressure gauge, I figure this is a good opportunity to remove the remainder of the stuff. Weight reduction bro!
  4. In preparation for getting HPTuners today, I spent some time over the weekend installing a bung for the WEGO III wideband AFR sensor I picked up. It uses a Bosch LSU 4.2 oxygen sensor. The sensor seems pretty nice after reading about it. The device has the capability if connecting a tach signal and TPS or MAP sensor to datalog. It has it's own software to run independently which supplies data with USB. The greatest thing that made this a good option for me is it was cheap and came with a 0-5V output to connect to tuning software. The brown wire (to tach sign
  5. Mine runs hot but it gets to a point where it will go above 230 if I don't get air moving through the front. It just makes me feel uncomfortable. I was looking for more power but room to grow if I go boosted without the fear of bending rods or popping a ringland on a piston. I'm thinking as long as a motor is forged you are safe up to 900 hp before you'd need 6 bolt style heads. But I've seen aluminum blocks run to 1000+ so I wouldn't worry. That power is only needed for AWD cars or strict drag racers. I would prefer to race a car other than going straight. At this point i
  6. I ended up getting a electric water pump off the forums as well. For some reason the damn motor gets to about 220-230 while sitting in stop and go traffic and I am not ok with that. I think this should do the trick and I don't believe I will have problems at the higher rpm either. Time will tell.
  7. So I've been debating for months and keeping my eyes open for used engines and superchargers. I took the plunge and got a fully forged LS3 416 stroker off of LS1tech. It has: ARP main studs, head studs, and rod bolts Callies Compstar crank Callies Compstar H beam rods Wiseco -3cc pistons gapped for nitrous/blower Trickflow 235cc cathedral port heads milled 0.045" 11.98:1 compression ratio 10296 Melling ported high pressure oil pump BTR 247/255 .624/.624 113+3 cam Katech timing chain 10% underdrive ATI damper The motor has the Corvette pulley so I am g
  8. I will have to look this up. As I recall, I could never find the manufacturer of this hood, only pictures of it. I knew it is the one I wanted but they quit making them a long time ago, so I had to buy a used one that I found out of California. If you can find that video, send me a PM on here or on Facebook so I can check it out! Thanks! It's been a lot of work to get to this point, but my imagination prevents me from being satisfied
  9. Right now it has LED bulbs all the way around. I think that cuts down on the load, however I think the harness and stock switches are just getting to the end of their life. When I strip the car down next, I will rewire the whole thing and only have the necessities and definitely invest more time in organizing and routing of all circuits. I want a CLEAN install, not added stuff just piggy backed on the stock harness. Right now I have been spending as much time as I can reading on HPTuners and trying to digest that software. It is definitely a process and takes a focus to co
  10. I'll have a hard time containing myself over the next few weeks but I will have a big update coming in roughly 4 weeks! I am in the midst of preparing for it but will post up when I have more to speak of During the Phoenix race today I would sneak out in the garage periodically. I had a little 3 yr. old helper assisting me in replacing my blinker bulbs. I was looking to chase down an issue with my blinkers. Last year I had a small poof of smoke from under the steering column that gave me QUITE a scare. It turns out the blinker switch shorted out and slightly melted the plastic p
  11. When my car was on the ground I would measure the frame rails underneath at 4 locations. If on jack stands, I would say use a level on the frame underneath.
  12. When I dropped the car, the toe was WAY OFF. It only took 5 times or so to get it dialed in. I haven't test drove the car yet since I don't have my full exhaust. The car really runs like shit with open headers now, and I believe it is due to the lack of back pressure and the camshaft I have added.
  13. Well it turns out, we finally had some free time this weekend and I was lucky enough to get out in the garage. I have the exhaust off, waiting for the new V band bold to show up, so I went ahead and welded all the pin holes shut. There was probably 8 spots total. I also rewired and extended a handful of wires that run to the positive post on the battery. I wanted to try to hide them so it doesn't look like a rats nest. It is "better". Down the road I still plan on hiding the whole body harness underneath the fender so the engine bay has that cleaner look. I got a re
  14. I definitely need to get in there and see what I can find. I have taken the air compressor many times to no avail. Trust me Racer X, that is one of the cars that I drool over! I would love to get that kit some day, but I am waiting to do all the body work, until I am "happy" with the car. Who knows if that day will ever come. That is where the flares came from. They fit the best BY FAR. I had another set (can't recall who) and they fit like crap. If you are looking for the right choice, go with RHDJapan.
  15. A few days ago i pulled the dash out to fix two of the gauge lights that didn't work. I assumed the issue was I piggy backed two lights from one power wire. I ended up cutting the oil pressure and water pressure lights and rewired one to the cigarette lighter bulb. I put dash back in and the lights weren't fixed. I pulled the dash once again and took the LED bulbs out and revered the 2 pins. Voila! The bulbs now work! What I don't like about the Autometer LED's is they don't mark which pin needs the positive feed. So the side stamped "12V" I figured was the hot pin. This worked
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