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Equizyme

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Posts posted by Equizyme

    Brackets for Z32 brakes on a S30

    in Vendor's Forum

    Posted · Edited by Equizyme

    On 4/15/2018 at 9:44 PM, JoeK said:

    Custom is never cheap. But Wilwood rotor discs aren't what I'd call astronomical. I have a pair I bought to do this exact thing, I think they were like $50 each. But yes, the cost of the custom hats made me go another route, which was Odyssey rotors. Even so, I had a hard time finding a machinist who would even touch the job of modifying stock car parts. They were all concerned about liability.

     

    If someone made a custom run, it'd be better priced. Maybe even reasonable. I'd be in for a set too. I've got a pair of Wilwood discs just taking up space currently.

    You're right about the wilwoods, from anywhere else though the prices were around 600 for hats and discs and 400 for just discs.  

    Arif It may be worth sending some pm's to the people who haven't paid in case they haven't checked this thread in a while.

    Brackets for Z32 brakes on a S30

    in Vendor's Forum

    Posted

    On 4/13/2018 at 6:47 PM, JoeK said:

    Might be better to have some custom rotor hats made. The hats never wear out and when your rotors are worn you just order new ones from Summit or wherever. 

    Unfortunately hats and rotor discs are astronomically expensive. But so are custom rotors so, here we are.

    Running rich, CHTS and ECU not communicating

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    what kind of mileage is poor? what's your drivetrain like? 4 speed, 5 speed? i may be wrong about this but it's my understanding that when you go WOT any and all adaptivity from the ecu goes out the window and it runs basically full fuel demand, obviously mitigated a bit by the fpr. i have an 81 zxt motor in my 77' and i get black smoke when i get on it. a little isn't necessarily a bad thing. i would be more worried if it was affecting driveability. the fact that you seem to be getting normal A/F ratio's under all condition aside from WOT would make me think everything's working just fine. 10-12:1 is where you will make the most power from my understanding.

    S14 rear caliper question for 280Z

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    After a quick google search, I found this

    http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/s13-240sx-89-94/100027-s13-s14-rear-caliper-same.html

     

    "the calipers are the same, the bracket for the ebrake is different"

     

    "The brake hose fittings are the same but the S13 calipers have a 35mm piston and the S14 calipers have a 38mm piston. The e-brake cable holders won't swap because the bolts holes are cast in a different location. You can put the s13 e-brake actuator lever on the S14 caliper but you'll have to bend it up a little to clear the S14 cable holder. They use the same pads."

    Brake issues 1978 280z

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted · Edited by Equizyme

    I can't tell you what specific lengths you might need for doing your own brake lines, but i did do a custome brake line setup on a guys old truck from pretty much the master all the way to the calipers. if you're patient its Easy to bend the lines by hand. just make sure you have the right size fittings and tube diameter. idk how confident/experienced you are but if you are any kind of mechanically inclined brake lines are pretty damn easy.

    seattlejester's 1971 240Z

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    Out of curiosity, why is it that you'd want someone else to pull the trans? manuals are pretty simple and as long as you have a good jack you can probably have it out on the floor in under 2 hours. If you're scared to do it I'd be more than willing to help. I'm planning on doing my 5 speed swap soon so i could use the practice haha.

    for the drain plug you might look into getting one with a rubber seal attached to it, so you're not getting new seals every time you change the oil.

    seattlejester's 1971 240Z

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    I always start with reusing all the old shims when i rebuild diffs. it usually gets you in the ballpark. its nice to have all the special tools to measure pinion depth etc. as long as you set your pinion preload right, and the backlash and pattern look good you should be totally fine. the little click you are hearing is most likely the pinion engaging the ring gear after taking up the slack from the backlash, and it will go away once everything is assembled and lubed up. if you do find your self a little on the tight side of your specs don't worry about it. everything will wear in over time and be right in the butter zone. Always err on the side of too much lube! a little too much will always get pushed out of the way. to little will cause damage. You're gonna have to post some more pictures soon.

    seattlejester's 1971 240Z

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    If you find yourself doubting your work on the diff i'd be more than happy to help. i've built a few diffs and have a whole dealership shop at my disposal. plus i work in Bellevue. so I'm close. aside from that stuff your build is looking great man. i'm about to start getting cranking on my own after a little bit of a hiatus. Maybe ill see you around.

    looking for machine shop/engine builder in pacific northwest

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    I've tried searching the site a few times and didn't really get anywhere. ill definitely have to check out Eastco. I know of a few damn good Machinist's up here but none with any L-series experience. The guys I know I will be going to for the block work. but i want a specialist for the head. and as for rebello I know they do fantastic work and have large amount of experience, but its a little far and every mile=$$$ for shipping. I may end up going that way though.

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