280z4me2
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Posts posted by 280z4me2
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Por 15 is great for heavy rusted areas and is damn near bullet proof. Zero rust is a great after blast coating before undercoat.
Being that the shop will not get every scale of rust while blasting. My vote would be por 15 then topcoat it with there tie coat priimer. Easier to sand then por once cured and can be topcoated.
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Would you happen to know the total thickness of your spacers?
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Exactly what I needed. Thanks!
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On a car like this , POR15 and Zero Rust will be your best friend. Preferably por15 as I have used both. I patch welded my inner fenders and engine bay and por 15, then used there tie-coat primer, then a flat black paint. Almost 6 years later and not a single sign of rust or paint failure. I recommend using it on all of the hard to reach areas and inner panels. Especially if you aren't blasting the car.
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My car was worse then that and I had never done body work before. I say go for it! Will be a great learning experience and you'll appreciate the end result that much better
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Just received my bad-dog frame rails for my 280Z. Car will have a LT1 so any extra frame support to ease my mind(and not be to much overkill) would be great.
While I have the car upside down, I am thinking of welding a few cross braces from one to the other. Maybe a weld in drive shaft loop...??? Anyone here done it?
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Swapping an LT1 into my 76 280z. Car had electrical issues so all harnesses were trashed. I have plans to do a painless kit for all interior controls and the motor on a stand alone harness. I was looking at buying all autometer mechanical gauges but I do like the looks of the stock gauges and it would be much cheaper to keep them. What would be the easiest route to take with wiring in stock gauges? Should I buy all 240z gauges since they are mechanical since I am not using that portion of the motors wiring harness and sensors?
Also, the T56 clutch master cylinder . What would you recommend as a bolt in unit? Anyone running stock?
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Why are the spacers different thickness for each side according to JTR? Seems like the motor would lean sideways if I am thinking correctly.
Anyway you could measure the thickness of your spacers on each side for others to use as a template?
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Great, just picked them up tonight. Know of a good source to buy rubber boots? Also, anyone have info on that adapter being made and used?
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great, they are 280zxt. I take it the Z31 shafts are two different lengths since mine are the same length.
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Couldnt find my answer and going to pick these up tonight. Guy claims they are 280zxt cv shafts. Bolt look to be similar length and have 6 bolt flanges. What is the difference between turbo and not turbo cv shafts?
Also, this adapter is currently being made by a friend of mine at a machine shop. Has anyone here made these within these specs? Any issues? http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/34969-cv-adapter-print/page__p__452891__hl__%2Badapter+%2Bdrawing__fromsearch__1#entry452891
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Wont I only need a fuse for the pcm? The other interior parts will have there own panel...
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I am still working on the car and rebuilding the trans at the moment. Wiring is still on my mind though and I have no idea what I'm doing. I'm basically starting with a shell. I scrapped the dash harness and I'm using all mechanical gauges and toggle switches for all light controls.
I have the mindset that all i have to do it plug in the harness to the motor, mount the pcm and just delete all wiring that I no longer need. Then have someone alter the pcm to delete emissions crap.Is it really as simple as I'm thinking since I wont have a dash harness or stock gauges..???
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How do you meassure to know its dead on? And why is one side so much thicker than the other?
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I plan to make the set back plates and spacers. How detailed are the spacer widths in design? Should they be exact to JTR spacer width or as close as possible while stalacking up 1/4 and 1/8" plates?
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I already purchased the Sanderson D port headers. motor is ready to go in minus the engine mounts. I plan on making the set back plates.
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Can someone direct me to the motor mounts I need for a 350 swap?
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Street cruisin will be 90% ... may be a track car on the weekends.....
Ride height is 17's tucked as much as possible.
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Will stock shocks not work? Haven't even dissembled mine yet to know for sure... just ordered my coilover kit so all I need is shocks now.
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Just curious which shocks everyone is running with there coilovers? Im looking for something that wont break the bank. To many options to choose based on a guess
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This is a some what budget build so If I can get away with some used 350 block huggers I may do that. I have read people are using regular block huggers on the LT1 even though the heads are D-Port and it hasnt caused a problem for them. Anyone here ever use a specific brand of block huggers other than JTR and got way with clearance?
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Been reading of trouble with block buggers due to angle plugs. Will the stock camaro headers clear in an s30?
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Want to change a few gaskets while the motor is on the stand. Just curious if the stock oil pan clears everything in an s30. That way I can change it while im at it.
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Do you have a 280? If so, did you have to bore the sleeves to fit?
Opinions on POR 15, zinc powdercoat or epoxy as a primer.
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
Por 15 is great for heavy rusted areas and is damn near bullet proof. Zero rust is a great after blast coating before undercoat.
Being that the shop will not get every scale of rust while blasting. My vote would be por 15 then topcoat it with there tie coat priimer. Easier to sand then por once cured and can be topcoated.