rajien2

haha.... brace your about to be blasted for not searching...... Second back away slowly from the idea of doing an engine swap without any car mechanics experience. Do you know anything about fuel injection systems or ECU controls? The RB engines are extremely digital controlled worked of art, this would not just be a drop in and plug and play. I sure know at 17 I did not have $10,000+ laying around... Also keep in mind your car will not be operational for weeks if you know what your doing and have the money, month if not years in your case. Sooo.. With that said why are you swapping this engine, what is the current state of the car, are you prepared to pay a pro shop to build this for you? Will your parents let you destroy their garage for months with a non operational car? For more details on the RB swap look at this post. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/13076-so-you-wanna-swap-an-rb-eng-here-ya-go/ Now I have not seen a step by step guide for any engine swap for the RB engines, if you find one props to you. Thanks.

Yeah buddy proper posting and all aside not sure what your expecting here? We know nothing about your car.... Also from your other post sounds like you don't know much as well. Is it fuel injected or carbed? If your injected you have a temp sensor that makes the car run rich when its cold, if this stopped working you car might be full rich all the time. Again I have never had this problem this was just a quick search, so give us alot more to work with here or search... Pictures are also worth a ton! Thanks

Yeah thats okay with me more room for a cage and more trunk space. Oh totally I have been going through my manual nightly, I have a rebuilt steering rack for a forester with celica tie rods coming this week. I should be ordering the truck brake pistons some time next week. I hope to be ordering a crate engine from summit here in the next few months, I will just pick up a T5 from a junk yard and buy a rebuild kit. I am still working out what im doing on suspension, I might just get some coil overs and an aluminum mustache bar. Depending on how much roll there is will determine the roll cage I will be using. Oh very useful thank you, I will just rebuild on from a junk yard and if I blow it up then I have a solution thank you sir. As always thanks for all your help guys.

Ohhh really? Thats good to know, the red light only comes on in reverse... I have some really weird wiring going on to make this car legal to drive for a while, the stop light are currently routed through the emergency flashers with a solid wire between the flasher deal to make it solid. I'm going to deal with really digging into the wiring when I do the V8 swap, I am just going to route everything to a central dash with 20 switches on it. I'm going to run out with a voltmeter while the car is running so see if its charging off the alternator, I might just be running power to a bad place on the gauge causing it to not work. I will keep you posted. Yep looks good I am charging at idle without any lights on, headlight are pulling -.01 volts every 5 seconds from the battery. Just checked my links, looks like im pushing 13.66 volts to the harness... I think I might have one to many hot wires linked up but overall the car runs great. I currently have an issue with my stop fuse getting to about 120 degrees, its only with the head lights on; with the brake pedal depressed and hazards flashing (Routed through the blinker thing) same temp. I have a feeling I have a side marker light touching the body somewhere, so I have headlights if I really really need them but i run the risk of melting something. Over all im just happy right now I can drive it around, I also just got the mirrors install... I think they are going to take some time to get use too but I think they look really cool! Thanks again everyone for the help.

Engine temp works too woot woot. Think I might have broke the voltage gauge out the battery is just really low right now, it red....

And I owe a special thanks to everyone! Rear tail lights work when headlights are on if I run power from a spare hot wire directly to the two wires. No change when you step on the break though but I think that should be an easy fix later. I also have blinkers, rpm gauge, and oil pressure. Not sure about temp gauge yet but PROGRESS!!!! Thanks all!

Yeah hey if I have plates its all good.... Yeah I think thats the issue right now with the blinkers. I have pulled the whole thing apart really its a single hot wire in the middle with 2 contacts on each side, the issue I see is when one side is activated I only get like 1.2 volts. Ive cleaned both end but still no good. Im going to pick up a switch and create my own, what a funny design for a switch. I grabbed a hot wire and touch each side, with the blinker engaged it lights up the back but not flash. I have a feeling this is due to the battery only having 6.5 volts right now, I have a feeling the blinker relay thing acts as a bucket and dumps power after it reaches a point correct? Anyways my wife is picking up a charger right now so I will know soon enough thanks guys

Sooo looking at the correct diagram... I think the blinkers get power from the hazard switch! soo I pulled mine and what do you know it looks burned on the car connector. However if you look at the switch end of the connector i see not burn marks. Thus makes me think someone stuck something in this connector.... Pulled the tape away looks like the wire was spliced into with a yellow wire remaining. however it burned really bad! I have also found yellow wire residue next to the main connector block by the fuse box.. WTF was this last guy doing?

Sorry didn't see your edit.. ROFL so my title says 78, my vin says 76 my door says 11/75... WTF

Sweet! I think its the switch... If i take the 3 pin connector and stick a pin in the first 2 slots and take a hot 12 volt wire and connect them I get a right turn signal! Progress!!! So i think it comes down to power is not being shared to all of combo switch sooo not sure where im going from here because all the wires are in place and soldered but progress! thanks to all everyone for the help thus far.

Huh I guess so! this looks right! http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/76_280z_wiring.gif Kinda sad not very colorful or easy to read..

Here you go. This is for the high beam switch Turn signal wire This goes to the wipers and headlight turn on Does this look like a 280z? It has no badges anywhere.

Yikes just pulled the vin up... I guess this is a 76 not a 78? Guess my title is wrong?

Yikes I have been tracing wire and such and just now realized my combo switch is the same in the diagram..... I don't have a 6 pin connector it's an old 3 pin connector, I need to remove the dash again and trace out where the blinker relay is really going. Could this not be a 1978 280z and something else? Or did they have multiple type of connectors in the same car?? Mine looks like I think it should look like: Man was the PO swapping things around?? Should I just trace all my own wires and buy like 40 switches and create my own at this point??

Hey thanks SeattleJeseter, Im heading to the store now to pick up pushpins and multiple alligator clips thanks for all your help and support.