clutchdust

Not totally taco'ed, but enough to screw my pooch. I've been so sick about it I haven't even wanted to look at it for the last three months. I just started pulling things apart to see how bad things really are. I started a new job back in December and on my very first day I was running some errands after work. I was waiting to cross a street when this lady gets on the shoulder to turn on the access road where I was coming out. Just as I decided to pull out she changed her mind and pulled back into the travel lane and smacked me hard on the driver front wheel. It was a straight on shot. Literally broke the strut (brand new KYB installed two months earlier) and tweeked the subframe/sheetmetal. Of course, the fender is toast. Also tweeked the front bumper, which is disappointing since it was pretty much cherry before all this nonsense. I just got the fender off yesterday to see what it looked like underneath. There is a slight buckle in the framerail just about where the rear strut rod pick up is and another slight buckle right at the firewall. I'm not looking forward to what it's going to take to pull all this out, but I don't think it's bad enough to write off the car. I'll post up pics later.

So I think I've decided to go with the one on the left (e12-80?). I have a bunch of modules and bits and pieces I don't even know what they go to. Does this distributor use a separate module? Or is this (+) to one side and (-) to the other side and done? Also, what is the distributor on the right? What parts (if any) does it need to work? I will be listing that one on my F/S thread.

Not really. Sounds exactly like what I was asking. Just this once, pretend I don't know jack about Datsun distributors and walk me through which one I should use and what parts are needed.

Do you by chance have a link to that thread? I'm still really new to the different ignitions Datsun/Nissan used. In my '72, I just yanked the points and put in a Pertronix and haven't looked back. I know either one of these distributors are pretty much the same thing as the Pertronix unit but I have no knowledge to guide me.

Want some 15s for my S30 track car. Cosmetic condition irrelevant, just so long as they're straight. This is on the cheap so don't bother with nice, aftermarkets. PM me with what you have.

^This^

So here are the two dizzies I have. Which one would be better? Street driving is really not all that big a concern, this is for my track car.

Please tell me more about the GM ignition, or point me to a thread. I would be interested in that since GM has built literally millions of vehicles that use it so parts should be cheap and available for another lifetime or two. I think just for clarity I will pull both of them out today and post a pic.

Sorry if this is a dupe, guys. I am trying to put together a carbureted L28 I have two different distributors and no idea how to identify which is which. I can tell you they're both magnetic to some degree, i.e. no points. I saw a thread about one of them, it appears to be a pretty popular choice. It has a plastic black box mounted at about the 11 o'clock position with a two pin connector. The other is similar but does not have any box or anything else mounted on the side. It has two magnets mounted opposite each other inside the housing. There are blue wires that come off the magnets, go through an insulator on the base of the distributor, then two of the wires are spliced and the remaining three wires are braided. The only other thing I can tell you is that both engines were FI at one point. I hope that's enough info to make an identification. I can't really upload any pics right now but if we can't figure this out, then I'll find some pics somewhere. Anyway, if we can determine which is which, what distributor would be best for my carbureted engine?

Maybe not such a bad plan. I think driving a prius gets you a complementary blowjob from the nearest treehugger upon arrival.

Holy crap, man! Are you sure the school is worth it? I mean seriously, this is not too far from "papers please!" If you just insist on going to KA, would it be an option to leave the car with family/friends for the year or so you'll be there? Just buy some $1000 beater car for the time being and then when you're done, sell it to some other student. That's what we did in Okinawa.

If I had a good body but needed a drivetrain, I would be looking for a modern v-6 (Nissan or otherwise). Aluminum block for lighter weight, set further back for better balance, and a 6-speed tranny. But I'm not in that position, well, sort of, but I digress.

Yup. E31 head and block. Pulled the head off, I was going to buy it but they wanted a buck five for it and no warranty it wasn't cracked.

Ahhh, now that's a different story. Going to school out there would be completely different than being there on orders. Question: Will you be paying tuition as an out-of-state student? My understanding (and this is very vague) is that you need to live there for at least 6 months to a year to qualify for in-state tuition. If you're attending as an out of state student then I would think you should be exempt from registering the car. I'm not the government but in my world, they can't have it both ways. I don't see how they can demand that you register there but not grant you in state tuition. Out-of-state tuition, out of state plates. In state, then you need to do as the Romans do.

Yeah, all these emblems were loose. I don't know where the 510 emblems mount. Think I'm going to do a board in the garage wall with all the various badges. Add in some Corvette, T/A and maybe even a Rustang badge (if I can stand it).