Yes, I have had mine up and running for a few weeks now and it works great! I used one magnet and then put in a second because of the surging problem as well. If anyone needs pictures and dip switch setting info for their 280ZX installation, just ask. I plan on doing a write-up and posting it but time is a problem. I mounted my unit on the bracket that used to hold the trouble light or idiot light. It was a perfect fit with the cable running up and over the strut tower (with two clamps) and then along the firewall. The same hardware that held the old CC in place can be used. It was a real clean installation with the throttle cable being just the right length as though it was made for this particular installation. I tried the speedometer VSS as well and it will not work, wires are still in place. The magnet cruise control can be installed from within the car by removing the center counsel and shifter boot. You have to bend the bracket into a “Z†shape and bolt it in. The wires run under the boot and center counsel through the passenger compartment and out at the same location where you bring the wires in from the engine compartment. In regards to the switch I used 250-3592 dash switch, and hooked up all the wires (not all are required for it to work). At night when the lights are on the switch have two green lights that light-up in the center. As a side note I had the opportunity to switch between the magnet VSS and the Speedometer VSS for two weeks. The speedometer VSS just is not compatible with the 250-1223 unit and will not work. I am a happy camper after many hours of trouble shooting and experimenting with different VSS’s. You have to wait just a few moments when first turning the CC on before setting the speed. The CC needs time to get a sample speed before it can function correctly. In 5th gear it pulls and coast without shutting off on the hills around here. I have had it set as high as 90 MPH (I have a 130 MPH Speedometer) so there seems to be no problem between 85 and 130 Speedometers. I also ran all wires through a (already there) rubber boot just below the battery where an engine harness goes through the firewall. I just cut a small slice in the side of the boot. It is a good idea to tap or wrap (electrical tap) the CC wire harness in a nice and clean way its entire length before installing the wires through the boot. There is a wire issue with the 250-3592 that I will discuss in depth when I post the install notes later. You have to purchase a special switch at radio shack and make a modification because the 25-3592 is not entirely compatible with the 250-1223. The switch mounts very nicely right where the old ON/OFF switch was with a little fabrication. That’s pretty much it in a nut shell. If you have any question, just post them.