Warren

HA, I actually (and I hate to admit it), slept in my van with the car on a trailer...that was the first night I owned it, before I even got it home, way back when it was still a rusted out POS. It stays locked inside my garage now and NEVER leaves my sight when it's not in the garage. Ask BradMan-Q45...on the way back from SEZ last September, we stopped at DQ to get a bite to eat. I had to sit by the window just to keep an eye on it. But I'm not paranoid...hahaha

OK OK, enuf guessing...I'll spill the beans tomorrow...Maybe! Process and product names and all. BTW, thanks for the kind words. Warren

Like "Candy Apple Red" was a stock production color for a Z, Doc? It's still a ratchet shifted GM 2004R behind an L29.6ET on SDS running a GT35 Blowzilla with 3" stainless exhaust and has Ford taillights...so it's still "semi-hybrid". Just has some nicer looking parts on it, another part of the whole package. Hopefully I'll have a trailer for SEZ this time and won't have to baby it down the track so I can find out what it'll really do and know that I can still get it back home.

A couple of sneak peeks at my powdercoated GM 2004R transmission before it goes under the car, never to be seen again (with any luck)... Yes, It's upside down, and yes it's still apart, but not for long. Warren

Almost any muffler you could need...and the prices are good and shipping is FAST. http://www.justmagnaflow.com Hope it helps, Warren

Doesn't the Official HybridZ Frapper show who's where and who's really interested in being contacted? It's already a sticky. How much more do we really need? http://www.frappr.com/hybridz

Seems like it would break down the Community...leave it the way it is and stop rocking the boat.

Here is the breakdown of what the numbers/letters mean. You guys with ZX's that have a "Y" at the end, don't even ask what it stands for, as nobody seems to know. Remember, this is the "MODEL" number, not the VIN. The number breakdown below refers to the number on the plate behind the battery, NOT the one on the dash, stamped into the firewall or b-pillar. Here is some info straight from the FSM that should help solve the mystery without opening the diff to read the numbers stamped on the ring gear. Notice the bottom right corner..."J" represents a GL model. I'm really kinda shocked that nobody uses the "basic" information thats so readily available in the FSM. If you don't have one, GET ONE!

Might add a little more to these prices, since they don't include a torque converter, which can run up to and over $500, but here's a couple of proven "bullet-proof" combinations that have been tested and actually DO hold up. Built CK 2004R's. I've done ALOT of research lately. Warren

In true "Stock" form, not a chance with 450 hp/tq. 350 hp/tq, maybe but with about $1200 more in hardened and billet internal parts it will take up to about twice that much. Ask Scottie-GNZ about "stock" internals. Here is a link to some "competition" parts. CK Performance

Man, I just posted the chart 10 posts down. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=118665

85 is a ground for the relay itself, connect a wire from 85 to ground (the body) Terminal 87A is "normally closed"; the circuit opens when power is applied to the relay coil--this is used for ignition cut-outs and that sort of thing... 87A can be left open, with no connection...it's NOT necessary to use it.

Just for the record, with the hopes of clarifying what came with what, consult the diagram below. Hope it helps, Warren

Believe it or not, a belt sander and a dremel tool...sanding it with a belt sander makes it easy to get flat surfaces. The dremel tool comes in handy between the runners where the belt sander can't get.

Clean it real well, any place that is to be welded should be ground clean and bolt holes that you plan on filling should be drilled until you get to clean fresh material. It welds very well, but requires ALOT of heat, i.e. stay away from the flanged areas unless you plan on machining them flat again. Don't forget to Jet Hot coat it once you're done. It'll look AMAZING. After welding, Sanding, Polishing & Before Jet Hot Coating After Jet Hot Coating

Sorry about that...had them listed wrong in the diagram. It's fixed now. The starter lead isn't fused at all...it goes from the top part of the distribution block (on the side) directly to the starter...unfused, just like normal. Also, fuse sizes can vary depending on how your car is equipped. Sorry for the confusion.

Phil, Is the seller your beer drinkin buddy? If he is, you need to slow him down on the throwin them back. I have 2 parts cars that look better than that thing.

It's been brought to my attention and I've gotten a question that I think might be easily answered by this. The ZX fusible link box has basically 5 fusible link outputs. The question is how do you use 4 MAXIfuses for 5 circuits? The diagram and notes below should explain.

All fixed now. Thanks Whomever!

Green is where the Lifting Eye goes for removing the engine (on later models), so YES, you may lift from there. On the earlier models, I believe all that was there was a fuel rail stanchion. Orange is where the mechanical fuel pump attaches (on non-fuel injected models). The plate itself is not used on later models with power steering, as the power steering pump mounting bracket takes it's place.