teknomage
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Posts posted by teknomage
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I have been going through the drive train of my turbo diesel 1977 280z 2+2 getting the clunks out. I have rebuilt the half shafts, and I am now stuck at the driveline. The rear U joint is worn and loose and while I already have it out I would like to replace that one or both of the U joints in the driveline.
However the parts houses have provided me the wrong U joints and further research has indicated that this 77 uses a stacked U joint that is difficult to replace?
It may be possible to get a specialty driveline shop to change out the stacked U joint (I got a quote of $90 per u joint locally)?
Is there a older stock 2+2 driveline with the replaceable U joints? would it bolt in?
Has anyone been able to source these stacked U joints to do their own replacements?
Also dose any one out there have a spare R200 differential with 3.36 gears?
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I have been saving up about 2 gallons of filtered bacon oil, gonna fill my Z up with it just before going in for an emissions test at about 10:30-11 am just before lunch break. The looks on faces should be worth the $15 even if I do not pass...
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the LD28 fuel injection pump has a coil next to the pulley to pick up RPM, it is a hall effect kind of thing where the inductors reluctance is varied by the aluminum pulley passing by with and without holes in it. I theorize that if we place magnets in the holes we can get a positive signal for the tach similar to the coil pulses it is designed for.
Does any one know what kind of signal pulses the tach is designed to accept?
I would like to avoid frying my tach if I can.
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Well I got it all cleaned up yesterday, took the whole day but got it.
When I finally got past it and took a good look at the mess I found it was not all that bad.
Everything kinda blatted into the rear passenger corner, when the bottom jumped off the can (I am just glad it was not aimed at the dash). I was also lucky in that I had a thick blanket laying over thewhole rear deck and carpet with the back seat down for my mastiff, kept it out of the carpet, that blanket is now a shop throw now...
Does anyone know if the window out of a 76 2+2 will fit a 77 2+2?
Interestingly when in the door to clean up the glass bits, I found I have a power lock kit installed that is part of the car alarm, so the included key fobs can lock and unlock the doors. I think I will be checing out enabeling them
I tried 409, green, orange, no go....
I tried alcohol, mineral spirits they kinda worked but SLOW......
Ended up using up a tall can of engine degreaser, and a pile of shop towels, applied with vigorous elbow grease.
After the goop was lifted I went back with 409 to lift the thin oil the engine degreaser leaves behind.
To clean the rear I removed the hatch, making everything easier to reach.
While I had the hatch out I carefully removed the old bubbled, dry, cracked window tint and re-tinted.
Still stinks in the car, so I will be doing weekly cleanings for a while with armor all and a fresh pine tree hanging on the mirror.....
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Yesterday about 2 in the afternoon, from my shady back yard I heard a KABOOOM! I jokingly said to my buddy that one of the tires on his truck just blew up. He, was like ah hell no racing up the hill to investigate.
Well joke was on me, I had thrown in a can of fix a flat. It was laying on the carpet under the rear hatch that happened to be south facing where I was parked. Apparently the high plains desert sun striking that can excited the molecules to the point the container could no longer contain their excitement and the molecules rapidly escaped as the crimped bottom failed. The body of the can rapidly accelerated in the opposite direction and went right through my drivers side window. As fix a flat expanded all over the inside of my car forming a sticky / stinky layer of uggh.
Any good ideas for cleaning and lifting fix a flat without damaging the interior?
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This thread reminds me of my neighbor who pissed off some unknown person who poured blended liquefied catfish down the fresh air intake grill at the top of the hood of his truck, mid summer.
I asked him to park it on the other side of his property so I would quit hearing about it from my girlfriend.....
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3.36 R200 for my 77 280Z wanted, any one out there have one available??
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Efficiency log for: Z - 1977 Datsun 280Z 2+2 custom
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Lifetime Fuel Economy: 38.37
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90-day Fuel Economy: 38.37
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(I added vortex generators tooday) 3-tank Fuel Economy: 43.06
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EPA Rating (% over): 22 (74.4091%)
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Total fills: 29
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Average cost per gallon: $1.12
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Average cost per fill: $3.49
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Average cost per mile: $0.03
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Total gallons used: 90.6
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Total miles traveled: 3476.7
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Total cost: $101.47
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Total saved: 67.43 gallons
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Total saved: $75.52
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Average tank distance: 119.89
I am very happy with my LD28TI
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Lifetime Fuel Economy: 38.37
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My 280Z 2+2 2.8 LDTI with a MSA II body kit and vortex generators (added today) averaged 43.06 MPG today in a 250 mile loop. In fact look at my long term numbers since putting this Z together.
Pay particular attention to the cost per mile
All the fuel log entries without fuel cost were free Veggi Oil top offs.
Efficiency log for: Z - 1977 Datsun 280Z 2+2 custom
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Lifetime Fuel Economy: 38.37
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90-day Fuel Economy: 38.37
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3-tank Fuel Economy: 43.06
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EPA Rating (% over): 22 (74.4091%)
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Total fills: 29
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Average cost per gallon: $1.12
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Average cost per fill: $3.49
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Average cost per mile: $0.03
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Total gallons used: 90.6
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Total miles traveled: 3476.7
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Total cost: $101.47
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Total saved: 67.43 gallons
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Total saved: $75.52
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Average tank distance: 119.89
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Lifetime Fuel Economy: 38.37
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Yah, there's some LOOOOOONG messages that need atleast parts of it made available to everyone
All we need is a sub forum to 'Other engines'
I am hoping we can get a Forum just like V8 Z's have I asked via the contact button for HybridZ no reply yet.
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(note: I added vortex generators today on the leading edge of the hood and roof, and along rear quarter windows. They added about 4.6 MPG and have reduced fumes in the car, except when windows down. Look at the average jump from 90 day to last 3 fills since adding the VG's.)
Efficiency log for: Z - 1977 Datsun 280Z 2+2 custom
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Lifetime Fuel Economy: 38.37
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90-day Fuel Economy: 38.37
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3-tank Fuel Economy: 43.06
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EPA Rating (% over): 22 (74.4091%)
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Total fills: 29
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Average cost per gallon: $1.12
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Average cost per fill: $3.49
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Average cost per mile: $0.03
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Total gallons used: 90.6
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Total miles traveled: 3476.7
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Total cost: $101.47
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Total saved: 67.43 gallons
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Total saved: $75.52
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Average tank distance: 119.89
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Lifetime Fuel Economy: 38.37
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I added a dead on rear view I found this morning.
Yea, I live on top of a hill in the escalante valley which is the esophegous for the tri state area, this valley runs 300+ miles north to south and balences the northwest and southwest jet stream weather fronts. We get hilatious winds anytime there is a High/Low pressure differential from one end of these states to another. See http://www.milfordwind.com/milford/
These pics were taken about 2 winters ago, wind out of the north head on to the front of my Z at the top of the hill, with fine fluffy snow that filled in all the eddys. I quickly got my camera out after discovering this in the morning out on my puppy walk
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I just thought I would share my 1976 280z 2+2 Wind Tunnel Testing I completed recently, I figured it would be great food for thought for our resident aerodynamics specialist to comment on, as well as everyone to benefit from.
Best of all this testing was done for free overnight while I slept and yielded the optimum aerodynamic profile for a S30.
Here you go:
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Just wanted to share my 38 MPG daily driver that burns free fuel, holds its own in traffic and thrills me every time I stick my toes out the tailpipe.
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Yep mine is a daily driver, and getting me 38 MPG on free fuel while holding its own in traffic and being quite fun to stick my toes out the tailpipe.
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I agree with NavyCuda, I did substantial research before getting everyting together for this project, and I after much deliberation, I fell for the looks of the classic over technical superiority of the ZX. Besides the ZX 2+2 is just toooo ugly. If I went ZX I would get the 2 seater, but I need the 4 seater for:
cheaper insurance (part of the total cost of ownership)
taking kiddies to the movies
and more lounge space with the seat down for my mastiff
What about the difference in chasis weight what would a zx 2+2 weigh in at?
I like the classic for its:
instrument cluster
seats
body lines
lightness (my diesel z 2+2 comes in at 2700# empty)
Low crossectional area
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I was dismayed at the fuel pump the other day to find out that the fuel tank capacity of a 1977 280z was reduced to just 15 gallons, makes me wish I would have stuffed everything into my 1976 280z with its 17.5 gallon tank, and a filler neck that would fit the larger diesel fuel pump nozzles. Currently I have to stand and hold the fuel pump nozzle against the antisiphone, unleaded restrictor in the fuel tank neck. I cannot just set and forget.
But the 77 had a better body and interior. I still do not comprehend why they had to reingineer everything in the 77 and raise the hatch deck, less cargo, fake spare, less fuel capacity..... The 76 has a nice low hatch deck for more cargo, a full size spare, and holds 2.5 additional gallons, which to me means an additional 100 miles of range.
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I will be adding relays into my wiring harness to get the proper voltage to the headlight harnesses, somthing every Z needs anyways. Then I will have my 3x brighter headlights with 1/2 the power draw, less power draw = less parasitic hp draw for accessories = better fuel mileage
I consider this Z my grand touring sedan, as to date the best mileage I have logged was 56 MPG! and I am averaging near 40 MPG, giving me over 600 miles on one tank. Not to mention in the summer my fuel is free!
Yea I am glad I finally broke down to afford a set of the headlight bucket lense covers, improved aerodynamics and improved look IMHO.
I do have extensive pictures of the swapp. I contacted hybridZ last night to request a new forum be created the "Diesel Z Forum" that we could populate with threads pertinent to what I have done and what others will be doing. I am a bit of a newbie here so if anyone knows how to get a "Diesel Z Forum" set up I have a log of private message discussions that this project started we would like to move into the forum to popluate it, as well as thier are some existing threads, namely the one I first posted in, that should be moved into this forum.
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I would be interested in one possiably two, but I am going to vote for a flange so I can bolt my holeset He351VE.
Actually a T3/T4 flange would be awsome, I can alwayse make up my own adapter, and or since these will not be cast iron I could weld on my holeset flange.
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I actually just added headlight covers last week, since I have logged my best fuel mileage yet 56 mpg at highway speeds, (...due to a 30+ mph tail wind
...) Underneath the bucket covers I also added H4 headlight lenses with HID bulbs and ballasts (I need to fix the wiring harness to light them off though, not getting enough voltage to trigger the ballasts)
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So I added a pyrometer in the turbo manifold on the #6 exhaust valve port. I am seeing the following EGT's idle 200-300F cruise 450-550F climb 750-950F these are well below the max for diesel egt of 1300F.
The biggest limitation I am seeing is under high speed full throttle, I have observed a coolant temperature spike. I think this is due to all the heat being dumped into the coolant around the pocket combustion chambers.
I hit the governor at 115 mph which I think is 4500 rpm or so.
The forced induction of the turbo has reduced smoking and soot in the exhaust, especially when climbing a hill in 5th. Which would indicate more complete combustion of the light oil.
I am averaging a solid 40 miles per gallon city/highway on 70-100% Vegitable Oil
To my dismay when Datsun came out with the raised trunk they reduced the fuel tank capacity from 17.5 to 15 gallons, that cost me about 120 miles of range. Longest trip on one tank so far 630 miles.
When I finally ran the tank dry, I dumped in a quart of rotella engine oil to get a couple more miles to the fuel pump. Smelled funny but ran well on engine oil
In 77 why the heck did they re-engineer the trunk like that?
My 76 fit a full size spare, has a 17.5 gallon tank, and more cargo space! Seems like they had it right the first time...
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"The Di 3.0 or 2.7 that was in that same model in 99/2000 and 2005 would work for me"
Tony D same model of what?
would the 3.0 or 2.7 DI bolt onto the Z's engine mounts and bellhousing?
What is the model name for these DI engines?
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the nice photo blue72 pulled up for us on the LD28T to my trained eye appears to be a marine LD28 (which would have 3 compression rings (slow)) as the intake assembly has no provision near the entrance for EGR. This is not a stock LD28T but a LD28 Turbocharged, The down pipe on the turbo is very stock 280zx ish as is the manifold, but the heat shields on the turbo are new to my view. Clearly the PCV vented directly into the pressurized intake is not a foo bar that a great engineer like datsun would make, so I would have to chock this up to being non stock.
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I have heard many say that "The LD28T is available in Europe, as well as through marine and industrial outlets. They were in Forklifts, etc."
But in all my thorough research I have not turned up any such documentation, just heard everyone stating it. I do know the LD28 came out in a marine derivative but that is all I have ever seen documented. Never turbo charged and never in a forklift, I am not saying this is not true or possible I just have never turned up the empherical evidence of such. Please share if you have it, especially the specs of a factory turbo charged LD28 including the max boost, and any alterations that were made to the base engine to do such.
which flows exhaust more easily a higher A/R like .065 or a smaller one like the .45?
Not sure what all these turbo specs mean is there a clif notes guide online to understanding turbo specs?
The N/A fuel pump has an aneroid (evacuated brass billows) as an altitude compensating emissions feature, I am not certian but I belive this mechanism is identical to if not the same as the aneroid used by bosch on thier turbocharged fuel pumps, only one has a hose barb and the other a filtered port to atmosphere. Either way thire function is the same sense pressure density and actuate a fuel delivery cam porportional to the elongation or de-elongation of the brass billows. More air pressure compresses and de-elongates the billows pulling the fuel delivery cam open, akin to driving your LD28 below sea level, say the marinarias trench below....
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280z (datsun / nissan) non replaceable ujoint replacement where to go to fix for just $103 in 30 minuets
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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280z (datsun / nissan) non replaceable ujoint replacement where to go to fix for just $103 in 30 minuets
I recently had the need to service the U joints (all 6) in the drive train of my 77 Z. After the parts houses had sold me the wrong U Joints for the driveline several times, and online research I learned about the NON REPLACEABLE U JOINTS used. Research indicated 2 resolutions, replace with an older pre 75 driveline with replaceable U joints or have a driveline built. Locating a pre 75 drivline for a 2+2 proved difficult.
I called several driveline shops who said they could not replace them, all except one. When I called Driveline Service of Portland and spoke to Joe Delk at 503 289 2264. I was in disbelief when he said he could get them changed out, so I questioned and queried him, emailed pics and finally took in my driveline. 30 minuets later I had both U joints replaced for a mere $103 with a pair of Rockford 430-10 U joints.
Rockford apparently came out with the 430-10 U joint about 2005 thankfully.
Thank you Joe for the very good news for all our Z cars....