Meph
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Posts posted by Meph
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Thanks for the great input here.
(this reply got long sorry)
Im not aiming for max performance at the track, just looking for a little more front grip. No race compound tires some Firestone indyhawk tires.
When I checked my tire temps after runs at my last event the outside tire temp was about 4 deg C hotter than the inside. So I'm guessing (maybe wrongly) that I'm not all that far off camber.
I would hope by moving the lca up and out slightly I'd get some static camber and because the lca won't go beyond parallel in a turn I will gain/prevent losing camber like my current setup.
Im running adjustable t/c rods for as much caster as I can fit in the wheel well. Though I Havn't checked the actual number (I will when I get some time and knowledge how) that should also help with camber
Here's my setup currently
Spring rate 155F - 155R
Sway bar 1 1/8 F - 7/8 R
Camber 1.1 deg F - 1.75 R
T3 t/c rods
Toe 1/32 out F - 1/16 in R
Rear LSD
255/40r17 F 275/40r17 R
17x9.5 -12 F and R
Shocks are not adjustable and just basic mr2 F/toicko blue R
I know my springs are soft and my bars are stiff (came with the car but makes for a pretty smooth highway car). Looking to go down a size to 1 front 5/8 rear. And upping springs to 180 ish.
Good to know about the strut tops having a larger hole, I have a lathe at home so turning a spacer is not a problem. What about ride quality VS the rubber? I daily drive my car most days to work in the spring to fall so racing is a small portion or its life. I would think that switching to plates on the front only could cause a little imbalance?
Only in the last few months have in started looking suspension geometry beyond toe... Gets confusing sometimes!
Thanks everyone
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The car is running a 4.8L lsx with custom mounts that don't attach to the sub frame. I also have a hoist setup so dropping the front cross is a pretty straight forward job.
Im running poly bushings already with a home brew coilover setup with mr2 SW20 struts.
They have a slightly larger nut size on top than the 240z struts so I'm worried strut tops won't accept them.
As for tires I'm running 255/40/17 front with 17x9.5 and 275/40 rear with the same Rim.
You don't still have your old bushings by any chance? If so would you be interested in selling them?
Thanks for the input
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Hey guys, I'm trying to get another 1 deg of front camber.
Car is currently lowered with roll center spacers. I've slotted the strut tower and currently have about 0.9-1 deg neg, looking for 1.5 to 2 total when autocrossing.
My options are
-Relocating the LCA holes in the crossmember up and over. Hopefully help with bumpsteer geometrily and gain some camber.
-LCA offset bushings. Giving me adjustability to move the LCA out or up or a combination of both without having to redrill the crossmember.
-Physically making the LCA longer by cutting, lengthing and welding.
Does anyone have any specific pros or cons. Looking for input on bumpsteer changes. I'm leaning towards option 1 or 2.
For option 1 I think I'd move the hole up about 3/4" and out 1/4". Does anyone know if this would be excessive or a bad idea?
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Hey guys,
I've swapped a C6 oil pan onto my LSX swap, I use to have a modified truck pan but wanted more ground clearance.
I got the correct pickup and windage tray from the seller, but no dipstick, on my OEM stick the oil level reads about an inch past the full mark of the stock dipstick. Ive put exactly 5.5 Quarts into the pan.
Is this reading normal with the incorrect dipstick and tube? Id assumed the oil level would be constant to the block regardless of what pans installed. If I can get a consistent reading I was hoping to simply mart the dipstick at the current level.
Thanks,
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I tried the clutch switch today, it didnt work as well as one would hope. The VSS signal takes a second or two to be processed and will cause a kick in power application to the wheels when its obtained. It will also cause the engine to idle too low sometimes, back to the drawing board.
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Thanks for the replies, I was sure it was something to do with an auto transmission ECU. My pedal swing is pretty short between Closed and WOT but its been driving pretty nice, no twitch. I do notice I have very little fuel cut/ coast down. It will almost cruise in 5th indefinitely at 1300 rpm if I let off the gas
Now as a temp. fix before the car get to the dyno for a tune I'm thinking of running a normally closed switch on the clutch pedal that will interrupt the VSS when I clutch in, in theory making the rpms drop to idle as if I were stopped, any thoughts on that one? (maybe even on the gas, vss = 0 when pedal = 0% but VSS will be dynamic when gas pedal is even slightly pressed)
Just an FYI its a 2004 4.8L (285 hp DBW edition)
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Hey Guys.
Ive got a 4.8L installed into my Z with a WC T5 trans, everythings going great, drive nice and runs well. Its an auto ECU and my vehicle speed signal is working.
The problem i'm having is if I take the car out of gear it till try to rev anywhere from 1200 to 1700 rpm until you come to a complete stop, then drops to 600 rpm. Seems like an Automatic transmission related issue.
Im not sure if Im missing something in the wiring will correct this (allow the revs to drop when you push in the clutch) or if its something to be corrected with HP tuners. I dont have hp tuners to check but had a tuner come to my house and remove Vats and ECU codes and do a little tuning with the car on jack stands.
I have a youtube series that covers the build if anyone wants to see it, videos start off kinda crappy and get better over time
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FodoN_njblM
If anyone has any input or ideas Id really appreciate it,
-Meph
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An impact gun with correct socket will probably do it, or break it. Gotta do what you gotta do.
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I'd run 215 front, 245 or 255 rear... 185 is just silly. I have 215's on an 8" and the fit is just right, 255's on a 10 would be a good match
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I've gotten 41 MPG with my 1JZ 240z, with an r154 and 3,54 diff.
This was the absolute max cruising the back roads on a 400 km stretch of a road trip.
I usually fill up around 34 MPG using it to drive to work, and got about 36-37 driving across the country this year.
(These are US mpg)
Running stock engine with a Holset Hy35, Haltech ECU and cruising AFR of about 16:1 and pretty advanced timing (30-40)
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Thanks JM, I disassembled the old rack and found the inners to be snugged as far down as possible but not tight, they were also the style of innter that is welded together, not the slip over style. I guess I will snug them to the spring so there us no play but they arnt too tight, and run them too see how they do.
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Hello guys. I picked up a new rack for my Z but it came disassembled in pieces. I've got it all ready to go but the fsm is vague on how to install the inner tie rods.
Are you to tighten the inners until the ball/cup washer combo touches the spring?
Do you tighten the assembly until the cup / ball compress the spring and just barely contact the rack itself?
Or is it somewhere in-between?
Thanks for any help!
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Picked up what I needed! Thanks z240!
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My front hub has seen better days. Where the race seats has worn and stretched significantly
If you have one from a parts car please let me know, email is preferred as I may not get a notification about PM's
g3a3_ar@hotmail.com
Will have to ship to Alberta Canada. T3L 3C2 is the postal code for shipping cost purposes. Can send funds Paypal or e-transfer. (Must be a 280z style hub)
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I got my 4 piston calipers on Amazon. No core charge and they were about 80 each.
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Mark it, and spin it say 10 times to see if the stiffness is the same spot always, and or same tooth engagement. Try and get some fame of reference to when its stiff. Ive never worked on a t5 but to me it would seem there could be a slight bend in the in a shaft causing the tolerance and backlash to change.
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195/70r14 ... If your tires size is in stock at walmart, chances are its not a performance size
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I tend to use the standard black soft silicone/rubber flexible tubing you find on just about every car in the junkyard, went there one day and stripped oodles off for future use. I have used clear and braided PVC, it can hold the boost but will collapse under vacuum. I've even got some radiator to overflow bottle tubing on my car, with no failures at 14 psi.
​My brake booster is indeed a fuel house, just because its handy and easy to get in that size.
1/4 inch does seem pretty big, if its like a 1/4 inch barb fitting, no reason fuel line wouldn't work, but its expensive (especially EFI). I bet you could easily get away with basic carb fuel line, or go online and order up some silicone line off ebay.
is the manifold tapped for 1/4? If it is just use a 1/8th barb fittings and 1/8th silicone rubber lines.
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r200, its probably a 3.545:1. Do you own a 280z? It was stock with the r200.
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This is a long shot, but if there's any out there (specifically the extended passange axle for vlsd enguagement) please pm me. Ill cover all shipping costs.
Thank you
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Just an fyi, my rear bearibg on one side was actually loose in the housing. Acted exactly like a worn bearing. I wrapped the bearing once with thin tape to take up the play.... working so far!
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Looking good. You need to clean out the old grease, and replace it with new stuff.
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did you find 1 gallon was enough, when its thinned to 2 gals?
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Hey guys, Ive decided to part ways with my OBX carrier. If anyone wants to pick it up, I've already installed the upgrade kit with washers and bolts. Looking to get $325 USD + shipping. Sorry if this is the wrong place to bring it up, I managed to mess up my diff (while out of the car) and just replacing it with a 3.54 that im not cracking open, no time as Im moving soon and the car will be driving 3500km
Front Camber - Bushings, LCA relocate or longer LCA
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
So I went ahead with plan A and relocated the LCA up and out in the cross member. 3/4" up and 6mm out. Drilled out washers, relocated and welded in. Then patched the existing holes. My front camber is now about 1.75 deg which is right where I was aiming for for my daily driven car.
Im going to look into strut tops for more camber and caster at events in the future. My front tires are as forward as I dare shove them with the t/c rods. (I still don't have a ton of caster right now)
Moving the LCA creates a lot of small changes.
- less theoretical bump steer, bringing it closer to parallel with the tie rod
- camber (6mm out creates about 0.75 deg change)
-reduces the roll moment. roll center is improved and body roll theoretically reduced (I also raised the front end a little to help with this)
-Wider front track. (only 12mm... Not much)
While I was down there I did a few things to help with friction.
-On the sway bar poly bushing I used a belt sander to eliminate any excess bushing material on the mounting surface that is normally pinched when you tighten the nuts, lots of moly lithium grease and thr bar move a lot easier
-on the LCA poly bushing I took the center steel tube and turned it down in diameter ever so slightly on my lathe and polished smooth, greased that bushing up good and it rotates with a lot less force than before.