DOHCD15

i though three of the cam towers where held down by headbolts, after crushing the gasket wont the seal be compromised?

while changing my head gasket i removed the camshaft by tapping the back of it with a rubber mallet while out of the car and i took the head to get shaved. when i got the head back i put it right on the block without installing the cam again and i tourqued down the gasket. no i can't for the life of me figure out how to reinstall the cam and rockers. i slid the cam back through the front and even though i lowered the two nuts to adjust the valve clearance i can't get it low enough to get the rockers back on the lash pad. do i need to remove the cam bearings with the cam in and install the rockers and lash pads the tighten it down form there???? and if so won't that ruin the seal on the gasket?

i had a 78 stock engine and tranny combo and then removed the engine for an f54 flat top with a fidanza flywheel, i chose to reuse the previously good clutch and pp with some issues lining up the old pp to the flywheel. upon start up there is a slight squealing noise coming from the bellhousing and when i depress the pedal the noise is gone. once warmed up the noise is constant with pedal depressed or not and have noticed rougher feel when engaging gears with reverse being a complete nightmare. i am leaning to the idea of the pressure plate being the culprit as it is the 225mm and i have recently been told the flywheel requires a 240mm. would that cause the squealing?

i just installed an autometer tach in a 1971 240z, i am using the factory tach harness and i now use the green and white stripped wire as my tach signal. if i try to start the car with the green wire connected to the negative side of my coil my car cranks and cranks with no fire and the moment i remove it the car fires right up. i can then attach the green wire back to the negative side of the coil and the tach works just fine. why won't the tach allow me to start the car but runs just fine when attached to the coil after the vehicle is on.

my 71 240z is using the 81-83 zx dizzy with the E12-92 module for about two months when all of a sudden i noticed a sudden loss in power after an engine swap. i removed the line for port vacuum attached to the dizzy and sucked on the hose, and no plunger activation. when the engine was idling i again removed the port vacuum line and sucked on the hose and heard no change in idle speed. help now im only limited to 15 or 16 degrees of timing and i want more. i have another 74-79 dizzy that i could take apart and maybe replace the dashpot with, or if i buy an msd 6al could i use the it to bump up the timing to about 33-34.

well i would assume $100 would be an aproximate amount to spend when looking for venturi's.

i would like to get some 34mm venturi's for my mikuni 40phh's. does anyone make these or do i have to bore my venturi's out, and if so how may i do it safely. i would just like to move the carbs power band upwards to match the camshaft

i have found my answer thank you

i have a 2 unknown 5 speeds given to me by a good friend and i have no way to identify which tranny is from a 280Z or 280ZX. what visual clues will lead me to their identification?

my 240Z still has the factory door locks on it but i do not have the key to lock the vehicle with but a buddy of mine had a worn out 240SX key and use it to lock and unlock my doors.the question, is there any way to have a locksmith remake a key to fit my locks or do i have to go out and buy a whole new lock and key set?