ben a

i think z car depot. i know several different places sell the same kit.

i did single instead of dual Joe i have two friends that have muffler shops and they have taken classes on LS exhaust building. 2.5" single is supposed to be good up to about 450 hp. and i am at 450hp right on the nose. they said the different pipe configurations like x and strait across mainly change sound. the classes they took showed very tiny differences in HP and torque and when the curve peaks. they said they have heard hundreds of opinions but based on the dyno which does not have opinions you can get the same results with most any config as long as you go with the 2.5 diameter pipe. i used the Dirty dingo engine mounts and a strong home made trans mount so there is almost no engine movement so no need for any type of flex pipe. i did not use cats i put my O2s about 12" downstream from collectors. i made my own hangers. sounds very much like a stock everyday car until you jump on it which makes it even more of a sleeper.

winter in ohio helps.

She comes up with some good ideas like filling the open area under the front bumper that I dont like either. The bumper got tucked in but I did not notice that it needed reshaped down in the middle. i used a heavy stainless mesh to fill the area under the bumper and she wanted all that pretty stainless painted matte black. the headlights got two coats of the same candy that was used on the car. The old school wheels were just going to be temporary but those Coopers made them look pretty tight. we got 435 hp at the rear wheels a t56 and upgraded drive shaft with big universals. I had to add some steel rope in with the diff strap with the bigger universals we had less room for the diff to lift up. She almost never drives anywhere near hard enough to need that much power.

thanks

good morning all. I only have a few steps left to complete my wifes 240z windshield, tires, exhaust, and some wiring. i have done and tested gauges, fuel pump and impact safety switch and gone trough all 240z electrical systems lights, ignition, and whatever. I made a clutch safety switch so that the wife wont be able to start the car without pushing in the clutch LOL. i am having trouble finding wiring diagrams for 2004 gto with t56 the engine came with a pin out sheet and the company i bought it from deleted the normal stuff from the computer for me when i bought the engine. the info i have shows just enough to get me in trouble and it seams to be for a gto with auto trans. what i would like is to be able to make all necessary connections with fuses where needed but everything i have found on the net so far does not jive with what i have. i dont want to buy an aftermarket harness when all i need is already there. any help would be great.

i can not find a relay on any print that has three blue wires. then there is this little thing with two green wires dont have it on any print either. there is another that is under the radio looks like factory install. the relay in engine bay might be auto trans saftey switch related. none of my wire colors are matching any year print. it is a 1973 240z.

i see thanks

I dont understand how would they come on if not grounded? but then there is still a lot i dont see since i have no wiring diagram.

yes all four points on the switch are hot when high beam is on so i would think that is your answer but i dont have head lamps hooked up yet.

i do know there is a separate fuse for each side and i can check on the both at the same time for you i have that switch opened in my shop. thats the only way i can check now since i have never found a 240z diagram that is any where near correct.

i have a 240z the door plate 10/72 manufacture date the title should be 1973 and it is. the problem i am having is the color of wires i have are not all the same as 1973 US 240z with standard trans. example on my temp and oil pressure gauge there is a yellow with black stripe. no print i have found yet for any year 240z matches all the wires in this car. anybody no of one that has yellow with black stripe to the oil and temp gauge?

that is something I would do for sure if it was not for the 2004 gto heads have a very small hole size. other year ls1 engine have a larger diameter hole. there is just too big of a difference. thanks for the idea anyways.

i think i have the oil pressure figured out now i am doing temp. For some reason my wife wants the original gauges she has everything inside the car original and new. I am working with a ls1 from a 2004 GTO it has two locations for temp senders and i will be trying to keep the sender that talks to the GTO computer and add one that matches ohms with the unit from the old 240z engine. i dont know how well this will work so i thought maybe someone on here might know. thanks