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JoeK

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JoeK last won the day on May 20 2017

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About JoeK

  • Rank
    Always Here
  • Birthday 02/17/1969

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Oakland, Ca
  • Interests
    Vintage Style, Vintage Trailers, Fine Woodworking, Random Odd Facts

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  1. I finished mine recently. I thought the hardest part was figuring out the wiring for the steering column combo switch. That the headlights are negative interior didn’t help things but I just reversed that and ran the power through the switch. Getting one of those laminated wiring diagrams for your year car will really help as well.
  2. Thanks for the tip. Here is a Rockauto link https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2001,mustang,4.6l+v8+dohc,1372643,electrical-switch+&+relay,back+up+lamp+switch,4240
  3. Anybody happen to have a fairly clean passenger side front fender, in the SF Bay Area?
  4. That Sikky part looks like it would fit if I put it on before the trans was in the car. Now it looks a really tight, but very tempting to try it. Of course, the next is option is as the man from Idaho says, a switch in the dashboard or center console. Ofcourse, the switch is crazy easier too, since at this time my wire to the reverse lights is inside the cabin.
  5. Is there a way to make the backup lights work? ‘71 240z with LS1 and T56 and JCI mount. The reverse sensor is too close to the tunnel for the plug to fit in it. Am I missing something?
  6. Mostly see electric power steering on Z’s
  7. Looking through my build thread here, it’s looks like I have added much of what I’ve been doing. Thought I’d toss up a pic of my exhaust. It’s dual 2.5” to a single 3” to a single Spintech muffler. Now that it’s running I’m pretty happy with how it sounds. Also did a wiper motor upgrade. And did some traveling in Europe with the family as well as some camping trips in the vintage trailer.
  8. Success. Or at least a ton better. I didn’t have anything on the vacuum port at the rear of the intake, below the MAP sensor. Was throwing code P0108 which is the MAP sensor circuit so I put my finger over that port and it smoothed out. https://youtu.be/-lIyYaD96pE I believe my egr cover is leaking a lot of air in, which is causing the big air noise in that area and likely the still rough idle. Increasing throttle is slow and stumbles a little still, which would also make sense if a leaking egr cover. But overall I’m pretty darn thrilled, and have some new motivation to get her on the road. Still a long way to go for that but the light is bright at the end of the tunnel.
  9. Thanks for the advice. I wish it were that simple. I did have it plumbed with the corvette filter/regulator originally but figured out what your talking about and reconfigured it. I am retaining the regulator in the fuel module and using a regular straight filter. I have a tee right before the filter and go back to the return line. This didn’t make much sense to me but I understand now that the regulator is actually on the return line on the module so anything over the 58psi blows through. I did order a fuel pressure gauge and should be able to put it in tomorrow, depending on when the Amazon truck shows up. Maybe putting the return loop after the filter would ensure I’m not losing any pressure to the filter.
  10. Got started, though it runs terribly. A couple weeks back I tried to start it but no go. No power to the fuel pump, which I traced to no power to the pcm, which turned out to be a blown fuse in the engine bay relay panel. Once I got power to the fuel pump, it still wouldn’t start, which turned out to be a bad fuel pump. Dropped the tank last night put the new fuel pump module in. Now it starts right up, but idles horribly and dies. Also has a noise that sounds like pulleys rubbing that I have yet to track down. Posted on ls1tech to see if I can get some direction there. Not sure where to start, but I ordered an OBD2 scanner, and some new plugs. The way it surges, it seems like it doesn’t have enough gas. https://youtu.be/z89RhxHcLBQ
  11. I’ve been trying to tie up the rest of the wiring around the car. Wondering that locations others have come up with for the main body/frame ground location. I want a good solid ground but don’t want to grind paint off and have it rust later. Like many things, I’m likely over thinking this.
  12. I used the JCI Kit, which I believe is not the same as you used. Still seems odd, but is is what it is. I haven’t done anything about it yet, working in other things, but I do have the old GTO shifter and plan to make that switch.
  13. I picked up the Harbor Freight metal bandsaw/chopsaw. With a 25% off coupon it was right around $200. After a couple hours of tuning it up, it is pretty much flawlessly square cuts every time. Or angles, since I did a complete pie cut exhaust using it.
  14. I expected the F-Body shifter would fit through the factory 240z hole, which was the main reason I converted to the f-body shifter. But it didn't. I had to cut the tunnel and have already butchered up my center console as well. The MGW short shifter I have currently installed only comes with one straight arm, and they don't make a jogged one. I don't have a stock f-body shifter either, though I know they can be had for cheap. I do have the the stock GTO shifter though, so as long I can switch out that offset lever in the trans with out having the take the trans out of the car, I think I''ll be golden. I put the f-body offset lever in there myself when i was rebuilding the trans, I just don't remember if had to slide back the trans tailpiece when I did it.
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