Indey

Just some AN fittings. Old picture of the car from the previous owner. Bucket seat from my old del Sol, that will temporarily work in the Z

Edlebrock Fuel Pressure Regulator.

Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Gauge Mounted on the Fuel Rail Got a good deal on a 82zx 5spd transmission, so I picked it up. and cleaned it some.

Can't enlarge pictures on current version firefox..

So I haven't updated this thread in a while...Regardless I have quite a few new items to share... My car is wonderful and I love it, however reliability had started to go down. It was just having all sorts of small little issues, and I'm the sort of "while I'm at it" type of person... I was running into cooling issues, fuel leaks, and just overall...not the best time. So I started purchasing parts to fix EVERYTHING! First step was a MSA coated header. After this I had a bit of spare time so I cleaned up some stuff that previous owners had ruined.. Like these turn signals with spray paint on them. Not perfect, but it'll do as a temporary thing. I also resprayed the turn signal bezels. Now...back to my original issues.... My injectors had been leaking from the hoses, I know this is a simple fix, however I also know this particular motor in my car is a swap (p90A non hydraulic head with a f54 block.) And quite simply... I don't trust other people's work... I know how I do things and I'd like to think that I do things...properly. Now as said I've had leaks in the fuel system, the stock fuel rail is bent a bit, all the hoses are old, and quite frankly...the stock set up is rather ugly. So I pulled up the EFI bible and started reading all about the fuel system trying to figure out what everything was. (Coming from newer cars this was actually a bit tricky for me) Regardless I made tons of sketches drawing up potential fuel set ups for the car, and finally settled on what I wanted and started ordering parts... My friend had a JSK Fuel Rail from when he had a EFI Z, so I picked that up off of him.. Cleaning out the threads.. All threads cleaned and reassembled. And to end out this post.... random pics of the car...

Yes sir, that helped significantly! I'm actually going to write that down for later reference. I've read one particular thread about that right now actually, and interestingly it said, since the line was kinked I got away with a bit of dumb luck. So I'll take the dumb luck that I can get for this exact second. Regardless Tony D also mentioned to not just cap the lines off, as you need some sort of recirculation as well....Though I'm slightly confused by this as it was stated here. As said I'm confused by this, as what would "cavitate the pump" mean?

So just to follow up on this... I took the car for a drive and it heats up till about the end of the M and then stays there on the gauge. As seen here. I feel that this is still significantly too high, since as said it used to easily run cooler. Regardless when I arrived home to check it, I found this.. It would appear as though something hit the radiator at some point.. I know the leak itself is not massive by any means, however I feel like it's blocked those veins. Which I would guess to be about...1/5 to 1/6th of the radiator. I also ran into very minor seeping under the aux. air regulator. Not only that but I noticed the coolant line that's supposed to go to the heater core, and then back into the block, that's looped, is pinched. I suppose it seems like it's time for a new radiator. As per the aux. air regulator section, I've looked through the EFI bible and my manual for the car and I can't seem to find what these lines are exactly for, I would assume they heat the aux. air regulator to let it know when to close the valve and not let air through? Can someone confirm that possibly? As per the looped line.. I'm going to get a longer line for now and just let the loop not pinch.. I tried to move the inlet since it's threaded, however it's on there quite good, does anyone possibly have some tips for rotating that guy to try and get it to aim towards the coolant lines at the front?

Temperature has not been confirmed at the radiator, however I currently have nothing to check that with, i'll run by my friends shop tomorrow and see what I can get figured out for that. I did make sure the new thermostat is opening and flowing coolant however, so that's good to go. The midway point on the gauge should be around 185 degrees, since the low spectrum is 120 and high is 250. To which I know the thermostat is a 180 degree one currently. (The old one was a 170 apparently). I know that on a 180 degree thermostat it shouldn't be fully open till around 190-ish or so, but the gauge just seems a bit high... regardless once I get the actual temp checked I'll know more along the lines of where it actually is. Thank you! I'm not trying to be stupid by any means, and I appreciate the help, this just went over my head though honestly. Though as said I appreciate the help

I have a 76' 280Z, and from what I remember, my cars temperature typically used to sit at the E on the Temp gauge. I know it's been hot as of late where I live, however I feel as though it's been running a bit hot as of late. Depending on how I'm driving the gauge will climb to closer to the end of the M on the gauge. For example if I'm driving it somewhat "hard" on the streets it will creep up, and if I'm cruising on the freeway it will go up as well. Being that my gauge used to (again from my recollection) sit relatively steady at the E. I thought my car was overheating. Naturally I started looking for causes, I ended up flushing out the radiator, replacing the thermostat, and replacing the water pump. None of these things had been done since I've owned the car, so it seemed like a better time than not, to replace them. However it's still running within the same range as per the gauge's reading. I was wondering if anyone else had their Z's running within the same temperature range? Or should I genuinely be concerned?

Ripped is more of a loose term really, it cracked, but in my mind I kind of equated it to someone ripping, say a piece of paper. Here's a pic of it though Not quite sure what caused it to start tearing like that...but it did, and then being the ultra self proclaimed genius that I am, launching the car one night seemed like a brilliant idea. which cause it to go from a small tear, to what you see there. Regardless, the more research I do the more I hear about the mustache bar's transmitting noise. I suppose that I just didn't initially expect it to be quite as obvious. However I also noticed that if I'm not particularly paying attention to it, I don't really hear it.

First and foremost the car is a 76 280z with a long nose R200, the front diff mount is still in good shape, however my stock mustache bar ripped so I had to replace it and I figured why not upgrade at the same time so I picked up the AZC bar. I put the AZC Mustache bar on my car last night, got it back on the ground and went for a drive, now I'm hearing a sort of whining noise, that gets louder as I increase in speed. It sounds to me as though the driveshaft is rubbing on the sway bar. However I'm wondering if I can just hear the differential more now because of the mustache bar. So put simply.. if anyone has any experience with aftermarket mustache bars (particularly the AZC one) did you get any increased noises after install?

Oh I agree completely, I'd much rather run an OEM one over a cheap eBay junk one. Function is essential, the car has to work, because let's face it, how cool can you look broken down on the side of the road?

While I agree it's a cosmetic modification, it does also simplify the system, that is a tad bit over complicated from the factory.

Funny, I'm in the process of doing this right now. I'm using a JSK Fuel Rail w/ Aeromotive gauge, and a Edlebrock FPR. Regardless, if you don't have the money to do it correctly the first time, then don't do it at all. As the others have suggested, get a replacement rail from a pick a part, and go from there. I understand wanting to upgrade to something better. However if you half ass it due to the lack of money, you'll regret it in the long run, and potentially run into more problems. Do it once and do it right.

Take a screwdriver and listen for the injectors cycling, just because they get power doesn't mean they work