Indey

I'm currently running these in the rear of my car. 225/50/16 16x8 +10 w/ 10mm spacer in the front. 245/40/17 17x8.5 +4 w/ 10mm spacer in the rear. It is currently at stock ride height but the tires do fit within the fender line.

You know now that they're on they're almost perfectly flush in the rear. Needless to say I'm pretty happy with the outcome. Here was the pile of stuff before the work And during the work there were of course problems. The front pass. side hard brake line snapped for no apparent reason so that got replaced as well And finally it was all said and done!

Just some more test fitting, it's almost that time... I've realized I was slightly overzealous in my tire sizing for stock body work. Oh well nothing fender flares can't fix right?

New tires.

I picked up Project Kics 10MM spacers for the front and rear, and Ichiba extended studs for the Z.

So a few months later just to add to this.. I finally ran across a few specific things about the problem. To which first off, thanks to everyone who contributed info! Now I had talked to another member about it and he of course also suggested vapor lock, and suggested that I move to 91 octane since it's less volatile, and he also suggested the webbed intake manifold that nissan came out with to replace the open runner n42 manifold that's currently on the car, in another effort to get heat away from the injectors. Then I ran across something where someone said they had the same sort of issue that I did, and they removed the filler caps rubber seal, and the problem went away. So being that I was stuck in my works parking lot today with a Z that wouldn't start, I figured, "hey what can it hurt to try?" So i removed the filler cap, and went to start the car. lo and behold, it fired up instantly. I put the filler cap back in place and drove home, where I am now. I called my mechanic and asked him about it, and he said that it's possible that an injector wasn't closing, or something to that effect, and it was allowing pressure to build in the gas tank, which would prevent the car from starting. Naturally when I released all the pressure the car was able to start again. So for a temporary fix, if this continues to work, I will be happy with it for now. However I am going to get that webbed intake manifold, since I'm going to redo my exhaust system I figured why not just put a redone already cleaned manifold on, and save myself the hassle of having to clean my own, and if it can also reduce the injector temps due to the extra webbing then great! I also figured that at the same time I would go ahead and just replace all 6 of my injectors because well. If you're going to do something, do it right. Anyways thats the current bit of my story for this problem. Hopefully people with the same problem will be able to search and find this and it can help them!

Alright so, after driving around for a while, my clutch kept going out of adjustment, so i'd consistently have to adjust it, i knew this wasn't right but nothing had broken......yet, finally one day while driving to work, it was getting harder and harder to shift, and finally i couldnt pull it out of 3rd gear. I dropped it off at the local Z shop, and got a ride to work, only later to find out, that my clutch fork had broken. Now it didn't just break once, no that'd be too simple. The point where it pivots had a hole in it, and from the hole, it split in 4 different directions. not only that, but when the trans came down, the trans mount, was split in half. SO! I had the input shaft, output shaft, and rear main seal replaced, a new throwout bearing went in, and a new trans mount found its way in, and of course a new clutch fork. I got it back, and it drove like a brand new car again, till 3 days later when in the alternator took a dump on me. I do have pics of the alternator... Out with the.....very old and in with the new! And my wheels made it back from the wheel shop! So I went and picked those up and did another test fit.

My Arizona Z Car Steering Knuckles came in today..

Alright so my wheels came in, unfortunately the fronts were a full flat black, instead of a flat black with a polished lip. Oh well they were going to have to be redone anyways right? SO here's a few pictures of random stuff, and test fitting of the wheels. Random of the car... As stated previously I had taken out the rear sound deadening, and the floor board looks rather....wavey, is this normal? and if not can anything be done about it? Monster truck oil change... 16x8 +10 Flat Black 17x8.5 +4 Gunmetal with a polished lip Fitting on the car...with the R40's Herra Frush. Now the issues =P I'm definitely going to need spacers, I plan on running a 8MM spacer all around, effectively making it a F:+2 and R:-4 Offset Rear Clearance. Front clearance...or well...lack there of clearance. And from far away to give it an overall look. Now the question I pose to you guys, does ARP make a set of extended studs for our cars? or am I going to have to go out and measure the stock studs and give them the specs so they can give me what i need.

I think some extended studs would be nice here...

So..Updates have been super slow...there should be some stuff soon though... the 16x8 +4's that I wanted are unfortunately, not in stock. So I decided to go with a slightly different set up. F: 16x8 +10 225/50/16 R: 17x8.5 +4 245/40/17 The wheels were suppose to be here last week and they're still not unfortunately, but I will have pictures of them ASAP I also picked up a set of Project Kics Neo Chrono R40's today for the wheels. And placed an order for the Arizona Z Car Bumpsteer Spacers/ Steering Knuckles. I've also spent some time digging through the bag of bolts for my del Sol, and found that the OEM 10mm Head Zinc Plated Bolts for a Honda, are the same thread pitch as the 10mm screws/bolts on a Z, and since Zinc plating resists corrosion, I spent a bit of time replacing bolts with OEM Honda ones, I'll hopefully have pictures of that as well soon. SO in the meantime here's a picture of the lugs...

My 76 280Z has the original l28 in it, it has an issue that happens somewhat randomly. Sometimes when I start it, it will act as though it's misfiring, and not hold an idle, to solve this, I generally have to hold the gas for a period of time, and it will finally "kick in" and not misfire anymore. It will also randomly die when I'm driving along, and when I restart it (If it restarts) It's doing the same misfire, and I have to hold the gas again till it runs correctly. Now the particular thing about when it does this. It generally happens when it is very hot outside. It also generally happens when I've gone somewhere and gotten back in the car relatively quickly to go somewhere else. And finally, when it does this, it throws a good deal of smoke out of the exhaust. My mechanic has been unable to recreate the problem, so he cannot figure it out. So i was wondering if anyone had ever had a similar problem with their motor Thanks in advance.

I removed some of the sound deadening from the trunks floor board, and luckily that removed a good portion of that odd goopy stuff that the previous owner had put on. I'll post some pics of that soonish....I also had the front wheel bearings replaced, and had the gas line that goes from the tank to the pump replaced, since it wanted to leak forever. And last but not least I finally placed my order for wheels today. Unfortunately they won't be in for a while...but they are a set of rota RB's 16x8 +4 in gunmetal!

I'm just rattle canning them as a temporary thing, nothing for the long run, eventually the whole car will be stripped and everything will be redone, thanks for the advice though

So the previous owner put some sort of...goopy rubberized garbage all over the car...it's going to be a lengthy process removing all of it...but I got started tonight. It started like this Then I realized the wire wheel I was using was all wrong, and it was taking me forever to get stuff done So I changed the wheel and got back to work! Then I smoothed it out with some a scotch brite pad. I'm going to paint it flat black later, once I do the other side, then I'll have to eventually get started on the trunk...which I am not looking forward to, but what can you do right?

Alright so finally here's some pictures..... My ARC brushed shift knob. I think it looks amazing, I just need a new shift boot to help it along. I also went to the junkyard and came across a decent sent of air vents, a wiper/headlamp switch which didn't work, and a decent condition ebrake boot. I should be replacing the wheel bearings soon enough. So that will be nice.

I actually ended up doing that, apparently it is interchangeable, but unfortunately the switch i found was a dead one. So I had to undo all my work oh well it happens right?

So I went to the junkyard today, and pulled the wiper/headlight switch out of a 77-78Z, I have a 76, and when I got home to swap it out, I noticed the plugs were different as seen here I was wondering if I could cut and solder the old plug onto the new wiper switch and if it would work, any help would be appreciated!

I had gotten a polished ARC shift knob for the Z without realizing at the time the current thread pitch was different for these cars. Apparently current Nissan runs a 10x1.25 which is the polished one I got, and the stock Z shifter is a 8x1.25. So I picked up ANOTHER ARC shift knob off of a friend that was parting out his car, now the question is do I keep the brushed one I just got, or swap out the thread pitch adapter on the inside, for my polished one..hrmm...

So I finally got some fusible link covers... and then took some time to touch up the terrible job someone had done painting the stock wipers previously.. and thats about it for now....

Is there any particular brand of spacer you guys are running?

Alright thanks for the help!

Are you running the spacers on all 4 corners? or just on the front? After talking to the local Z specialist and yourself, I'm planning on going with the essentially same wheel set up as you, 16x8 +10 but in gunmetal, and using ARP extended studs. Also a bit of a noob question, but are the stock wheel studs the same thread pitch as a modern nissan?

Hrm alright what kind of extended studs are you using? the previously suggested nissan quest ones? I'm thinking about just moving to ARPs.

Had you been able to get the +4 offset would the extended studs and spacers been needed though?