Crash

Also, all years of the LS6 were under rated. The '01 LS6 was rated at 385BHP but was closer to 400BHP and the '02+ LS6 was rated at 405BHP but was closer to 425BHP. Pup-cats were used on the '01 LS6 reducing the amount of power the 01 Z06 saw to the ground, and in 02 those cats were removed. In addition, the 02 had air box and maf changes that helped to increase break horse power. There are reported consumption issues with the '01 LS6, and the valves are different from the '02+ LS6 in that the valves in the 02+ are sodium filled to make them lighter. The 243 heads between the 01 and 02 shouldn't be mixed unless the valve train is being replaced all-together. Just a little extra info.

We weighed an LQ4 and it was actually only 60Lbs heavier. It was pretty much the difference between an LT1 block and an LS1 block. (when you're not weighing the manifolds and stuff.)

HAHA... Wicked, your car's not getting any love! J/K. When I'm feeling better, you best get that car over here and give me a ride!

60Lbs is just about right. The big difference is the iron block. Also, there's a bit more vacuum sensors and random computer crap on the LT1s. LS1s are a bit more simple. In addition, the stock LS1 intake manifold is quite light (being simple and made out of composite plastics) compared to the LT1s aluminum plenum setup.

http://www.wencodriveshafts.com/index.html <--- The best drive shafts around Los Angeles, but I don't know about Maryland. But you can give Wenco a call or email them to find out what they charge. If you get a good enough deal, you can have it sent to you.

I think you can expect a custom shaft to be around $300-450...

^^^ I agree... Cutting some of the firewall out is the best way to alleviate pretty much all other issues. I'm going to have my exhaust guy look at my setup and find out how much custom headers are going cost to make. He also says he may have an LS1/trans for me as well, so I may be getting my project started in a couple weeks! I've got a lot of stuff going on right now, so I have no weekends right now. But if at all possible, after next weekend, I would like to start pulling the motor out of the car, prepping and cleaning the engine bay, and stripping the interior.

You still may not have to cut the firewall for the M6. It does look like the McLeod bellhousing would clear the tunnel with a little bit of hammer influence. The HVAC stuff just at the end of the firewall and tunnel will either have to be removed or relocated. I haven't pulled my interior apart yet so I don't know how much of it needs to be (re)moved, but I plan to - if I can - keep the AC. I don't want to buy an aftermarket AC system because the I won't be able to use the automatic and OEM AC controls in my Z32 (which is something I really like both looks wise and functionality wise). Worst case scenario, I will have to relocate a lot of the other stuff under the dash that doesn't HAVE to be in the center of the dash to the right and move the HVAC up. I already have to change the plumming for the heater core so, this obviously is going to require a lot of planning once all the dash components are removed from the firewall, and then you have to be able to put the dash back on! LOL (Unless you want to go full weight reduction... )

^^^ Exactly. Technically, you'd still be able to bolt a standard T56 to the Vette LSx, but the Vette's version of the T56 has a completely different input shaft since there's a torque tube the runs from the engine to the transmission. (Like a long driveshaft) The site worded it wrong. It's not the LS1 from the vette it won't work for, it's the vette's trans. You can bolt a F-Body T56 to a corvette LS1. The real differences between the Vette LS1 and the rest is the pullie setup. The Vette's pullies are arranged differently and are actually closer to the motor. They did this because of the space restrictions. However, in the case of our swaps, the F-Body/GTO pullie setup is better for us because the Vette's alternator location would cause a problem for closing the hood.

I totally agree. But I was just looking at it from a conversion point of view. LQ9's are generally N/A motors. But you're absolutely right that FI applications see much more HP gains.

Technically, because you make more power with E85, the MPG difference is actually not quite much when properly tuned. More power means less throttle from stop'n'go scenarios. As well, the engine works less to achieve the same goal while cruising at freeway speeds to defeat friction/drag. Therefore, again, less gas usage. Recent tests for E85 have shown that in comparison with the 25%-30% drop in MPG before with E85, a properly tuned car will only see a 4%-5% drop in MPG.... In other words, instead of 21MPG, you may see 20MPG. That alone will show that you do save money with E85 and the distance you get to the tank is going to be no more than 20 miles less... With a 20 gallon tank you'd see: 91 Octane (20x21) 420 Miles to the tank at a cost of ($2.40 x 20) $48.00 E85 (20x20) 400 Miles to the tank at a cost of ($2.06 x 20gal) $41.20 Savings: $6.80 (On average, E85 costs 14% less than normal pump gas) Comparatively speaking, that's close enough that you likely wouldn't care about that extra 20 miles when you've saved nearly the cost of 3 gallons of 91. As an example of proper E85 tuning, see the Ford Flex. Gas/E85 pricing: http://e85prices.com/california.html

Top Fuel cars run Alcohol. E85 has better potential of making more power as well as it burns cooler. But it still has too many problems. On basic tune in the summer, E85 will make 5% more HP than 91-93 Pump Gas. The E85 has a longer burn time than gasoline as well allowing the piston travel to be pushed longer during combustion providing more torque. The compression can be raised (on some applications as high as 14:1) because the Octane rating for E85 is 105 (106 in some areas) and thus making more power. If tuned and the heads are setup for E85 only, the car can make 15% more power. Again, I still don't think E85 is a good answer for anything other than drag racing, though. (Sorry if something didn't make sense. I've had a bit to drink.)

OMG! I would have bought that in a heart beat! I would've sent a deposit just to make sure of it!!!

PM sent.

E85 is a summer blend fuel. If you run it and tune for it, you'll have to retune during the cold seasons. There's issues starting a cold motor with E85 so they change the mix to E75 when it gets cold. Since the 80s most fuel lines have no problem handling the E85. Since the early 90's, they'd been talking about increasing the 10% to 20% in normal gasoline, so if your lines are from the 90's, you'll be fine. The biggest issue is how much you drive your car. If you daily drive your car and drive a lot, E85 is fine with or without the water issue. However, if E85 sits a while in your tank, it will collect too much water. That being said, E85 is not for garage whores.