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About jmak

  • Birthday 01/03/1990

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    San Diego, CA

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  1. Hello, I'm looking for a Mass Air Flow sensor for a N/A 1983 280zx in working condition. Please let me know what you have thanks. -Mike
  2. Looking for side skirts for s130. 2 seater. Located SoCal and can pick up
  3. Since I retro fitted s13 full coilovers on the car (including replacing the knuckles, ball joints etc.) Im having problems with my front camber. They are way too positive even though the top camber plates are fully negative. I've done some searching before and saw that a member here modded his arms by extending them. He added a custom metal plate and just drill holes for the maxima ball joints to fit. Now I cant find who did it but saved the pics he posted.(Ill post later) If anyone can help, solutions, advise or can make custom ones will be appreciated. Let me know, never seen so much positive tire wear happen to fast.
  4. half an inch, the chassis rails underneath the car and the down pipe. I was also planning on extending the lower control arms
  5. Haha yeah but I think yours is more fckd up then mine. Thanks for the advise, I'll do more research or customize up something. 205/50 came with the wheels already all around. Slapped on 195/60 in the rear temporary since they were getting bald. Still stuck on what size to run for sure
  6. @PurePontiacKid Dont get me wrong but your car is pretty dope. Yeah the PBM coils go lower I just went half way, the first time I put them on the rear wheels werent touching the floor lol. right now is okey, wanted to go lower but the chassis is .5" off the ground. The other problem im running into is the front camber, need to customize a lower control arms since the camber plates are maxed out. and I need to cut into the metal piece where the lower control arm is hitting.
  7. Updates! http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/100840-daily-s130-progress/
  8. Heres an update but still needs a long way till it will be finished! Upcoming projects: Paint, wheels, fix camber 1983 Datsun 280zx N/A GL 139,xxx original miles 5 speed Daily driven Goods: All Fluid recently changed (oil, tranny, diff, coolant, brakes) New front brakes (pad and rotors) New Radiator w/ electrical fan Optima red top battery Rear brakes still good Retrofitted 240sx front knuckles Replaced ball joints, outer tie rods, sway bar bushings, strut rod bushings, rack and pinion boots S13 PBM coilovers Interior has both seats, rear is gutted Uncracked black dash Digital Cluster Momo Hub and Monte Carlo wheel Working power windows T-tops 15x8 -30ish? Eagle wheels Euro H4 lamps 6k HIDs Cons: Has minor rust spots at t-top and surface rust inside engine bay fenders No radio Needs new paint job Heres just a couple of pics I found on the computer...
  9. A lot actually just never updated it, since your interested i think ill update soon, its been daily driven lately so hopefully now i have time to post
  10. still cannot get it out do i need to take out the heat shield behind the intake mani?
  11. so im currently trying to remove the intake manifold but im stuck. i know maybe someone already post something but i tried the search bar but no luck. anyways i've disconnected all vaccum hoses then fuel lines w/ rail and removed 4 top bolts holding the manifold. I read that there are more, but i cant see any. is it cuz the heat shield or what? thanks sorry for the long post.
  12. oh i know. im just showing how deep the lip is. the wheels specs are exactly what were ordered as. 15x8 with a -30 offset. when we lower the car, we're looking into new rims cus we know we will have poke and rub so about the same as evergreen planning to get some 16x8 with +10 offset
  13. bump for '83zx parts thanks for the replies guys. once again, we are looking for: - '83 tail lights or any that fit, (dont want the lines going through them) - passenger side mirror with working motor - 2 trunk dampers(shocks) that hold up the hatch. please and thank you guys.
  14. day 3: seafoam and oil change. like most people who seafoamed their car, cars performance increased, revs idling and everything was smooth after. when performing the seafoam, we did the standard cleaning, 1/3 in gas tank for fuel injector clean, 1/3 in oil crank case, and the rest sucked into the intake mani via the brake booster hose. when being sucked into the vacuum line, the car died, which was normal procedure. just pour rest of teh contents down into the hose into the manifold. then connect the hose again, and restart the car. we were constant revving to get the seafoam circulating through the car's gas, oil, manifold, etc.. while holding the throttle plate tons and tons of white smoke was pouring out of the tail pipe. super carbon build up. recommend using multiple fans or a blower to blow out the smoke so neighbors dont think its a fire. then we drove it around a bit and flooring it everynow and then for WOT wide open throttle to get it out of the system. then we let it cool down before we did our oil change. old filter and new oil and filter. ugly fram. dont worry, thats just for a first oil change. we will be switching to full synthetic and a better filter after this. previous owner didnt do much oil changes we're guessing, we were running on really really low oil. day 4: engine clean and dressup so much rust and oxidation and stuff, we decided to spray the whole engine down with some engine degreaser. we covered all the electrical stuff such as distributer, alternator, and took out battery. sprayed the whole engine bay with some foamy degreaser and let it settle. then we hosed it down with a garden hose. not much difference but the grease and grime were definitely broken down. so we decided to polish the head and hoses and lines. we changed all the rusty screw clamps to stainless steel t-clamps. changed the rusty strut nuts into stainless steel ones, and polished the rest. before: after: with the fram filter polished copper line and head.
  15. lol we're running on 15x8 -30mm offset with 205/50/15 tires. haha hella deep dish. planning on lowering but we're looking around for good coilover setup. heres pix.
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