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About KF_Colt

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  1. Hey y'all, I have a 1981 280zx NA that I slapped a turbo and carb onto in a blow through setup. I'm using a Holley 350 street avenger with nitrophyl floats, main jet extensions, manual secondaries etc. My question is, I have a fuel pump that puts out 7 - 10 psi at 30 GPH, and a FPR that is not boost referenced from a Holley 12-803 that limits between 4 1/2 and 9 psi. Can I keep this fpr and not have to buy a new one? I'm absolutely fine with running more rich to sacrifice power but being safe. I haven't changed out the Jets at all and don't want to run it until I know the answer. Running about 6 - 7 psi of boost
  2. Found the issue, and thank you for the straight forward answer
  3. Found the Issue! Was a combination of my toothed wheel being offset (not by much), the VR sensor not being close enough (although i never got the infamous "missing teeth" error), the fuel pressure regulator being shot, and most importantly... bad gas. I emptied the tank after putting in treatment and wow was it brown, I'm going to need to treat the tank. But you also were right with the VE table, I havent tweaked it that much because I just wanted at the least a shite idle. Thank you both for the help!
  4. Yeah I have MS2 and Ford EDIS working.
  5. I installed supra black top 430cc injectors on my stock fuel rail for the 1981 280zx. The car would start at times but most of the time wont. When I first attempt a start it gets very close to starting but bogs out. I took out the plugs and they have a small amount of black liquid on them, and smell very faintly of gas (not as much as i would think however). Do I need to install an aftermarket fuel rail to adjust the angle at which the new injectors spray? because these new ones are four port on the end not the single port the stock injectors have.
  6. I took the red 12v wire that previously went to the 280zx's ECU, put a 1k resistor on it, then a 2 amp fuse. That wire then fed into pin 28 on the DB37 connector as it should. When the ECU is not plugged in and the car is on, the red wire gets 12V. However, when the ECU is plugged in, I end up getting 0.06 volts (this is checked at the pin coming off the female DB37 connector on the boards bottom side). I used the stock 280zx ECU grounds for the megasquirt grounds, with one unused MS ground remaining, of which i made my own ground point to the engine block. All sensors connecting to MS are unplugged. The injectors send 12V in the pins 32 to 35, the daughtercard is out, and I took out D10 to see if anyplace after U5 was leaking the power somehow. D10 before I took it out still had only 0.06V to both ends. Voltage to C15 is also 0.06 - 0.07V on both ends, and I dont have a C30 installed. Left pin on U5 (when D10 was in) was same as D10, so no burnt trace. Even if the board was fried i figure that I would atleast get the voltage from the stock red wire.
  7. 1981 280zx NA manual trans. Currently hooking up a Megasquirt 2 v3.0 PCB to my l28e (which I just did a turbo install from NA). I have 440 cc black tops that I believe originally fit the mk I or II Supra. They are low impendence. I want to just use the PWM mode on MS2 at around 30% like the MS manual states is good. But I don't know how to wire the 6 injectors to the pins. The original 280zx ECU has pins for each individual injectors, so not sure how to handle the 4 pins allotted on MS2. Again, I don't want to get resistors or some "peak and hold module" (stated in MS2 hardware manual) if I don't have too. Do you have 3 banks of 2? For cylinder pairs (1,6), (5,2), and (3,4)? *Final note: I'm using this car as a learning experience, I understand how unethical it is to turbo a NA L28e instead of getting the L28et for dirt cheap. I picked it up for a grand and so far it has taught me a whole lot. Thank you all.
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