Phib
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Posts posted by Phib
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11 hours ago, JMortensen said:
Sure. Relatively slow speed, say 30 or 35 mph. 4th gear with clutch in and floor it. When the engine gets up to ~5000 rpm, dump the clutch. The rpms should immediately fall to 1500 or whatever it would be at that speed. If it comes down slowly, your clutch is slipping.
I will drive the car this week end and will let you know.
4 hours ago, HuD 91gt said:Didn’t have time to search. This thread looks relevent.
https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58235-trans-id-help/
I looked at it. Looks like a do have a standard 5 speed with the 2 ears. Looks like a wide or normal ratio 5 speed.
but which collar to get? Hehe
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1 hour ago, HuD 91gt said:
There is many different sized collars, the only way to know if you have the right one is to measure. Either this forum or classicZcar has a thread about throwout bearing collars.
Any links?
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Hello all, ty for the response. Can you please clarify the slip test clutch? I from what i know that i can put the car in high gear and do WOt and check for slippage/ can you please clarify your test.
btw the accelerator being stuck is from the carpet.
I drove the car today, it’s fine with normal driving. Didn't feel any judder or slippage on low rpms or load.
i didn’t do WOt Coz i wasn't sure of the steps you wanted me to do. Sorry, it’s unclear to me.
I called exedy, and offcourse they are saying i need to break in the clutch first before anything so far i did put atleast 300 miles. They are telling me to do more, and it has to be no Wot and not that much load.
The clutch i bought is rated to 221 ft lbs. I’m not sure of where i’m at that power.
the collar In the pix is the one i used. Basing on this kit, this is the right one, but who knows if it isnt.
I have to look and see if there is play between the fork and the bearing. So you’re saying there should be play?
Any words on the proper clutch collar? I bought the clutch collar and bearing from motorsport auto. Thinking maybe the bearing is a culprit.
I can’t remember anymore how I installed it, I'm for sure i did put the clutch correctly.
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Need help diagnosing. Car is a 260z with l28 5 speed, triple Sk.
So I have changed my clutch and flywheel.
fidanza aluminum flywheel
exedy stage 1 organic clutch 225mm
Sachs slave cylinder.
After breaking the clutch in, 1st gear 3k load WOT, my clutch slipped and my accelerator got stuck and the rpm reved to 8k rpm and had to turn the car off then then the accelerator went back. This happened before as well henced I changed the clutch and flywheel.
attached are pictures of tranny, items and the clutch collar i had from before and also the tranny with 2 tabs.
First not sure why the accelerator gets stuck then comes back normal, but i had to turn the engine off.
Second, the clutch slipped during Load.
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Hello fellas, so i was able to put the fuel float level to specs.
So i have synced the carbs, how ever one of my carbs i think is bad.
On the same carb reads 4 then 5.
any guess what’s the problem?
next is im thinking of rebuilding the sk carburetors. I have an sk 45mm. I think it’s Chokeless.
Which kit should i buy? found this link http://lupinusflower.ocnk.net/product/20
Thank you.
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This is what i’ll adjust right? What is clockwise and counter clock wise?
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Leon, you got me lost starting removing float covers.
how ever i use this oer sight tool. I placed the in specs with sk/oer of 29-31.
I noticed my exhaust burning my eyes afterwards, and my engine temps getting higher and now my engine overheating. So i might have to revert back.
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So i got the fuel level sight tool pipette. Whats the steps or process to make? Do i have to start the engine or i can just put it on ignition.?
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Cool,
Once I receive the jets and tool. I’ll update you guys.. thanks Leon, Ryan And Joe king. Very informative.
I may have to reach to you all in a week.
What do you guys recommend for wideband?
Im still checking my Afrs via tail pipe.
Is there a kit I can purchase?
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2 hours ago, Leon said:
Interesting, I'm not familiar with that naming convention. If we assume that the 50 is the fuel orifice and 100 is air, I'm surprised at how soggy your cruise is. How many progressive holes do these carbs have?
Do you have pin gauges or some way of measuring small orifices? Drill bits could be a good substitute, double-check with a caliper. See if you can measure the hole diameter in the idle jet (part with 50/100 engraved in it) as well as your progression holes.
Also measure your float level using Keith's method and let us know what you get.
Im going to get more info about that when i get home.. btw, where can I buy a float tool or the optical fuel gauge seen kn kieths guide?
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Leon my afr during idle bounces from 13.5-14
attached is my idle jet, it says 50/100.
ill try to read the white paper and get more info..
i think they are weber jets.
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Hello folks,
I searched and there is really not much info in regards with these carbs.
i picked up a set of these carbs. Installed the triple and tuned. Here is current setup.
E88 l28
N42
Cams
triple sk carbs 45
170 air
130 main f9
50 idle jet
45 accelerator pump jet
The problem is im running rich during cruising, yet in wot my afr is good and when leaning of coarse it's fine.
I believe only when cruising, in which my afr is like 10.5-11.
The car feels good, but it just im like i need to gas up everytime.
Do you guys know or any tips i can solve this problem?
Clutch still slipping after Install.
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
Update: So I changed the clutch collar and bearing to the correct one. I compared the clutch collars and it seems to be about the same.
So far no problems going through gears. I am testing it tom Am for slippage.