Jump to content
HybridZ

jvandyke

Members
  • Posts

    78
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Posts posted by jvandyke

  1. Well I just nipped off that corner problem solved.  I used energy suspension bushings, seemed fine.  10 Mile Test Drive then back on the lift for torque check, No issues no noises not even spraining oil out the vent, yet. 1 million thanks to all of you for your sage advice. Ended up spending about 250 for the R 200 bar, bushings technoversion‘s front mount gasket oil, not too bad.EA6A0620-AE08-4B5F-BE3A-1EC1FBBD98EB.jpeg.82dbe4e85a7b1b750daa443ca6fe3633.jpeg

    • Like 1
  2. I've looked long but am still foggy, sorry, I assume that when installing the R200 in a 240 you need to install the mustache bar as it is in the 280, that is with the bar coming off the backside of the bushing mounts and running behind the suspension uprights, as in the the top picture NOT the R180 mounting which is bottom pic?  So I get to take the whole rear end out (or at least a healthy chunk of it)

    mustache280zway.jpg.75f42b27e78774a93288e628ac20d49a.jpgmustacheR180way.jpg.dee65e2c7350c04cf3849d62df049638.jpg

    I found this guy and was able to put the top plate, top half of bushing onto the bolt (stuck with grease to hold it up there) and push the bushing's tube back down a ways, then I could sneak the bar on without taking other pieces off,  well I did undo the sway bar, I should be able to reassemble the bushings with the bar in place

  3. back home with the Florida R200, it looks like the pinion shaft flange will work, I'm waiting on the Technoversions mount and wondering about the mustache bar bushings, should be replaced I think, source?

    I'm still foggy on the half shafts, I think I do need those off a 280 don't I?  the R200 is about and inch wider than the R180 so don't I need shorter half shafts? and a rear cover gasket, should get that.......

  4. 1 minute ago, AydinZ71 said:

    Yep that’s a 3.545. You can swap in another r180, got nothing to lose! The only time I destroyed my spider gears in my R200 is from “rocking” between on-and-off throttle too quickly. The driveline inertia cause the crunch, not the torque. 
     

    Question: don’t you struggle with traction issues? I was sliding all over the place with 300ft-lbs of torque. 

    yep! kinda fun

  5. 2 hours ago, AydinZ71 said:

    @jvandyke 

     

    1) you already have the curved tranverse link mount. Check. No need to change that.

     

    2) yes, the mustache bar is the bar that mounts to the rear cover of your diff. R200 has wider mounting stud spacing. The right bar comes from a 280z. 
     

    3) in your last picture, your front transverse link mount/crossmember has been removed. You need to eventually put it back but remove the actual diff mount attached to it (the rubber/steel brick with the stud molded into it). You will be using the top-mount from the RT kit.

     

    4) double-check the forums if you need a 280z driveshaft as well. I thought the r180 vs r200 driveshafts where slightly different lengths and/or yoke mounting bolt pattern but I could be totally wrong. 

     

     

    alright ,we're getting somewhere,

    2) I may have to buy the ebay one mentioned then (or can you weld a plate over the old holes and redrill?)

    3) yes, I removed the diff with front mount still on it

    4) the driveshaft is custom of course, since it's a 350 but I can get that modified if needed

  6. okay the busted R180 was a 3.54 as well, I think as per this picture of ring gear numbers:

    r180ringgearnumbers.jpg.ac73a15ce66dde9081d75bee9f8eb534.jpg

    this car was assembled in 1995 and it lasted that long, with lots of drag racing slips (from PO) to prove it was beaten on, so that's one that went for a while anyway, it doesn't look like it was swapped before, at least to my eye

  7. okay, gotta get my terms straight; the "rear transverse link mount" on our '72 is already curved, is this sufficient? (top pic)

    and the differential case mounting bar (aka "mustache bar", you called it "diff mount" above?) (middle pic) needs to be replaced?  As per the ebay link above?  Is that the best way to go for one of those? and I think I agree, the technoversions diff mount (front) is a good idea.

    Last pic for overall reference

    reartransverselinkmount.jpg.d7e5ba5213bdda668d54f01af07aa816.jpg

    differentialcasemountingbar.jpg.2d2a268da2d8808b39c4a01c3c3cdd2e.jpg

    emptyrear.jpg.76578017e46f786a9033014d973454af.jpg

     

  8. there's a R200 available in Cincinnati,

    https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/453259465957942/?referralSurface=messenger_lightspeed_banner&referralCode=messenger_banner

    which I'll be driving past this weekend, I could snag that and then source the other bits (mustache bar here?

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/223539776365?fits=Model%3A240Z&hash=item340c024b6d:g:EpAAAOSw76hZjaqt or better source?

    Then I still need a few more bits.  I could just pop another R180 in there too I guess.......

  9. looking for R200 to replace the R180 I recently trashed.  Still learning but the move to the R200 involves mustache bar and front mount I believe, would like to source all at once if possible, LSD or not, whatever, it's just a weekend toy so not too worried about it, might just put another R180 in there, last one lasted 25 years so can do again, so any working diff considered, looking to spend from $200 to $1000.

×
×
  • Create New...