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About pete6583

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    Durango, CO
  1. The engine was running when I got the car. Completely disassembled (except the head). Machinist said cylinders still had factory cross-hatching, and head looked recently rebuilt. Rebuilt engine with new bearings, rings, seal, gaskets, hoses, timing chain kit, ss bolts. I have no other info on the car or the engine. I'm waffling on new cam or have the machinist helicoil. He's got almost 50 years experience and thinks it will be just fine... New cam means new lifters and springs as well to do it right... Thanks for your thoughts and the information! r
  2. grannyknot, is there a way to check the bolt? Also, Helicoil the end of the cam, or new cam? Not sure which is best. Which brings me back to my original concern, could something else be creating this issue? thanks!
  3. zbloke, great idea, but the threads in the cam as so trashed, I'm pretty sure it won't tighten now if I tried... However, The sprocket wouldn't "wiggle" after it was torqued down, not that the tolerances we are discussing could be felt by hand... Thanks!
  4. Yes, the sprocket was sitting flush on the cam and the pin was seated completely in the #1 hole...
  5. Help! I'm in the final stages of rebuilding a 72' 240Z. The Cam timing sprocket bolt has now come loose for the second time. The first time I pulled the head and had two valves replaced. (Also got a good bit of hazing about proper torque...) Replaced everything and torqued the cam bolt to 105 ft/lbs. Two short test drives, everything just fine. First longer drive, she stopped running about two miles out and when towed home, the cam bolt has loosened again. (Cam stopped spinning, pinged the top of several pistons, now need to remove the head and get valves inspected/replaced... a
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