silverado22c

Sounds good, Newguy. I myself have a 1975 280z, but I'm just going to run with the bumpers off. Many people buy brackets and install 240z bumpers, if they really want something on their 280z. But they also have fill in pieces, to weld into the rear, where the bumper components went thru the body, from Skillard. ZCON, is a national convention of Z cars, to be held here in Nashville this year, Sept. 14-19th. You can get more info at zcon.org. Basically car shows, auto cross and track days at NCM, driving tours to different locations, and tours of the Nissan plant. It changes cities every year, but just happens to be here around the Nashville area. I lucked out with my car compared to most here, having bought it in 2010 for only $1000, with no rust that I can tell of, being a California car. Mine sat for a long time, with a broken right passenger window, but they had 1 for it. And they sold the driver seat. But as I am doing autocross, I didn't mind the disgusting carpet or oxidized paint. So hope you eventually find 1 that suits your needs and level. Prices seem to always be going up, but maybe you can find that 1 granny selling her car or some estate just wanting to get rid of one.

Originally from California, but reside in Nashville area, for the last few years. So if your ever in the area, say hello. You might want to head to ZCON, this September, unless they push it back due to the COVID-19. That way you can see Z's of types and get more ideas. I too am setting up my vehicle, for SCCA and other small racing. I am one who is stripping out and shedding parts that make it lighter, to be geared more towards the track then being comfortable on the street. Gonna be paying more, the nicer a vehicle is, inside and out, but you understand that. So if you are not looking to do much with the engine, depends if you want to deal with carbs or fuel injection. 280z if want fuel injection or go older if want carbs, but it also depends if the previous owner swapped out engines or other components to suit their needs. As with rust and suspension/steering/chassis, I am not an expert when it comes to Datsuns, but I was a technician for Jaguar and Land Rover, so I have a good understanding with cars. Rust repairs is about time and money, if you have it. There are a fair amount of panels for these vehicles, from the post I've seen. But it is on you, if you want to take on the repairs or farm it out, if you are not confidant welding. If wanting specifics on some things as suspension, I've seen a few show their knowledge here. Just depends on how stiff or soft you want to go. The amount you are willing to pay. Or if just replacing the stock struts. If looking to replace worn items with decent parts, take a look at rockauto.com. If wanting to upgrade somewhat over stock, take a look at zcarparts.com, which is the website for Motorsports Auto. Or zcardepot.com or the 100's of others out there, that specialize in certain aspects of the z cars. Zcarsource.com is more for stock/used parts. So in the end, depends on the vehicle you buy and what exactly you want out of it. Some here may be purest and return it to stock, others may restomod their Z, I on the other hand can care less about the looks and looking to have a fun SCCA/Track car.

The FAST EZ system from Zcardepot only uses the 1 coolant sensor in their kit, not the 3 like factory. Newzed, your info relates more to stock set up, not the EZ set up that uses GM parts. Like I said before, repair that exhaust leak 1st, as the O2 sensor is the major component used to allow for proper self tuning by the EZ ECU. Also look up YouTube videos of the EZ system that had been installed to Datsuns and one of those videos shows the base settings they used instead of FAST initial numbers, where they had the same rich issue as you. Most of the coolant sensors are on the ignition control side, to change timing at certain temp levels, either cold start or like at the 100 degree level. The single pin is for temp gauge, large sensor under that is for cold start, smaller coolant is for warm up feed back, and the grounded coolant sensor on the side is for timing adjustment at warm up. So ignition side coolant sensors stay and fuel side goes with EZ kit install, I believe. At least this is what I see for the 1975 280Z, I don't know what the system differences are for your 1983.

Well, that kit is self tuning from the beginning, so that leak can be a major cause of your issues. I have seen other videos on YouTube about setting the base numbers to something different to have better idle and running conditions. You would be surprised how small of an exhaust leak can lead to setting codes in modern vehicles, as I removed many from Range Rovers during a major recall. They would be hairline cracks that you could barely see, but the O2 levels would be effected. So get that exhaust fixed and play with the base tune.

I don't have the kit, but I think you disconnected more items than you are supposed to. The FAST EZ is supposed replace the fuel related side, not the ignition side. I believe you should not disconnect the oil pressure sensor, as that is tied into the ignition harness. Same goes with the connector to the dizzy. Have you or someone pulled the harness apart and swapped the routing at a previous time? Take the oil pressure and dizzy connector out of the fuel harness and run back to their locations. Also wondering if you set up the O2 sensor required in the system.

PM sent

Ean, yes they are a bit pricey, but well worth the final result. Like you said, that you head thru that way, doesn't hurt to stop in and see 1st hand the results of others vehicles.

I no longer live in California, but I would recommend Jake Tomlinson & Company, out of Auburn, Ca. When I lived in California, I sent both my dad and aunts vehicles there. To go along with the vast amount which were referred during my time at Land Rover Rocklin. For years, we would send vehicles to Jake's, even though the Niello company had its own body shop. Might be a bit further than you are wanting, but would not be disappointed in the results.

Hey Ken. I'm on vacation and will be back Jan. 8th. So I can let you know then about the shipping rate. I think the heat shield might have surface rust, but is in good shape. There might be a picture of it, but I'll send new pics when I get back.

Sent you a PM, working on a box and shipping quote for you

post bump

Check the exhaust manifold as you put it back on, just to make sure you don't have a crack

Really need someone on the forum who has dealt with the front suspension to speak up, as I have not. I am wondering, as the poly bushings simply fit in the control arm only being spaced by a sleeve, if the fitment needs to be tight for the stock style bushings? You state the new and old bushings slide thru, which should not occur with pressed in style bushings. I the spacing excessive or close enough where you really need to push the bushing thru. On second thought about the polys, it looks like that step up is a lip to keep the control arms centered. I'm thinking really your cheapest way to move forward would be poly bushings. As you don't know if new stock style will be slightly larger to fit correctly or will be the same and slide thru. Then it is cost prohibitive to go with other control arms.

Can you post more pictures? wide view of all the parts removed, close up of others. Much easier to view something, then trying to diagnose by what someone says. Not trying to be an ass, just was frustrating when customers would only state what they think was wrong, but would never ride along with us technicians to better express what they heard or felt.

Could you possibly have a brake booster that is leaking brake fluid, getting pulled into the vacuum port that is close to the rear cylinders?